6/20/2021 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 6/21/2021, By: artemavovk Info: Similar conditions to last report, but adding a few more photos. Trail completely clear to the lake; creek water level is high so bring spare dry socks. One inconsequential snow section right before the campsites. Clear trail up to Daly saddle (Daly ascent has one avoidable snow patch) From saddle to K2 is probably the worst section - 80% of the talus is covered with snow. In the morning (~4AM) the snow is mostly supportive and microspikes are enough to feel safe. As mentioned in the previous report, route around K2 is covered with snow - going over the top is the safest option at this point. Past that - summer conditions. Coming down is, arguably, harder as the snow from K2 to Daly saddle turns into mush (~8AM) with many spots that will swallow you completely (but also fun glissading options too). It is safer to descend lower than standard route to avoid steep mushy gullies (I took out the ice axe and it was definitely needed). |
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6/13/2021 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 6/14/2021, By: Zach Eiten Info: Trail is completely clear except for a few small patches of snow between leaving the forest and gaining the hill with the campsites, but it won't last long. About 75% of the campsites are snow free with melting snow drifts in the others. The snow level is around the campsites/ lake but won't be for long. Large patches without snow exist. On route, a few small patches of snow cover the trail going up to the Mt. Daly saddle which cause slight navigational annoyance following the trail on the dark, but they probably will be gone by next weekend. After the Mt. Daly saddle, the first two little semi-technical gullies are full or partially full of knife hard snow in the morning. We didn't bring crampons and our toes hurt in the morning getting across with some crafty axe work. My partner has micro spikes and they were perfect. Snow was soft for the return voyage though. Almost entirely continuous snow with small suncups to K2. Pretty nice conditions for fast movement. K2 was snow capped. The walk around the the right is vertical hard snow. As of now was accessed the summit of K2 by climbing the class 4 rock on the left and hugging the groove between snow and rock. We down climbed from the summit of K2. The rest of the route is almost entirely snow free aside from a couple of easily avoidable snow patches but they are melting fast. |
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3/1/2021 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 3/3/2021, By: SnowAlien Info: Lookin' snowy. We had a bit of trouble getting to K2. Feel free to contact me with specific questions. |
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10/20/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 10/21/2020, By: timewarp01 Info: Route is completely snow free except for some easily avoidable patches before K2 and on the ledges below Capitol's summit. Very high wind on the knife edge made it even more interesting. Intended to take the summit ridge direct after the knife, but ended up bailing onto the standard route due to the wind. Otherwise perfect weather, nobody else on the mountain. |
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10/10/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 10/12/2020, By: Lordofthegnar Info: No clue how much snow Cap got on Sunday but conditions were 99.99% dry on Sat 10/10/2020. I went up and over K2 and there was a little bit of frozen snow at the base when ascending, but easily avoidable. Likewise there was some snow and ice in the middle of some of the cairned paths through the talus section. Speaking of, holy smokes, no one gives the talus section enough cred - that part sucks. Multiple cairned paths at different latitudes through it...I wanted to kill myself coming back through it. Save some energy for that for sure. Really awesome hike though. Absolutely stunning virtually the entire time. |
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10/3/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 10/5/2020, By: Wish I lived in CO Info: Summited on Saturday (3rd). The route is 100% dry, with the only exception being there is some snow for the bypass around K2 (some by-passers who took it reported that way to be "sketch") - but the option up and down K2 (which is a better choice anyway) is all dry. Regarding weather, was essentially perfect - clear and only moderately cooler than summer; forecast through Thurs. is the same as what was experienced, with some moderate cooling and moderate chances of snow starting over the weekend. Fall colors were at peak on Saturday, but should last nicely for at least a week. Get it now if you want it! |
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10/1/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 10/4/2020, By: Peak200 Info: Summited on Thursday. Only one tiny amount of snow on the north side of K2. Otherwise dry. Weather was perfect dry and little wind. Our group only saw one other person on the peak All day . Capital is as hard as most people say it Is. The knife edge is very nerve wracking but doable. Route finding around K2 and after the knife edge is the key to sumitting |
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9/26/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge from Snowmass TH Moon Lake Approac Posted On: 9/28/2020, By: jryor121 Info: Started at the Snowmass TH. After a 6 mile bushwhack off the Snowmass to Capitol trail (which includes an immediate barefoot river crossing) through trees, mud, avalanche debris, and much else, you arrive at moon lake. From moon lake you continue towards the Daly saddle and eventually catch up to the standard trail past the gullies coming down from the saddle. The route had 1 mandatory snowfield crossing There's 3 different snow tracks on the route. Do not take the highest up track, it'll put you into more trouble. The lower 2 tracks are the correct route. From there everything else is snow free, and the trip is very standard. Even with the hard 25 mph winds, I was still able to walk across the overhyped knife edge on my way up to the summit. I would only recommend this approach if you really enjoy a strenuous and very not straightforward off trail route full of decision making. https://www.strava.com/activities/4116755804 |
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9/26/2020 Route: Ridge direct, modified Posted On: 9/27/2020, By: Gandalf69 Info: Went up from saddle, skirted cliffs but didn't go on top of ridge. A bit sketchy in spots. Not sure how much time I saved but was fun scrambling. Route is dry, snowfields are totally available in basin. Fall colors are in. |
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9/24/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/25/2020, By: PikaSteve Info: Most recent snow has mostly melted from standard route. All remaining snow can be easily avoided except for north facing slope of K2 “easiest wayâ€. For K2 downclimb, you can angle right to meet up with “easiest way†at prominent cairn where bypass crosses from north facing slope to west facing slope. Two snow patches highlight the end of the upper east face; you can keep your feet on solid rock, but the snow gives a good beacon for the route to the notch in the ridge line. See recent helpful trip report from SpringsDuke for more advice on which of many sets of cairns to choose from. Smoke staying north, fall colors, blue skies, no wind and climbing challenges all made for a wonderful backpacking and climbing trip in spite of the long, strenuous summit day. When she's not busy maintaining the excellent trail to Capitol Lake, the ranger is checking to make sure that all backpackers have a bear canister. |
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9/18/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/19/2020, By: Cereal Info: Dry/summer conditions with two exceptions: - the small snowfields as you traverse south after the saddle (see photo 12 of route description)… we used microspikes on one of them because it was dark, but on our descent we realized the snow could be crossed easily below it - the "easiest way around K2" to the west has snow on it, but we went up and over K2 on ascent and descent to avoid this Thus, you can leave the spikes at home. |
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9/13/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/14/2020, By: jahselassie Info: We stayed on the ridge the entire way to the summit from the saddle of Daly. Wet feet and slick rock. |
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9/4/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/4/2020, By: mickknu16 Info: Bluebird and quiet day on Cap. Snow patch to the side of K2 still remains, but is passable without traction with careful footing. Crowds were packing in for the weekend. Get it while conditions are good! |
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9/3/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/3/2020, By: HikesInGeologicTime Info: Snow from last weekend is almost entirely avoidable and only small patches where it isn't; no need for microspikes yet. Campsites at Capitol Lake filled quickly last night (Wednesday), so plan ahead if you're planning to go up this weekend. |
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9/2/2020 Route: Northeast Ridge Posted On: 9/3/2020, By: JROSKA Info: Capitol Peak got a few inches of snow up high on Monday and it was still there two days later, mostly on north-facing aspects. It was somewhat problematic on the north side of K2. Just be mindful that it may take a few days to melt out and there may be ice in the morning in that area through the weekend. Consider bringing microspikes or just going up and over K2 instead of around the north side. Beyond that, knife edge and beyond, snow was not an issue. |