Mt. Wilson

Route: East Face
Posted On: 1/30/2022, By: osprey
Info: Sometimes the key to a successful winter summit is to get it the same day a strong trencher does it. I started at the Cross Mountain TH at 0545 and could see a climber's headlamp about 15 minutes above me. The Cross Mountain trail is well packed down. Upon reaching the turnoff to Slate Creek it was obvious the climber ahead was establishing a fresh trench after the recent snow storms. I finally caught up to the trencher about 1pm when he was on his way down from the summit. It was Will E! The final slope leading to the small col where one descends a short distance to the west to get to the south side of Mt Wilson is steep and icy and I had to front point with crampons on both the ascent and descent. The rocks leading to the summit had some snow but not enough to require an ax or crampons. It was very fortunate that Will had established the trench. It would not have been possible for me to summit otherwise. Even with his trench it took me 14 hours for the 12 miles RT. 

Route: East Face
Posted On: 1/23/2022, By: tomas_kazokas
Info: Started at Cros Mountain TH around 7:30 am. Skinned up the trail for a mile or so, and went left to break trail thru the woods towards the south headwall. South headwall had a slab with 2 inches of snow on top and made skinning challenging. Northeast headwall was steeper with more snow or just plain slab. Had to deploy ski crampons to make traction. Near 13,200 switched to crampons/ice axe and booted up toward the couloir. Stable snow conditions did lead to the saddle and from there a short gulley to the summit (around 2 pm). East Couloir had a good 6 inches of fresh snow and descend was a blast! Got to the boxcar couloir and did a snow stability assessment. Stability was not sufficient for us and we abandoned it. Skied back to the woods and slogged back to the car. 10h RT. What an amazing day and feel very fortunate to get this one in powder! 

Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 10/6/2021, By: Jasonicfederation
Info: Snow in Kilpacker Basin above ~12,300'. I put on my microspikes at about 13,700', and exchanged trekking poles for axe at about 13,900', prior to the "rock rib crossover". Snow was mostly only a few inches or so, but it was definitely deeper in the gully just before the rib crossover, near 13,900'... I took my time and really tested my foot placement in that area. There was at least some additional snow again overnight (Tue the 5th/early morning of Wed the 6th), but I don't think it was a whole lot more accumulation so would expect similar conditions as described. 

Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 10/9/2021, By: jfm3
Info: I climbed Wilson Peak on Monday October 4 and got a good look at the north side of the mountain. 

Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 9/27/2021, By: mtgoatmike
Info: Traverse is clear of snow from the "organ pipes" all the way to the "narrows". You encounter snow, on the north side of the traverse while down climbing picture 28. Traction would make it easier, but not necessary, our group did not have traction. Picture 22, showing the route going directly over the rock on the left of a giant crack, did not look safe in our groups eyes. There are a set of cairns to the right of the crack that lead you up and around this section, right up to the ridge. In picture 22, the giant crack is above the sliver of snow, cairns are to the right of here. In picture 30, rock and dirt was pretty stable on the left side. The crux move, right before the summit, is spicy and a lot of fun! The traverse was challenging to say the least. From the "organ pipes" to the "narrows" is straight forward. After that, our group had some challenges with the terrain and comfort levels. All in all, all 4 in our group successfully crossed! 

Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 9/25/2021, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Day tripped Wilson and El Diente from Kilpacker with no traverse. SW slopes on Wilson are summer conditions, easy class 3. Summit log canister broken and paper needs to be replaced. 

Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 9/6/2021, By: Flyingfish
Info: Route is dry the whole way. The traverse is scary with the number of people that were up there Labor Day weekend lots of loose rock and rock fall. Be aware of people above and below you. 

Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 8/20/2021, By: ericd01
Info: Exhilarating & airy in a few places coming from a morning climb up El Diente. From Kilpacker TH, 6.5-hrs to summit including the 2-hr solo traverse. Approaching from the SE, the 7-mile Kilpacker Trail offered lush vegetation, water access, well-cairned talus fields, and an upwind view of inbound clouds & thickness. Although commitment & exposure remain high on Mt Wilson, an escape route at the saddle near the narrows section is only about a 30-min commitment at worst case scenario. SW Slopes descent, 4-hrs to parking lot. 

Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 8/22/2021, By: kissmyiceaxe
Info: Camped about 3 miles in near the creek- great water source. Summited El D and Mt Wilson the next day. A little under 7 miles from camp to camp, but a long day on the traverse and alllllll the talus. There's a saddle about 3/4 of the way through the traverse that we chose to bail on bc of weather moving in, so we dropped down a few hundred feet and hooked up with the SW Slope trail and summited Mt Wilson that way. This avoids any class 4 moves on the traverse. Dry, summer conditions the whole way, but no easy water source after you leave the creek/meadow. 

Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 8/7/2021, By: JROSKA
Info: There were a few minor snowfields remaining in the drainage but all can either be avoided or can be crossed on rocks in the snowfield. No snow anywhere else. Some loose rock in the steeper upper sections of the drainage was problematic but both gullies below the summit seemed very stable at the sides. Trail at the start of the approach was a bit muddy. 

Route: North Slopes
Posted On: 8/2/2021, By: Ssgustafson
Info: Good trail up El Diente from Kilpacker, and then terrific traverse to Mt Wilson. Descent of North Slopes into Navajo Basin was a pretty awful rock hop. No trail until about 12,300 El. Talked to USFS rep on the hike out who said a multi-year trail renovation project was beginning - but would not expect any significant near term improvement. Suggest Kilpacker approach. 

Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 7/12/2021, By: donovanrice
Info: Did North Buttress up El Diente, then the traverse to Mt Wilson, then down North Slopes of Mt Wilson. Camped at Navajo Lake the night before and after. You could also camp in the upper Navajo Basin, but it would be exposed. Really refreshing water in the basin! North Buttress was really enjoyable, with solid rock virtually the entire route. We took the alternate route proposed by KeithK at the top, and it was really intuitive and solid. Only snow we encountered was during the traverse right before the final gully to Mt Wilson. Looks like you could maneuver around it, though the 3 of us crossed it just fine without traction (1 had ice axe, 1 had whippet, and 1 had no self arrest device). Descending North Slope of Mt Wilson was tedious with loose rocks, but no mandatory snow crossings. The next day, we hiked up the Rock of Ages saddle in attempt to summit Wilson Peak, but we turned around out of sheer exhaustion from the day before. Better safe than sorry, and the peak will always be there in the future! 

Route: Southwest Slopes
Posted On: 7/12/2021, By: kcovingt1
Info: Took the Kilpacker approach which was mostly dry until you enter the drainage. Large snow fields that are essentially ice in the early mornings. We did not have spikes or axes and it added probably an hour to our trip. I would recommend taking these items. Do not try to go around the snow for now because otherwise you scramble extremely loose rock that triggers slides from above. Route is dry above about 13,700'. Fun climb the rest of the way. Will add photos soon. 

Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 7/7/2021, By: cougar
Info: Traverse is summer conditions, small stretch of snow below wilson summit easily crossed, good tracks. North slopes descent dry, snow is not on route 

Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 7/7/2021, By: ButterDips12
Info: Had a stellar day on the El Diente, Mt Wilson Traverse. There is snow on the descent of Mt Wilson's SW Slopes but it warms up nice for careful glissading around 12pm on a sunny day. A new friend joined us on the traverse and we met another person coming up the wrong gully of Mt Wilson's SW slopes. We all descended together to the trailhead. There is a lot of loose rock to be dealt with on this route but some larger rocks are loose that you wouldn't expect to move; but they do.