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Castle Peak

Peak Condition Updates  
7/12/2011
Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/12/2011, By: Gopherboy
Info: Hiked Castle and Conundrum and enjoyed plenty of glissading. We used microspikes once in the basin but they probably weren‘t necessary. Members of another group behind us didn‘t use traction and they were fine. No problem following the road up into the basin - there are still a couple snow covered areas and plenty of water running in several spots. Snow was firm enough to avoid any post holing. 
2
7/2/2011
Route: Castle and Conundrum
Posted On: 7/4/2011, By: mandm15
Info: Hiked Castle Peak via Northeast route on 7/2, then took connecting ridge to Conundrum. Road is melting extremely fast, and trees that were blocking road from avalanche (just above creek crossing) have now been cleared, so you can drive 1+ miles up road past creek before hitting snow that may be impassable with standard SUV. However, within a few days I would imagine snow will have melted completely on road where should be able to make it to Pearl Pass intersection (@11,200‘) without too much difficulty. Hiked up road from creek crossing as it was running fast and was nervous about crossing with my tiny Isuzu SUV. A few SUVs/pickups had crossed night before and said it wasn‘t too bad. With "late" start (6:30AM at creek crossing), by the time I was above treeline snow was soft enough where crampons were not necessary on standard route (although I brought them, never put them on). Ice axe helpful on way up (more for balancing and piece of mind than absolute necessity), but imperative if you plan on glissading down from top of mtn. That said, I probably would not hike it without one. Above 13,400 feet or so is snow free, as are all ridges on top. Melting fast.. If you’d like any more info, PM me...Thanks..Mike 
6/12/2011
Route: North Face Couloir
Posted On: 6/15/2011, By: Lyssah
Info: Snow is solid to walk on for a 140lb person, becoming icy from repeated freeze and thaw on approach to castle couloir. Sun has melted pot holes in the snow which make hiking with regular footwear tedious in places. Still lots of snow on approach. Only bare places are random rock outcroppings. (Photos 1 and 2) Couloir has lots of snow, no bare places yet. Snow is thick, heavy, wet. Becoming slightly icy due to freeze and thaw. In early morning, snow still easily bore the weight of a 140lb person with gear and it was possible to kick in steps that held for multiple people. By 10am, snow was softening, and kick steps did not hold their shape well. Snow is still thick and becomes slick. (Photo 3) Top of couloir has lots of snow, which is not obviously corniced but care should still be taken. Summit push from couloir is snow covered on the left of the rocky ridge which is exposed. (Photo 4) It was possible to climb the snow to the left of the rocky ridge but by 10:30 snow was getting wet and not holding its shape. Downclimbing from summit on this snow required greater care as the snow became slippery and with foot misplacement it would be easy to slide down the snow on the exposed side. It was still possible at 1030am for skiiers to ski down both the summit and the couloir. Many chose to decend via the castle/conundrum saddle. Standard route decent starts dry, but ridge is a rock/snow/ice mixed climb. Extra care should be taken. After ridge, side of mountain down from ridge is dry (scree). It is possible to glissade many times once off the ridge and down from the scree. Conundrum ridge to Conundrum summit was sketchy from snow and ice (second hand information, other skiiers). 
3
6/4/2011
Route: North Face Couloir
Posted On: 6/5/2011, By: hberry
Info: Climbed from the summit of Conundrum (See other conditions report). The ski is in from the summit with plenty of snow still at the summit. Started descending a bit before 10 - the snow was still very solid all the way through the Couloir - not obvious signs of instability. Once in the basin the snow was very buttery and nice until tree line where there is a dust layer which will slow you down and give a nice base grind to the skis. - You can currently ski within 1/2 mile of the bridge at the stream crossing. 
5/31/2011
Route: North Face Couloir
Posted On: 6/1/2011, By: Rastaman566
Info: Traversed across from Conundrum and dropped into the North Face Couloir. I did a shear test on that north face and found the snow to be extremely stable, likely isothermal. Watch out for the large cornice on the Conundrum-Castle Saddle (last photo).