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Torreys Peak

Condition Updates  
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 6/15/2024, By: lang_daly
Info: Melting pretty quickly. Wouldn't want to be coming down any later than 9 AM, even with a freeze. Several rocks came down the couloir as early as 7:30 
Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 6/15/2024, By: brian2018
Info: Pretty snow free until the base of the main couloir. Cold weather yesterday helped, solid refreeze crust. Snowy all the way to the ridge if you stay skiers right at the fork, final 100m ridge walk to summit is summer conditions. Dropped in a bit after 10:30. Great conditions on the way down. Any earlier would've been a bit crusty, too much later would've been slushy. Top 200 vertical feet of the couloir is a bit rocky, probably will melt out more in the next week. Emperor's Couloir is probably done for the year. Melt around the highest rockband looks to leave the top portion isolated from the lower. Could maybe stay skiers left and take the alternate way in lower down the ridge, but tbd, it's melting quick. See pics 
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Route: Kelso ridge to deaddog
Posted On: 6/14/2024, By: ericahlstedt
Info: Road to summer TH is dry. Kelsos ridge is clear of snow besides a few patches towards the top. No crampons or ice axe needed. Dead dog skieed great around 9am, earlier would be better though. A lot of loose wet sluff management but still really fun. Emperor and tuning fork dont go to the summit anymore. 
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Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 6/8/2024, By: Explored by Kyle
Info: Sat. June 8th. Dead Dog still climbing good. Road is clear all the way to trailhead. Patches of snow covering standard route but no need for floatation. Early morning micro spikes or poles good choice. 
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Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 6/5/2024, By: bruised
Info: Was able to drive grizzly gulch road to just past the second large creek crossing (around 10750ft) in a slightly lifted 4runner with AT tires (only got stuck once, if you're gonna go for it bring your shovels and friends!). From there its increasing patchy snow till about 11k and from there you can mostly skin. It was a weak freeze and while not mandatory having floatation seemed easier. Climbed tuning fork and turned around near 13.7k at 1215pm due to warmer than expected conditions, way less wind than forecasted and everything was getting hot quick. Corn up top that quickly deteriorated below 12.5k into mashed potatoes and we were kicking off quickly growing roller balls near 11.5k. Lookers right fork was in all the way to the ridge, left fork might still go but top was looking thin and hard to see. Be careful with the poor freezes coming up and leave some margin for whats heating up below you, one of the roller balls we set off grew to the size of an ottoman. 
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Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 6/3/2024, By: cj85
Info: Dead Dog has good coverage. The snow was solid 5:30 to 7:00 am and even difficult to kick steps into. Though there were a few areas in the couloir that were soft. The approach was still supportive at 10:00 am without flotation, but it was softening quickly. 
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Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 6/3/2024, By: leandra_nikont
Info: Really fun first couloir climb! Hopefully the skiers in the pictures find this! 
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Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 5/29/2024, By: Skimo95
Info: We parked about .8 from the upper trailhead. Booted the standard route and skied/rode emp around 7 before work. Top section was still frozen coming off the summit, and gradually got better. Rode through the trees a bit and back to the road. Snow was still supportive for booting at this time. What a neat and interesting couloir 
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Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 5/29/2024, By: JakeByk
Info: Emperor is in. 4WD can make it to the first stream crossing. Lots of snow bridges crossing the creek at various spots are melting fast, I recommend bringing sandals for your descent in case they melt on your way back. It was a party when I went up (booted) so there's a good foot trench. One axe / whippet should suffice. Top out is not my favorite. Descended Tuning Fork which was also not my favorite but better than walking down Emperor. Get it while it's in! 
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Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 5/25/2024, By: blonde_dinosaur
Info: We parked in a pull off just before the first stream crossing on Grizzly Gulch. We started around 4:15am. Grizzly Gulch road was mostly snow covered - I wore spikes in the morning and had no regrets as the snow was packed and icy. Donned crampons a little below the base of Emperor. Snow was generally good and supportive in the couloir. Punchy lower down, more firm in the middle, and was only soft for the last 500 feet or so. We reached the summit of Torreys around 10am. It is a looooooong couloir but not difficult and only gets a bit steep topping out. We descended via Tuning Fork and downclimbed maybe 150-200 feet and were able to plunge step/glissade the rest. Those in our group who glissaded said it was not very fun, but the two of us who plunge stepped had perfect conditions for it. Snow was a slushy mess on the way out. Brought snowshoes, stashed 'em, and didn't end up using them. 
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Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 5/24/2024, By: Ericsheffey
Info: Tuning Fork Couloir // 05.23.24 My group had a successful climb and ski/ride descent of Tuning Fork Couloir yesterday. We climbed and rode the main fork, and found excellent climbing conditions on the way up, and great riding conditions on the way down. We dropped at around 1230pm and the top remained chalky and the bottom was corn. My group crossed paths with another climber that was going to descend the Emperor Couloir as well, with roughly the same planned drop time. We were able to drive until just before the first stream crossing on Grizzly Gulch without any issue. The main road looked dry beyond the split with GG but we didn't investigate that further. GG road is probably 70% snow beyond where we parked but is melting fast. Go get after it while the coverage is so good, y'all! 
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Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 5/17/2024, By: kendricb
Info: Road is intermittently snow covered after the Grizzly Gulch junction, but continuous snow for skinning doesn't start until just before the slide path off Kelso. Grizzly Gulch is snow covered all the way back to the creek crossing near the junction. 
Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 5/12/2024, By: wintersage
Info: I would give this couloir a few more weeks and freeze/thaw cycles before its ready for climbing. Currently, the snow is deep and unconsolidated the entire way to the summit; its great for skiing, but not for climbing. We summited anyway but since we did not have skis, we took the standard way down. The storm rolled in as forecasted and created some intense whiteout conditions that were difficult to navigate. 
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Route: Emperor Couloir
Posted On: 4/25/2024, By: ReggieBop
Info: The fresh 8-10 on snow made climbing Emperor coliour a good hard leg burner, but the skiing conditions were sublime! Also, if someone lost a mountaineering axe, please message me and describe it, and Ill find a way to get it back to you! 
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Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 4/18/2024, By: jmanner
Info: Toured by Torreys. East face and DD looking good. 
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Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 4/15/2024, By: gluckhikes
Info: Climbed to 13,300 on firm snow and a great boot pack. One group ahead of us went higher into steeper snow that became more committing, 2 axes recommended. We skied down at 11:30 and the snow was still firm at that time. No signs of warming until we got back down to the road. 
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Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 3/7/2024, By: Logan5280
Info: Climbed Kelso Ridge today with Clark and skied a variation of the summer route on Torreys. This was a real epic, with Kelso being in pretty full-on condition and the skiing leaving a lot to be desired. The road walk is packed pretty much the whole way and there was a faint skin track in the riverbed up Stevens Gulch. Once it ended, we set a skin track up to the start of Kelso ridge, though I suspect it will get buried fast. Kelso Ridge was quite possibly my most physically and technically difficult winter climb to date. Since the peaks were coated in snow from the last storm, there was constant deep, unconsolidated snow, made particularly strenuous from the ski haul. It took nearly 3 times as long as in summer. The snow on the ridge was reasonably stable and not too wind affected, but the east face of Torreys (including Dead Dog Couloir) looked ready to rip with the slightest disruption. Aside from a few steep snow crossings, the first half of the ridge had fairly chill climbing. The two cruxes in the current conditions were right near the end of the ridge. The headwall before the knife edge required some steep climbing on rock, made challenging by ski boots. The knife edge itself was hands down the technical crux. Clark straddled it and was met with some tricky exposed moves on the white rocks. I skirted the knife edge on the north side of the ridge and had some exposed slab moves. Neither seemed ideal. From the summit down to the saddle is mostly skiable on a small strip of snow, though major caution is required with the cornice. Some rocks prevented a continuous descent, requiring skis to be carried briefly. After ascending past the saddle slightly in order to avoid rock bands, the ski down wasn't too bad, though it had many hidden shark fin rocks. Over 12 hours later, we made it back to the car, soaked as the snow started picking up significantly. Definitely a tough, but memorable day in a beautiful place, and a cool route for what will likely be my last snowflake this winter. 
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Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 1/31/2024, By: illusion7il
Info: Road packed. Trail packed. No snowshoes needed. 1st crux was definatly the hardest. Snow is still rather sugary and not that well consolidated. Ax and crampons mandatory. 
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Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 2/2/2024, By: Archie57
Info: Climbed Torreys from Loveland Pass. Left the afternoon of the 29th, camped atop Grizzly which I summited at sunset, and climbed Torreys West ridge on the 30th with one other climber who summited Grizzly as I was leaving for Torreys. The night was quite cold but almost windless. Otherworldly conditions in the morning, bluebird and no wind, it was quite a wonderful day. Reascending Grizzly on the return was pretty brutal in the soft snow, and I'd imagine this part of the route (Grizzly's E ridge) would pose some avalanche danger in worse conditions. A fantastic winter route. Big thanks to T for finding my keys which fell from my pocket! 
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Route: Grays and Torreys
Posted On: 1/2/2024, By: Ricebowll
Info: Made it to the summer trailhead with no issues in my 4runner w/ AT tires! Absolutely beautiful day - barely any wind at all and was warm the whole way. There were a few spots I was postholing but nothing bad. I used spikes and poles. 
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