Crestone Peak

Route: South Face
Posted On: 10/5/2025, By: Veory
Info: Started very early (1:30 am) from the cottonwood th because one of our party members had to catch a flight out of Denver. Climbing up the red gully in the dark was very icy, the lower spots i would've preferred to have crampons to micros, but they sufficed. Snow and ice covered most of the route to the notch. Coming down everything was softer and much easier. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 10/4/2025, By: EvanKBlack
Info: Posted traverse conditions from Cottonwood under Needle and reposting here— all dry except avoidable patches around Black Gendarme ans before/after headwall. Did not use traction. Precip was dropping as we drove away, so next few days likely to be much worse conditions. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 9/29/2025, By: Novochops
Info: Snow and ice above 13.5k from last night’s storm. There was a layer of rime on everything including us as we climbed. All was passable with careful footing. There wasn’t much snow and day or two of sun would probably melt it all. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 9/28/2025, By: Mark57
Info: As of 9/26/25 the south face route/ red gully still had summer climbing conditions throughout, with around a dozen successful summit ascents while I was on the mountain. Many climbers went on to complete the traverse to Crestone Needle, and the ones I spoke with reported no difficulty with snow or ice.
The gully to Broken Hand Pass still had snow, but from a little above the two crux class 3 moves to the left of the rock spike, this mostly could be avoided by sticking to the far right side (looking up toward the pass). During my late afternoon descent, I felt more comfortable putting on my micro spikes, but they stayed in my pack on the way up (with use of trekking poles and deeply cleated boot soles). 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 9/22/2025, By: jimmyolson01
Info: Summer conditions on the South Face; scrambling in the red gully was splendid. Some snow near the top of Broken Hand Pass, but nothing that was enough to make me feel uncomfortable in boots w/o spikes. A few buddies of mine did the Traverse, and summer conditions remain in tact 

Route: Crestones Traverse
Posted On: 9/19/2025, By: bdloftin77
Info: Broken Hand Pass has some snow. I made it up and down okay without them, but microspikes would have been helpful. Red gully had some water, but not snow. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 8/17/2025, By: jklammer
Info: Upper trailhead to Crestone Peak summit and back to trailer head, around 12 hrs 430a-4p. Waited on summit for clouds to clear and they never did. The entire hike is great, summer, dry hiking conditions. Gully was clear besides a little water in the lower center - lots of space to navigate around. Great climbing. I was a bit intimidated ahead of time - but didnt need to be because the scramble is secure the whole way. It was clear in morning, then fog blew in and we were socked in on the summit. It clear up when we almost down the gully. A handful of tents at the S Colony Lake, with plenty of backpackers walking up on my return. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 8/10/2025, By: CDubFTW
Info: Made it to the 4WD TH in my Jeep Grand Cherokee, just need the Rock mode and careful route planning. We decided to try the road when a BMW SUV said they made it. Parking lot filled up at like 4 pm on Friday, but there are plenty of pull-offs along the road. Lots of people camped around Lower South Colony Lake, with easy stream access on the connector between the split trails. Broken Hand Pass was shit. Hard to track the trail in the dark and all loose and steep. The back side of BHP was still steep and loose down the basin until you drop down to the lake. The Red Gulley had a creek running down the bottom half. The gulley switched between beautiful sticky rock slabs and crap chutes. Felt more like Class 2 most of the time with a few easy Class 3 portions. After reaching the top of the gulley, stick to the left of the ridge crest and you're there. Also zero snow near this route. Hope this helps!
Time wise:
2h10m from 4WD to Lower South Colony Lake
1h10m to climb BHP
1h to reach bottom of Red Gulley
2h up to the summit (it's a glute burner) 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 7/21/2025, By: Ariella6
Info: Road from 4wd lot up to trail had muddy/wet spots.

Rest of trail is dry and in summer conditions. 

Route: North Buttress
Posted On: 7/22/2025, By: evanm137
Info: This route is AWESOME! Just make sure you research the crux beforehand, since that's the gnarliest part. If you have climbing experience, are comfortable with exposure, and love a challenge, then this route is an absolute pleasure. Summer conditions absolutely everywhere on this mountain. Did the traverse as well. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 7/21/2025, By: madmattd
Info: Came up Cottonwood side, camped near the waterfall at 11.4k. Mosquitos around but not a big issue, only a couple bites over 2 days without spray/headnet use. I found the navigation fine for the 4 miles to where I camped. The tricky parts generally written about are in the ~3/4mi from where I camped to the junction with the route to Crestone Peak/Cottonwood Lake - it's easy to miss a turn in the faint footbed and get off route, especially in the willows. I added a small cairn or two at faint unmarked turns, in general it is decently cairned, but in the dark if you've never been on it before it could be challenging to follow (not terrible in the day time). There's also a couple class 3 pitches (one by the base of the upper waterfall near 11.7k' verges on class 4 in my opinion) to spice things up if you're trying to camp higher than I did. I had the "benefit" of going up and down this section on consecutive days so I now feel pretty good about where the route goes. There is also a lightly-cairned route that prompts you to cross the stream just above the 11.4k' waterfall, and recross around 11.8k' - this goes but I think the proper trail (which does NOT cross the main stream) is the better way to go overall.

No snow on the entire route. Tons of water especially low in the red gully but easy to swing back and forth to keep dry soles. Very straight forward class 3 with minimal route-finding - just go up! Take and use a helmet!!! Rock fall can happen and it was staggering how many people were climbing the red gully without one (or left it on their packs). 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 7/2/2025, By: OntheRocks78
Info: There are some no overnight parking signs posted at the 2WD TH that other hikers told me are new. Plenty of people still parking overnight however. The road to upper TH is rough but I made it in a VW Altas 2WD, which has good clearance. Probably would not attempt to again. Mosquitos present at S Colony lakes campsites but tolerable. Route is essentially snow free. Did not do the Needle but looks to be summer conditions as well. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 6/28/2025, By: jmfb3
Info: Such a great climb! Summer conditions with ~2-3 small snowfield crossings. Traction could be helpful if you're nervous / cautious, but my group did not use traction and had no issues.

Be warned - THE MOSQUITOS. They're horrendous. My legs look like I have a horrible case of poison ivy. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 6/22/2025, By: ericolson
Info: Great day camped down at colony lakes but the wind was horrendous, started Bout 430 up broken hand pass , still some patches of snow fun for sliding down on the way back but easily avoidable, still a little snow in the gulley but easily avoidable if you veer left, little more class 4 moved but not to shabby you end up a little above the notch and makes you closer to the summit, no need for spikes or axe almost summer conditions it’s melting fast! So go for it 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 6/16/2025, By: HokieTom
Info: I will post some photos shortly. The red gully, or more correctly named now, the white gully, is loaded. However, a lot of melting later on the 2nd photo.