Route is completely dry. Once above the trail on the grass slog, look for a well-cairned and traveled social trail that climbs left and up through the initial c3 cliffs on the right side of the debris flow gully .
Presently, the trail/cairns are fairly easy to follow all the way around right and up through the c3/c4 bands/gullies to the Gilpin connecting ridge. After the stiff c4 move and short downclimb, the stepover bulge can be avoided by climbing up briefly to a higher ledge (c2+).
The exposed summit pitch is a single move of low 5th; rest is 4th. Up the left angled crack, switch over right briefly before scrambling up. We had a party of 4 and a single rope, so we belayed just through the crux and scrambled the rest. Throwing a rope down seemed an annoying prospect.
Recommended rack: BD .75 (horizontal crack protects the crux perfectly), a few mid-sized nuts double lengths for anchors. If one were to sew it up, an additional BD 1 and 2 would do. Webbing at all three stations (summit, summit pitch bail point, optional lower 4th class section) was in good condition and the summit orange webbing/aluminum rap ring were just placed by josephg's group 8/17.
Mileage ~12. Cruiser trail. 4AM start put us just below the first difficulties at first light (consistent average pace).
I felt the crux move was slightly spicier than Teakettle's crux move. Probably due to the increased exposure. Dallas' approach was more tedious, slightly more exposed, and longer, but Teakettle's approach was looser (dinner plates).
Pictures last quarter of here: https://picasaweb.google.com/105978537438093356597/TrurosAndDallas08182013
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