Exped Operators for K2

[champs_de_glacé]

I’m considering offers from Elite Exped, Imagine Nepal, 8K, SST, and SummitClimb regarding K2 for summer of 2025. These are all Nepali firms (more of less).

Thoughts of reputation? I have prior experience with two of the above firms but want to hear from the community.

Should I consider a western company like Alpenglow or Furtenbach?

[cottonmountaineering]

most of the nepali companies will leave you and step over your corpse if anything goes wrong, western guiding companies are more expensive, more conservative, but you can trust them to get you back home. logistic only companies are also an option if you dont need a guide or porters

if it were me i would go logistics only, the mountain is really only safe after all the commercial expeditions have left

[champs_de_glacé]

As the great French climber, Lionel Terray said, “I quickly realized that my greatest achievement would be to merely walk in the footsteps of the great exploratory climbers.”

(I am happy to be a “client climber” on an expedition)

[desertdog]

Might want to talk to Garrett Madison, Maddison Mountaineering. He’s got a fair amount of experience on K2. Runs a good operation. He’s worth a phone call. Good luck!

[Alan Arnette]

[champs_de_glacé]

Thanks for the feedback from famed journalist whose blog we all are devoted. I talked to you on the phone a few months ago, you weee very helpful and offered some insights into the “Stockholm Syndrome” that very much characterizes my prior experiences (laughter).

I have great respect for Garrett, and will reach out to him — but I am leaning towards Elite Exped as I think they are very motivated to get 2025 running smoothly — getting back to the core business after the little pr problems which are bound to happen after so much positive coverage.

That said, I am pondering a second option of Lhotse / Makula double but I’m a little skeptical about the “EBC party scene” and the sort of client climbers that are laser focused on Everest — more bluntly, the slower less agile climbers on Dablam and Manaslu were over the moon to immediately climb Everest — hence my idea to
leave it unclimbed as a mento mori or sorts! I think that K2 probably makes the most sense now as I can still train properly for mid June departure. Thanks kindly for the input — I know K2 is a bit of a stretch but trying to get in absolute best shape with the realization that few opportunities arise with all the variables of personall health, family life, and finances.

[MyFeetHurt]

My experience is limited to Ama but I don't recommend summit climb, they are a budget company and while I don't seek luxury, they were mediocre at best unless that is what you are planning for up front and somewhat self sufficient. In that case they might be ok.

[kushrocks]

Not sure why you would use a Nepali operator in Pakistan. Karakoram Tours in Pakistan was awesome for us on G2 and I have had friends go for the 8k's there also using them with great experiences. I plan on using them next year to go back as well. I would absolutely not use a Nepali company in Pakistan.

[champs_de_glacé]

Glad to hear you had a good experience with Pakistani guides.

Why am I inclined to hire Nepalis?

I don’t have much climbing background actually — I come from endurance —- former NCAA runner. So I just started climbing in Nepal in 2023 and was very fast and agile but ONLY when I gave a guide that I shadow otherwise I would get killed quickly. Hence I want to work with the same people — all those companies I listed work closely together — my last guide, an “old school” Sherpa had previously worked as rope fixer on Everest so in my book he’s one of the best high altitude climbers on earth although no media coverage and no sponsorship— I gave him a C.A.M.P. nano ice ax and he was thrilled — and these Nepalis just made first winter ascent of K2 and guided the first Pakistani to climb all 14 8s. So I think they probably know K2 the best — if trekking or climbing at 6000m I would
hire a local firm and thanks for the reference.

[Scott P]

I don’t have much climbing background actually —

And you still want to climb K2? I'm not criticizing, but this is rather strange and a lot of companies may not accept you on a team.

Good luck I guess though and let us know how it turns out.

[Violet]

Inspired by your courage and story, I just want to leave a message and say “ Hi”.
K2 is always my dream, which I would love to see it in person someday since I am from Asia. I read a lot of stories of it….
And I plan to go to Nepal this summer for the Annapurna base ABC trail.
There is a forum called “ 2himalaya” in which there are a lot of climbing and 8M mountains information in Nepal and Pakistan. As far as I know, many Sherpas from Nepal guided K2. And In January 2021 K2 became the final eight-thousander to be summited in the winter by a team of Nepalese climbers led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa.
Good luck to u!

[pvnisher]

I remember a great climber, The Great Camillo, if memory serves, who did K2 a number of times.
I don't have his direct contact info but maybe someone here does?