Matterhorn or so, late August 2023

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JaredJohnson
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Matterhorn or so, late August 2023

Post by JaredJohnson »

I'll be leaving İstanbul on 2023-08-21 and I'm considering the possibility of detouring to climb the Matterhorn. I'm at sea level all summer so I'd probably stay on the area for 6-9 days and do it near the end. I'm in the early stages of researching it but thought I'd reach out in case I'm wasting my time. I haven't climbed with a guide before, if money was no object I would probably get one for this but it looks like over 3k euro which I might simply not have to spend along with the travel expenses etc. Does anyone have suggestions for local guides that might be significantly cheaper, or suggestions for some good beta to solo the Matterhorn as well as other good peaks to warm up, acclimatize, and test skills on in the area beforehand?

I also would not be opposed to alternate destinations that could scratch a similar itch. And I'd also love a qualified partner or two if that worked out!

Aside from my 14er list I've solo'd the Grand Teton in summer conditions via Owen Spalding, pikes Y couloir in early spring, the lion head on Washington in calendar winter but fairly mild conditions, and flume slide on a warm drippy winter day. I haven't done any glacier travel. Initial research suggests the standard route would be similar to Owen Spalding followed by some manageable snow travel. If it's a much different league than that I'd love to know.
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Scott P
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Re: Matterhorn or so, late August 2023

Post by Scott P »

Exploreshare would be a good place to look for local guides:

https://www.explore-share.com/search/al ... uration=60

The Matterhorn is probably the most expensive 2-day guided climb anywhere though. Doing it without a guide would definitely be cheaper.

You probably already know this, but Turkey has a lot of rugged mountains too.
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jfm3
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Re: Matterhorn or so, late August 2023

Post by jfm3 »

The Zermatters guiding company is the largest one in Zermatt. I went up Breithorn (an easy 13er above the glacier slightly east of Matterhorn) with them last year. Looks like their Matterhorn climbs start at under 2000 CHF.

https://www.zermatters.ch/index.php/en/ ... 4478-m-asl

The climb itself doesn't cross any glaciers. I haven't climbed Matterhorn, but from what I've read it is like a really long version of the top of OS. Derek Wright, son of Bill Wright (local Boulder/Flatiron legend and occasional poster on this forum) climbed Matterhorn in a day from Zermatt last year. Here's his report: https://www.strava.com/activities/7569968379.
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JacobW
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Re: Matterhorn or so, late August 2023

Post by JacobW »

I soloed it back in 2015 with very little trouble. On the Hornli Ridge, there are fixed ropes at each of the class 5 sections, and they're fixed at the top and bottom. So, I wore a harness and threw a sling around the lines to add a little protection. Also, the rock is terrible, but the route is meticulously cleaned by the Zermatt guides, so as long as you're on route the rock should be stable (still wear a helmet). Nearly everyone does it guided, but I think most of the guiding companies will want to take you on a few other climbs first to work up to the Matterhorn. If I did it again, I would probably want to go up and over and then spend a day in Cervinia before hiking back to Zermatt. Lastly, the weather is hard to nail down for it. All the groups aim to summit by 9AM since storms often approach from the south, which you can't see from Hornli Ridge.

Best of luck!
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JaredJohnson
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Re: Matterhorn or so, late August 2023

Post by JaredJohnson »

Well it seems I've developed some severe achilles tendonitis that may keep me out of the mountains for many months ): I expect to be back in Turkey and back in Europe in the future so I'll definitely be exploring both areas once I'm healed up!
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