LB - can't decide between WRI or hourglass route

[Watlas]

Have spent a lot of time and research trying to figure out which route to take. Having to downclimb that exposed class 4 move on the way down WRI seems pretty scary, and the ridge itself seems pretty catwalk-y with loose rock.

But having fridge sized rocks shoot down the hourglass randomly is also bad.

So really stuck on my decision. Soliciting opinions, especially from people who have done both

[bdloftin77]

How are you with exposure? And have you considered the SW ridge?

[Scott P]

Doing the Hourglass as a snow climb seems the only fun and practical way to do Little Bear.

If you don't know how to use an ice axe, learn.

[timewarp01]

SW ridge is the best option if you really wanna minimize risk. Another great way to reduce the chance of a rockfall incident is to move fast and don't descend LB. Zoom up the hourglass and do the traverse to Blanca.

[daway8]

Having done both routes I can say it really does primarily come down to rockfall vs exposure.

If you can make it up and down the Hourglass without rockfall (something many people have done) then you'll think it's a perfectly fine route.

If you're not bothered by exposure then you'll think West Ridge Indirect is a perfectly fine route.

But many people do experience rockfall in the Hourglass and the idea of moving fast enough to avoid it is laughably absurd to those of us who have seen the misiles that can rip down through there at staggering speeds. The idea of doing it in winter when ice chunks rip down it is no more comforting and the stakes of falling on snow/ice are exponentially higher. SW Ridge has some perks but besides more length and added bushwhacking, you're still suspended right above the Hourglass more closely than on WRI with more risk of killing someone if you knock anything loose.

So, if you want to minimize risks that are largely out of your control, I still suggest West Ridge Indirect, if you can handle the exposure. If not, and you're willing to take a chance on rockfall, try the Hourglass. Otherwise, if you're willing to take a longer route, with added bushwhacking and heightened risk of knocking rocks on others at the end, try SW Ridge.

[nyker]

As others have said, choice here is generally about trading rockfall risk for exposure and a newer route vs. more established route.

Those very comfortable with exposure and air under their feet will often downplay that risk to those not as comfortable with exposure where instant fear will stop them in their tracks, perhaps not purposely, but to them its not a big deal either due to their experience or brain chemistry. I saw it on Capitol, Longs, Half Dome, Hood, Mountaineers Route on Whitney where one partner was at ease on exposed technical terrain and the other was clearly not. Never a good situation where competing objectives/risk incompatibilities start to break a team up. Exposure invokes visceral fear and is a day-ender for many people. Only you can answer how you feel about that. Given your comment that the route seems scary tells me you probably don't have a lot of technical route climbing under your belt (most people don't and that's ok).

Also, there is a reason most routes are chosen as Standard Routes. They may not be the shortest, easiest, safest or easiest to follow but more often than not, are the best combination of those factors as well as being on publicly accessible lands.

If exposure ties your stomach into knots, then the Main route/HG may be better for you, where rather than deal with 100% chance of exposed terrain in spots, you deal with a certain percentage chance of rockfall; What that percentage is will in part depend on when you go and how you climb.
You'll never eliminate rockfall risk on any mountain, but there are ways to reduce the risk of rockfall on the main route / hourglass:

* Study the route over and over. Do a recon trip (no summit plan) to familiarize yourself with the route beforehand and before the HG to save time and minimize uncertainty day of actual climb.
* Don't view LB as a box to check and to just get done asap, but as a longer term project to approach with care and thoughtfulness, planning accordingly. Have a Plan B prepared. Respect the mountain.
* Often the risk of rockfall is magnified with people above you but also below you where you need to be mindful of what YOU may inadvertently dislodge, distracting you from your upward ascent. Climb when there are fewer people on the mountain so you can focus better.
* Go during mid-week in a non-holiday week and start early, i.e. you should be at the base of the hourglass at first light or just before. Watch the weather and turn around if things change. Rushing or hurrying down to beat weather coming in is often a cause for slips/falls.
* Climb in Spring when snow has consolidated (will need to time it well). Look at past reports when that should be. This will help reduce (not eliminate) some rockfall.
* If its been raining a lot in days leading up to you climb, may not be the best time to be there for that could increase odds of rocks being dislodged. Pay attention to weather.
* Be flexible with your plans, don't push it on a day you're not feeling it because of a flight the next day or "it's your last day and only chance to get it" You can come back even if its years later.
* Pay attention and look up/around when you climb, even for animals which could move a rock. I saw a raven once dislodge a bowling ball sized rock, much less sheep, goats, etc.
* Take some technical rock climbing lessons / guided day on low Class 5 terrain to get a little more comfortable with the feeling of exposure.
* If you opt for a spring climb in snow, learn the basics with an ice axe and crampons, snow movement techniques.
* Try not to take any rest breaks while in the hourglass itself.
* Test each hold
* Keep in mind not every climber on the mountain will read this site or be sensitive to the above. Lookout for yourself (and if you choose to have a partner, your partner as well).

Good luck!

[climbnowworklater]

SW Ridge.

[CaptainSuburbia]

SW Ridge.

2nd this

[Watlas]

As others have said, choice here is generally about trading rockfall risk for exposure and a newer route vs. more established route.

Those very comfortable with exposure and air under their feet will often downplay that risk to those not as comfortable with exposure where instant fear will stop them in their tracks, perhaps not purposely, but to them its not a big deal either due to their experience or brain chemistry. I saw it on Capitol, Longs, Half Dome, Hood, Mountaineers Route on Whitney where one partner was at ease on exposed technical terrain and the other was clearly not. Never a good situation where competing objectives/risk incompatibilities start to break a team up. Exposure invokes visceral fear and is a day-ender for many people. Only you can answer how you feel about that. Given your comment that the route seems scary tells me you probably don't have a lot of technical route climbing under your belt (most people don't and that's ok).

Also, there is a reason most routes are chosen as Standard Routes. They may not be the shortest, easiest, safest or easiest to follow but more often than not, are the best combination of those factors as well as being on publicly accessible lands.

If exposure ties your stomach into knots, then the Main route/HG may be better for you, where rather than deal with 100% chance of exposed terrain in spots, you deal with a certain percentage chance of rockfall; What that percentage is will in part depend on when you go and how you climb.
You'll never eliminate rockfall risk on any mountain, but there are ways to reduce the risk of rockfall on the main route / hourglass:

* Study the route over and over. Do a recon trip (no summit plan) to familiarize yourself with the route beforehand and before the HG to save time and minimize uncertainty day of actual climb.
* Don't view LB as a box to check and to just get done asap, but as a longer term project to approach with care and thoughtfulness, planning accordingly. Have a Plan B prepared. Respect the mountain.
* Often the risk of rockfall is magnified with people above you but also below you where you need to be mindful of what YOU may inadvertently dislodge, distracting you from your upward ascent. Climb when there are fewer people on the mountain so you can focus better.
* Go during mid-week in a non-holiday week and start early, i.e. you should be at the base of the hourglass at first light or just before. Watch the weather and turn around if things change. Rushing or hurrying down to beat weather coming in is often a cause for slips/falls.
* Climb in Spring when snow has consolidated (will need to time it well). Look at past reports when that should be. This will help reduce (not eliminate) some rockfall.
* If its been raining a lot in days leading up to you climb, may not be the best time to be there for that could increase odds of rocks being dislodged. Pay attention to weather.
* Be flexible with your plans, don't push it on a day you're not feeling it because of a flight the next day or "it's your last day and only chance to get it" You can come back even if its years later.
* Pay attention and look up/around when you climb, even for animals which could move a rock. I saw a raven once dislodge a bowling ball sized rock, much less sheep, goats, etc.
* Take some technical rock climbing lessons / guided day on low Class 5 terrain to get a little more comfortable with the feeling of exposure.
* If you opt for a spring climb in snow, learn the basics with an ice axe and crampons, snow movement techniques.
* Try not to take any rest breaks while in the hourglass itself.
* Test each hold
* Keep in mind not every climber on the mountain will read this site or be sensitive to the above. Lookout for yourself (and if you choose to have a partner, your partner as well).

Good luck!

As far as exposure comfort, I've climbed cap, Wilson-El diente, pyramid with no issues at all and thought they were way overblown. The only time I have been really scared was the Sunlight summit block, which I still did (very briefly)

[two lunches]

[daway8]

Yep, this is going to be a zombie-horse issue for a long while most likely...

.As far as exposure comfort, I've climbed cap, Wilson-El diente, pyramid with no issues at all and thought they were way overblown. The only time I have been really scared was the Sunlight summit block, which I still did (very briefly)

Curious that Sunlight bothered you but the others you list were considered by you to be "way overblown. Ignoring Sunlight for the moment, I'd say based on your reaction to the others that you mention you'll be totally fine on WRI.

But to hear that Sunlight bothered you but those others didn't, that leaves me unsure of how to predict your reaction...

However, if you go up to the crux on WRI and nope out, it's pretty easy to abort pre-crux and you're crazy close to the start of the Hourglass with just a little backtracking, so just give yourself an extra half hour or so and you can pick the one you please.

[Watlas]

Yep, this is going to be a zombie-horse issue for a long while most likely...

.As far as exposure comfort, I've climbed cap, Wilson-El diente, pyramid with no issues at all and thought they were way overblown. The only time I have been really scared was the Sunlight summit block, which I still did (very briefly)

Curious that Sunlight bothered you but the others you list were considered by you to be "way overblown. Ignoring Sunlight for the moment, I'd say based on your reaction to the others that you mention you'll be totally fine on WRI.

But to hear that Sunlight bothered you but those others didn't, that leaves me unsure of how to predict your reaction...

However, if you go up to the crux on WRI and nope out, it's pretty easy to abort pre-crux and you're crazy close to the start of the Hourglass with just a little backtracking, so just give yourself an extra half hour or so and you can pick the one you please.

TY for this take, seems a good way to approach it.