My name is Andrew, and I’m a student at the Colorado School of Mines. I’m
currently working on a microhistory project and have chosen to focus on
Albert Ellingwood’s influence on American mountaineering.
This topic is especially meaningful to me—I took a serious fall (30–40
feet) and broke my back while soloing the Ellingwood Ridge on La Plata last
October. Thankfully, I’m fully recovered and mountaineering again, and the
experience has only deepened my respect for the legacy of mountaineers like
Ellingwood. As a tribute to his impact and sheer badassery, I want to explore his notable
ascents and how he helped shape the culture of mountaineering in the U.S.
I was wondering if any of you have access to sources or insights into his life
and climbs that you’d be willing to share. Any help would be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks so much for your time!
A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
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Re: A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
I'd get in touch with the folks at the AAC library in Golden. There is at least one book specifically about Ellingwood (Albert Ellingwood: Scholar of Summits by Jeff Arnold). You could also request transcripts of his mountaineering journals from the library to use as a primary source. Unfortunately, the library is closed right now while they work on inventory with a view toward moving from their old site in Golden, but you can request book mail from them and I'm sure they'd email you the transcripts if you asked. One caveat to using the AAC library https://americanalpineclub.org/library/ is that you have to be a paying member of the AAC, which I think will cost you a minimum $40/yr. to get library access. You could try to see if the book I mentioned is available at other local libraries too. Hope this helps.
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Re: A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
I can't help much, but I wish my buddy Stewart Green was still alive. He climbed with Bob Ormes, who climbed with Ellingwood. So Stewart had a lot of stories and history in his head! He wrote about Ellingwood occasionally, so if you google their names together, you might find some stuff. Stewart passed away last June. He was in the middle of a memoir that included a ton of climbing history.
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Re: A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
You could try the CMC library for old issues of Trail and Timberline. I'm pretty sure Ellingwood wrote articles about his significant climbs for that magazine. It wouldn't be a primary source, but Bueler's "Roof of the Rockies" might point you at some primary sources. There is also "Climb!" by Achey, Chelton, and Godfrey.
Edit: The CMC and AAC are no longer sharing a building. The CMC has moved, but they're still in Golden. Their libraries were being managed as one, but I don't know what happened to the CMC's collection when they moved. If the CMC took their collection with them, then you might be able to access it even though the AAC library is closed.
Edit: The CMC and AAC are no longer sharing a building. The CMC has moved, but they're still in Golden. Their libraries were being managed as one, but I don't know what happened to the CMC's collection when they moved. If the CMC took their collection with them, then you might be able to access it even though the AAC library is closed.
Last edited by DaveLanders on Fri Apr 25, 2025 12:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
FYI as stated the library is closed. You can have them scan articles, but you can't check out any books. I would see if you can't get digital copies of some of Ellingwood's books just through your local library/library lending system.
I've read a book on Ellingwood that goes through his journey entries. It's all bad-assery. His trip to the Sangres was partly on horseback, and they went through boots like going through loaves of bread. Just amazing stuff.
Also paging gore_galore,
I've read a book on Ellingwood that goes through his journey entries. It's all bad-assery. His trip to the Sangres was partly on horseback, and they went through boots like going through loaves of bread. Just amazing stuff.
Also paging gore_galore,
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Re: A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
Are there any plans to prepare what he left of his memoirs for publication?susanjoypaul wrote: ↑Fri Apr 25, 2025 9:30 am I can't help much, but I wish my buddy Stewart Green was still alive. He climbed with Bob Ormes, who climbed with Ellingwood. So Stewart had a lot of stories and history in his head! He wrote about Ellingwood occasionally, so if you google their names together, you might find some stuff. Stewart passed away last June. He was in the middle of a memoir that included a ton of climbing history.
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Re: A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
Glad to hear you've recovered.
I was recently at a talk where the speaker mentioned that Ellingwood went to CC and was even a professor there at some point. Maybe the college knows something unique about him.
I was recently at a talk where the speaker mentioned that Ellingwood went to CC and was even a professor there at some point. Maybe the college knows something unique about him.
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Re: A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
Not that I know of. His two kids have the files. I have them because he and I worked together closely on pretty much everything. But all that belongs (legally) to his children now, so I can't touch it. Hopefully, one of them figures out a way to get some of those stories out there. They're both very good writers!bornbetterbeer wrote: ↑Fri Apr 25, 2025 6:15 pmAre there any plans to prepare what he left of his memoirs for publication?susanjoypaul wrote: ↑Fri Apr 25, 2025 9:30 am I can't help much, but I wish my buddy Stewart Green was still alive. He climbed with Bob Ormes, who climbed with Ellingwood. So Stewart had a lot of stories and history in his head! He wrote about Ellingwood occasionally, so if you google their names together, you might find some stuff. Stewart passed away last June. He was in the middle of a memoir that included a ton of climbing history.
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Re: A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
Robert Ormes wrote a chatty autobiography titled "Farewell to Ormes", which includes an account of his climbing trips with Ellingwood, Eleanor Davis, and Eleanor Bartlett. It's a little short on dates (probably early 1920's), and he talks about himself in the third person as "Rob", but has some interesting anecdotes. Here's a sample.
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Climbing at altitude is like hitting your head against a brick wall — it's great when you stop. -- Chris Darwin
I'm pretty tired. I think I'll go home now. -- Forrest Gump
I'm pretty tired. I think I'll go home now. -- Forrest Gump
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Re: A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
Next two pages
from "Farewell to Ormes":You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Climbing at altitude is like hitting your head against a brick wall — it's great when you stop. -- Chris Darwin
I'm pretty tired. I think I'll go home now. -- Forrest Gump
I'm pretty tired. I think I'll go home now. -- Forrest Gump
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Re: A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
And the last two from that chapter:
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Climbing at altitude is like hitting your head against a brick wall — it's great when you stop. -- Chris Darwin
I'm pretty tired. I think I'll go home now. -- Forrest Gump
I'm pretty tired. I think I'll go home now. -- Forrest Gump
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Re: A Microhistory on Albert Ellingwood
A most entertaining read -- thanks, for sharing, Jim.
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