Cent and other 13er Snow Routes

[kyrawhitworth]

In my quest to avoid nasty rock and excessively difficult routefinding, I am working to compile a list of peaks (primarily SJ and Elk) that are much better when climbed/skied on snow.

Ones I am looking for more info on (and I'll link what I've found):

Dallas S Face Couloir (good info on BoggyB and friends TR but many photos seem to be lost, would absolutely love any addtl info on this route): https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=17682, https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/108455046

Teakettle S face + Coffeepot (good info in supranihilest CR): https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstat ... cnum=26078, not sure what the traverse between these two would look like with snow

S Lookout: Magnum couloir, can you actually get to the summit of S Lookout from this route? My thought is no, no you can't. Somewhat related, it looks like the true summit has been changed post LiDAR

V3: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... trip=21635

I see some info on Castleabra (it was recently posted in its own thread) and I'm sure I'll find other Elk peaks to ask about soon enough

Ones I've completed and happy to share info but there's likely more than enough info out there:
Gladstone E face (did not ski from summit but most of the route)
Cathedral
Bull Hill A
Fitzpatrick
Sayres BM

[justiner]

Grizzly Peak looks to have a dope couloir to almost the summit (actually a few choice couloirs!). The standard summer route is not my favorite -- that initial hump up from the valley isn't classic.

[kyrawhitworth]

Grizzly Peak looks to have a dope couloir to almost the summit (actually a few choice couloirs!). The standard summer route is not my favorite -- that initial hump up from the valley isn't classic.

Yes it do and I've only done that one in the summer. Other Sawatch ski routes I'm looking at are Turner, Gladstone Ridge, Mountain Boy + Igloo (after indy pass opens).

[HikerGuy]

Gilpin is the worst pile of trash I have hiked. Go with snow.

[supranihilest]

Hi Kyra, check out the spreadsheet I've been compiling of all of my 13er climbs: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharing

It's not 100% complete but you can find all sorts of snow climbs by looking at the date. I've obviously done the Teakettle and "V 3" you linked on snow since those are mine, the others I can't speak for. That said, like you I tried to do as many snow climbs as possible so there's a lot in the spreadsheet that may help in the future!

I'll have a TR out for 13,067 in the Elk soon - done late summer but it'll give you a good idea of whether you want to try the north or south side, and another on North Twilight's north couloir and West Needle's northwest couloir, though the West Needles are fine without snow.

Gilpin is the worst pile of trash I have hiked. Go with snow.

+1. Done it both dry and with snow. I'd consider it somewhat dangerous dry, you'll definitely want a good coat of snow.

[kyrawhitworth]

Hi Kyra, check out the spreadsheet I've been compiling of all of my 13er climbs: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/ ... sp=sharing

It's not 100% complete but you can find all sorts of snow climbs by starting with the date, obviously. I've obviously done the Teakettle and "V 3" you linked on snow since those are mine, the others I can't speak for. That said, like you I tried to do as many snow climbs as possible so there's a lot in the spreadsheet that may help in the future!

Gilpin is the worst pile of trash I have hiked. Go with snow.

+1. Done it both dry and with snow. I'd consider it somewhat dangerous dry, you'll definitely want a good coat of snow.

Yes for Gilpin, there's multiple snow lines of varying steepness on that one. I plan to go for Gilpin this over memorial weekend depending on weather/conditions. Other ones that are on my list of trash loose SJ peaks to wait for spring snow are Trico, T10, Telluride, 13509

WOW! Awesome list and organization, I really appreciate the share on that one. Lots of great info in here that I can't wait to dig into

[dwoodward13]

Interesting, I didn't think Gilpin was really that bad at all

In addition to the Castleabra couloirs mention in that thread, the West/NW Face (?) directly from the hot springs is really nice and pretty moderate the whole time. I had a foot issue so ended up not making the summit, but partner did and recommended it as a highly enjoyable snow climb (Memorial Day weekend last year for timing idea).

Potosi N couloir is another classic if you wanted a snow climb. Emma looked like it could have some really interesting routes from the Telluride side as well.

[d_baker]

Other ones that are on my list of trash loose SJ peaks to wait for spring snow are Trico, T10, Telluride, 13509

I did Trico dry, up the E ridge and it was fine. However, I did go to T10 afterwards and that wasn't nearly as nice. From T10, I went back toward the saddle with Trico and at some point started traversing the W slopes of T10 to get to Three Needles. Also not fun.
Three Needles wasn't horrible but the gully leading to the summit ridge would probably be nicer with snow. Not sure how the route from saddle to summit would be if there is snow.

Telluride and 509 I did in winter, and with the snow conditions we had they went pretty well.

Emma looked like it could have some really interesting routes from the Telluride side as well.

Emma from Governor on spring snow is a good climb too.


Additions, after looking at Kyra's bicent list:
Cirque was fun with snow. LIdar will send me back to do the other summit though, and I would likely do it with snow again.

W. Apostle with snow is good. I went up the "standard" gully from Lake Ann approach side. Supra and Chicken did a fun looking route and he has a report on that, I believe.

Ramp on Tijeras is fun with snow. Haven't done it dry. All above it when we did it was melted out or never had snow..??

[kyrawhitworth]

Other ones that are on my list of trash loose SJ peaks to wait for spring snow are Trico, T10, Telluride, 13509

I did Trico dry, up the E ridge and it was fine. However, I did go to T10 afterwards and that wasn't nearly as nice. From T10, I went back toward the saddle with Trico and at some point started traversing the W slopes of T10 to get to Three Needles. Also not fun.
Three Needles wasn't horrible but the gully leading to the summit ridge would probably be nicer with snow. Not sure how the route from saddle to summit would be if there is snow.

Telluride and 509 I did in winter, and with the snow conditions we had they went pretty well.

Emma looked like it could have some really interesting routes from the Telluride side as well.

Emma from Governor on spring snow is a good climb too.


Additions, after looking at Kyra's bicent list:
Cirque was fun with snow. LIdar will send me back to do the other summit though, and I would likely do it with snow again.

W. Apostle with snow is good. I went up the "standard" gully from Lake Ann approach side. Supra and Chicken did a fun looking route and he has a report on that, I believe.

Ramp on Tijeras is fun with snow. Haven't done it dry. All above it when we did it was melted out or never had snow..??

Thanks, Davis! I've heard of that couloir on Potosi and that definitely looks direct.

I will absolutely look into W Apostle as that's one I had to cut short a few summers ago. Lots of good snow routes in yankee boy basin it seems so I'll for sure plan a trip that way. Thank you!

[desertdog]

1+ For Yankee Boy Peaks Emma, Potosi. Gilpin etc. All good snow climbs. Last spring I did Coffee Pot with the intention of adding Teakettle. Once we got up Coffee we lost the motivation for Teakettle because it was a repeat and we were lazy. That said, it looked pretty straight forward, maybe 40 degree slopes over to it. The numbers don't support this but it looked like a long way although without much altitude gain.

Some others I've enjoyed but that don't exactly fit your criteria. V5 from Ophir Pass Road, The Snake on Sneffels, Dreamweaver on Meeker, Martha's on Mount Lady Washington, Refrigerator Couloir on Ice Mountain, Snowdon Peak Naked Lady Couloir.

Have Fun

[ltlFish99]

+1 For The Snake on Sneffels.
We did not ski it, but the climb was a LOT of fun.

[jfm3]

Grizzly Peak looks to have a dope couloir to almost the summit (actually a few choice couloirs!). The standard summer route is not my favorite -- that initial hump up from the valley isn't classic.

Yes it do and I've only done that one in the summer. Other Sawatch ski routes I'm looking at are Turner, Gladstone Ridge, Mountain Boy + Igloo (after indy pass opens).

The northeast couloir (main couloir above Grizzly Lake) on Grizzly Peak is an excellent snow climb. It holds snow well into the summer (I climbed it in early July last year), the approach is short from the Lincoln Creek campground and it tops out very close to the summit. It's somewhat steep near the top and doesn't have too many overhead hazards. And the scenery is great.