Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

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LukeMazza20
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Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by LukeMazza20 »

I am planning on climbing Vestal one day and curious about the free-ability of the Wham Ridge. I have 0 experience trad climbing and would rather prefer to just scramble it with climbing shoes and chalk. I have ample scrambling experience on 14ers and climb V5/5.11 in the climbing gym. Any vestal veterans with an opinion on this? If freeing the Wham is too dangerous, I would most likely just climb it from the back side instead. Thanks!!! :-D
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cottonmountaineering
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Re: Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by cottonmountaineering »

gym climbing does not translate to alpine trad

i'd say if you've free solod the third flatiron that is about what to expect if you stay on route on wham
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zootloopz
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Re: Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by zootloopz »

Right side 5.4 route is very soloable, did it in my Sportiva trail runners. Pretty sure I didn't find the easiest variation either -- I even brought up climbing shoes and didn't feel the need to switch at any point. Scrambling some routes in the flatirons would be the perfect training for it if you're near the front range.
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justiner
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Re: Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by justiner »

It's a personal decision, but I did find the scrambling on Wham very fun and engaging. As far as protecting, the rock is really good and I bet you could protected it with a set of nuts if you decided to, making gear you need to bring pretty streamlined. I did it in trail runners, but a stickier pair of approach shoes may make things a lot easier as well. It's a long way to be in actual tight climbing shoes though and pretty low angle except for the top.

But do not for any reason hike the backside. In contrast, that route is a steaming pile. You'll regret hiking in so far in to inflict such abuse on yourself. Downclimbing it is bad enough.
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Jon Frohlich
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Re: Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by Jon Frohlich »

justiner wrote: Thu Mar 06, 2025 10:40 am But do not for any reason hike the backside. In contrast, that route is a steaming pile. You'll regret hiking in so far in to inflict such abuse on yourself. Downclimbing it is bad enough.
What if you bring the dog?
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(standard disclaimer: 99.9% of dogs should not be on Vestal, that is all)
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hellmanm
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Re: Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by hellmanm »

When in doubt, rope is the way to go. I'm timid and went with a guide, but that peace of mind is really freeing. The main item, though, is that the Weminuche is known for being very rainy. Those slabs to the sky would be a nightmare if they got wet, and if you're soloing it would get dangerous quickly.

Even the backside is a little spicy up high (definitely solo-able, and it's too loose/rockfall-y to place protection, but I was short-roped in when I went and was glad to have been).
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Re: Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by terribletigzy »

I'm tentatively looking to climb Vestal (solo via Wham), Arrow, and the Trinities sometime this summer. I would love to find a partner or group interested in the same itinerary. If anyone is in a similar position to me, shoot me a DM and maybe we can make something happen! I am happy to discuss my past experiences and do an easier climb or climbs to become acquainted before jumping right into Wham Ridge.
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LukeMazza20
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Re: Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by LukeMazza20 »

Thanks for the Advice Everyone! I live close to the flatirons and will plan on training there to see how comfortable I am with soloing at that difficulty level.
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Re: Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by zootloopz »

LukeMazza20 wrote: Thu Mar 06, 2025 12:38 pm Thanks for the Advice Everyone! I live close to the flatirons and will plan on training there to see how comfortable I am with soloing at that difficulty level.
Regency -> Royal Arch -> Buckets is one of my favorite intros (that isnt the 2nd) if you haven't been out there before. But I'd highly recommend finding a partner that is knowledgeable on the area before questing up something on your own. The CMC pocket guidebook is also a helpful tool.

edit: Snowdon's West Buttress is also essentially the same grenadier quartzite as Wham and would be a great warmup if you have the time assuming you took a bunch of the alternate low 5th slabs along the way.
Last edited by zootloopz on Thu Mar 06, 2025 1:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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desertdog
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Re: Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by desertdog »

I used a rope and approach shoes, but I enjoy that part of climbing. There was only one very short section where I thought “I’m glad I’m roped up.” Just bring a rope and break it out if you needit. As others have said it would get ugly if you got caught in weather. The backside is a walk off for the decent, but it was loose and crappy. Can’t imagine anyone trading that for the ascent over Wham just to get the summit. Enjoy, it was one of my favorite climbs!
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Re: Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by Monster5 »

It's only a couple moves of low 5th if on route and dry. In terms of pure technical ability, yeah, just about any active hiker on here can do it.
Exposure, route finding, other parties, choss-ineering, weather, and backcountry decision making are all arguably more important to the decision that we cannot determine from gym climbing strength and a 14er list. Flatirons can help, but frankly, the best thing is building up to it on alpine scrambles. Both Flatirons and alpine scrambling have seen a needless uptick in accidents in Colorado, and the contributing factor is rarely technical climbing grade competence.
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Re: Free or Ropes on Vestal Peak

Post by twhalm »

I did Vestal last year and my party decided to rope up. I also have a lot of experience scrambling in the mountains and am a 5.12 climber in the gym with a decent amount of experience climbing outside.

I led all of the pitches and I think I averaged <3 pieces of gear per pitch and I don't regret roping at all. It all comes down to risk tolerance.

Just be aware that roping up comes with its own risks:
- You will certainly move slower and if you are not aware of your expected pace that can get you into weather trouble
- You will likely experience harder climbing because you can't wander around the mountain as much (not THAT much harder still 5.4 tops)
- You are going to be more tired from the approach
- You have to downclimb the standard route with a bunch of gear weighing you down

All that being said I had a blast doing it roped up. I am simply not the type to commit to a free solo and it was a great alternative.