"Light Mountaineering" Boots?

[madmattd]

In quotes because I think this is what I'm looking for but maybe not? I'm looking at maybe getting something for mild colouir climbs and misc objectives along the lines of Snowmass - probably only getting use in the Spring/early summer. Ideally something that I can do a potentially lengthy approach hike in without hating life - so not something overly stiff (which of course will limit the crampon usefulness...) I'm not looking at steep climbs, ice, etc, and given I'm mostly looking at Spring use, light or no insulation is preferred. Something that will actually keep my feet dry and not wet out on the way down!

I have the Black Diamond Contact strap-on crampons, and I'm not planning to get into anything needing more than those, so step-in compatibility is not important.

In looking around, it sounds like a lighter-style Mountaineering boot (versus the Nepal Cubes/Evos) might fit the bill? Models that have come up in my research numerous times are the La Sportiva Trango Techs, La Sportiva Aequilibrium (there's like 5 versions though...), Salewa Crow - these all have come up in past topics here so I'm hoping I'm on the right track here?

These days I really only use hiking shoes for 3-season (Merrill Moabs) and Vasque Snowburbans (400g insulation) in winter. I do also have a pair of Vasque Breeze boots from before my switch to hiking shoes. None of these options seem that great for my stated use, though I had figured on making the Breeze's work for Snowmass at one time. Really I'm looking to try to get into the mountains a bit more in Spring than I normally tend to, so finding something that will cover that more than just a one-off thing might be nice.

[justiner]

I've worn LS Trango Tech GTX's on some fairly long, multiday trips of 40+ miles with little to no worse for wear on my feet, including some substantial road walks. I find them just one notch above a summer boot in feel, but of course, they are a little bulkier. They don't feel like a mountaineering-like boot to me since as you guess, the sole is much more flexible.

I don't prefer them over an even more flexible trail runner, but they've done the job OK. This includes going from Breckenridge to Boreas Pass and over Hoosier Ridge to Hoosier Pass then hiking back to Breckenridge, hiking from Loveland Pass to Georgia Pass then down again to Breckenridge, and summiting Mount Massive from downtown Leadville. They HAVE kept my feet both dry and warm, so that is a huge plus over trail runners. I haven't worn them in the summer, though.

[climbingcue]

I also like my LS Trango Tech GTX, they are a million times better than the Nepal Evo Cubes on anything except straight up ice climbs or steep couloirs. The Nepals are unusable for me on any long approach. I will be using the LS Trango Tech GTX for all my couloir climbs this spring. Hope this helps you in your decision making. Good luck.

[nyker]

For what you describe, i.e. more mild non winter snow climbs, I still use my older Trango S EVO GTX (had bought a couple pairs back then) which admittedly are hard to find now. The newer Trango Tech GTX seem somewhat similar in size/weight though I have not worn those.
For non-glaciated peaks in warmer conditions (i.e. 15F+) that don't warrant them, they are less bulky and lighter than the Cubes/EVOs which are very heavy at the end of a day or on an endless approach climb and are overkill on many summer climbs. The latter are more waterproof than the Trango's but a coat of waterproofing a few days before fixes that.

I'd add it also depends if you "climb cold" or "climb warm". By experimenting with combinations of pants, insoles, socks and gaiters you can fine tune your warmth on a climb and climb in cooler conditions with a thinner boot with the right accessories.
I've used the Trangos on snow climbs on most of the 14ers I've done in snow including Rainier, Shasta, Whitney and several CO 14ers. I've found they worked best colder (drier) snow vs heavy wet sloshy stuff.

In colder, higher (think Mexican volcanoes) or glaciated mountains, I have found my feet (and body warmer) when using the heavier, more insulated EVOs or Cubes...

[desertdog]

I think La Sportiva is phasing out the age old Trango line and replacing it with the Aequilibriums. I have never owned a pair of the Aequilibriums so I can’t speak for them, but dam they’re ugly!

The LS Trango Tech may fit the bill. I have a pair and like them. They do wear out pretty quickly. Also, they have a lot of flex so if you run into hard snow or ice they will not be ideal. I would say they perform better on rock and styrofoam snow.

Your best bet would be the LS Trango Cube GTX if you can find a pair. They would be perfect.

Another option would be to check out Scarpas. They fit differently than LS. Check out the Charmoz HD.

Good luck.

[Jorts]

I've abused the Crows on a lot of SAR trainings/missions over the last decade and they're still going strong.

https://www.wildernessmag.co.nz/review/salewa-crow-gtx/

If you can, find an outdoor gear store where you can try on the different options. But hard to know if/where you'll develop hot spots until you've broken them in.

[d_baker]

I have a pair of Aequilibriums (sportiva) and I have enjoyed them. And, they're not ugly! Lol
They're good for semi auto or strapon, and have a good lug for grip or kicking steps when I don't have crampons on.

Edit for additional comments:

I have worn my Aequilibriums on snow climbs of Mt Emma, W Apostle, and probably 13,6whatever S of Lightning. Approaches were fine with the boot and don't feel cumbersome to me.
I also wore them on Quandary last fall for the gathering, worn them last week in heavy snow on the incline, and other shoulder swason hikes. No complaints.
I don't recall the 5 different variations of the boot??

[madmattd]

Thanks all, sounds like I'm on the right track here. I appreciate the uses that many of you listed using one of these options for, it's a big help and I know several of you do a ton of this type of outing.

I've never had a huge issue with footwear fit thankfully, but it's also been a long time since I got footwear that actually needed a break-in period so getting the fit right is important. And most of the brands listed in this thread are not ones I've worn anything from before, so I definitely will need to hit up stores to try in-person.

I also wore them on Quandary last fall for the gathering, worn them last week in heavy snow on the incline, and other shoulder swason hikes. No complaints.

I hadn't considered the early season side of things (Nov/Dec), but that's something I could use other footwear options on too, so good call. Not sure why that hadn't occurred to me. I think I wore my winter boots for Fall Gathering last year.

I don't recall the 5 different variations of the boot??

There's at least 4 Aequilibriums - LT, ST, Speed, Top. So maybe not 5, whoops! I was mostly looking at the LT/ST versions.

[ICantHearYou]

I agree that the Aequilibriums aren’t ugly! I have the ST version and I have no complaints. I’ve used them to climb the steep couloir on Thunder Pyramid, North Couloirs on Missouri, and I even used them for top roping ice climbs.

I think Speed and Top are new this year. I would go with Speed if there’s no obvious decline in quality.

[d_baker]

I don't recall the 5 different variations of the boot??

There's at least 4 Aequilibriums - LT, ST, Speed, Top. So maybe not 5, whoops! I was mostly looking at the LT/ST versions.

I have the ST GTX.

[ellenmseb]

fwiw, the traditional strategy for long snowless approaches is to wear a separate pair of light trail runners for the approach, and then change once you hit consistent snow. yes this is more weight overall - but as you know, any kind of boot that accepts crampons, will be somewhat painful and slower for walking on trails. And weight on your feet matters more than weight on your back, so the overall expenditure may be less than making a single boot work for the whole objective.

Now, LS is marketing the Aequilibrium Speed as something that bridges the gap. Reviews claim they run well, and for moderate snow climbs like Snowmass should be good enough. I don't have personal experience with them. fyi there's a LS store in boulder where you can try on any of their footwear.

[zootloopz]

Given you have strap on crampons and don't need insulation, my shoulder season boots that I use are the La Sportiva Ultra Raptor Mid GTXs. Comes in a wide version for some extra toe room. I added a slightly stiffer insole with more arch support. So far they are my favorite boots that I've ever owned.