Lightweight crampons

[skyrme17]

Hi All,
Can anyone recommend crampons that are noticeably lighter than typical crampons, that run in the ballpark of ~1lb per crampon? Are there trade-offs with lightweight crampons? There is a brad out there, called Blue Ice crampons, which are quite a bit lighter. Has anyone experimented with them?

[justiner]

I've always used Kahtoola hiking crampons on my trail runners. Get the steel version, the alu will wear out too quickly.

For those Blue Ice, make sure they're compatible with whatever shoe you're using. Looks like the auto toe bail can be swapped out, but the heel looks like it needs a welt still? That would discount what I use, but probably works for a boot with a welt - even my Trangos (really light boot for mountaineering) would work.

[martinleroux]

I haven't used the Blue Ice crampons, but they look like they're similar to the Petzl Irvis hybrids (steel front piece, aluminum heel piece, Dyneema linking cord, about 20 oz per pair). They're my preferred crampons for steep snow couloirs and glacier travel, and if necessary they can be used for front-pointing on hard ice. https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Crampons/IRVIS-HYBRID

As Justin points out, for this type of crampon you'll need a stiff boot with a heel welt.

[pvnisher]

In my view aluminum crampons are for carrying and steel crampons are for using.

If you plan on mostly carrying them and only using as a just in case, or for short stretches and just need that safety factor, then great.
If you plan on using them for hours, then it's steel.

[Skimo95]

I grabbed a pair of these for bigger day trips and/or shoulder seasons. That being said if you’re just glacier walking or not climbing on rocks aluminum should be good. I don’t have experience with blue ice.

https://us.grivel.com/products/air-tech-hybrid

[Wildernessjane]

Aluminum crampons are perfectly fine if you are just planning to use them on snow. I have a pair of Black Diamond Neve strap-on crampons that I use primarily when I’m skiing. I’ve used them on steep snow numerous times. I wouldn’t hesitate to use them on a glacier either as long as I’m not planning on being on rock. The major downside is they would not be very durable for walking on rock or scrambling. They are one pound, four ounces for the pair. It looks like they are no longer in stock but I’m sure you could find something similar. Sorry, I’ve no experience with Blue Ice.

[nyker]

My normal "go-to" crampon is the Grivel G12 steel. I've used G10s and Black Diamond Contact Strap also, but tend to like the more secure 12 points and like the rear welts (assuming your boots has them). They are heavier but figured the extra weight is warranted as they give me more comfort.
For lightweight options, I've used Grivel Air Tech and an older Petzl model, both Aluminum crampons.

As Wildernessjane mentions, If I am on a mixed route alternating between a lot of bare sections of ice, snow and rock, I'll always chose steel.
I'll only use aluminum if I know I am on snow 100% of the time (or grassy slopes) and/or using for only shorter sections of an otherwise mixed route drier/snow free lower down.
Aluminum is about half the weight of steel, but probably less than half in average life/durability / keeping points sharp, etc.

I will though don microspikes in early season on some routes, especially in the northeast when boulders and rocks start becoming egg-shelled with ice or on heavily trafficked trails with hard packed snow, where traction is needed but a crampon isn't needed yet or even able to find purchase on such thin ice.
These are the lightest but won't be as helpful in "big snow" on a "big mountain" where a more aggressive option (heavier) is preferred.

[Jorts]

skyrme, what's the intended use you're looking at?

pvnisher's right about steel vs aluminum. But I've gotten plenty of miles out of my aluminum ones during those long days in the spring-summer transition season where you might have to ascend or cross the occasional snowfield. They work well with trail runners. I ascended the Bell Cord in aluminum crampons last July during a link up of Pyramid with the Bells. Heavy boots and crampons would've been prohibitive to the way we were moving through the terrain.

Steel are heavier but more reliable and durable. Work best with stiffer footwear.

Aluminum: Petzl Leopard (strap, 11.6oz/0.72lb per pair)
Steel: Black Diamond sabretooth (hybrid, 2lb per pair)

If you have the means and plan on getting out a lot on snow, spring for both types and make a selection dependent on your intended use that day(s).

IMG_3863.jpeg

[skyrme17]

The intended use would be for ice/snow with occasional mix with rock. I use a Grivel G12, which have worked fine, but are on the heavy side for a long day. I understand the trade offs between aluminum and steel. The Blue Ice main innovation seems to be the replacement of the central metal section with a polyester strap.

[Jorts]

Sounds like a cross between the Leopards and a more standard crampon design.

Originally I wrote “It seems like the central metal bar adds a lot of rigidity and thus security on steeper snow and ice. I’d think a plastic strap would compromise that.”

But looking at the design on blue ice’s website and thinking about the fact that a ski boot or full shank mountaineering boot already has central rigidity built in, if they’re able to be fully secured to your toe and heel as independent pieces - as with autos and somewhat with hybrids, you wouldn’t need the redundancy of the central bar for rigidity. My $0.02

[desertdog]

Check out CAMP they make some light weight crampons. I have a pair that I use on easier snow climbs https://www.camp.it/d/us/us/outdoor/category/03.

[justiner]

But looking at the design on blue ice’s website and thinking about the fact that a ski boot or full shank mountaineering boot already has central rigidity built in, if they’re able to be fully secured to your toe and heel as independent pieces - as with autos and somewhat with hybrids, you wouldn’t need the redundancy of the central bar for rigidity. My $0.02

I feel there HAS to be a reason for that bar for general mountaineering/ice climbing. I feel that a Steve House or something would have adopted a no-bar system on some of his climbs from... um: a while ago. Perhaps because dyneema will eventually tear when walking on rocks or filleted by the other crampon? Considering how much of a pain in the ass that bar is to balling up snow, we'd have some sort of quick step-in system by now.

If you want some more ideas, Smiley's been taking these crampons and making them even lighter:



which is good mad scientist fun,