Little Bear Hourglass Question

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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daway8
Posts: 1514
Joined: 8/24/2017
14ers: 58  27 
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Trip Reports (80)
 

Re: Little Bear Hourglass Question

Post by daway8 »

Finally got around to updating the West Ridge Indirect report after some feedback from CaptainSuburbia. Still don't have the landmarks/directions quite as refined as I'd like but I did add some potentially useful feedback. For those who are interested in this alternative route that bypasses the Hourglass but don't want to reread the full trip report, I'm copy/pasting below the updates made and the combo photo added. Some day down the line I might eventually revisit this to try to refine this route a little more to make it as clear/easy as possible.

UPDATE: After writing this TR I had some discussions with CaptainSuburbia who provided some useful insight. I’m adding a tidbit here plus a combo photo and more feedback below in the middle of the Gaining the Ridge section. Feedback from CaptainSuburbia: “Just a heads up. You crossed over to standard well below where I did. There should've just been an easy ledge that dumps you out onto standard with no orange rock or chockstone to climb. Your path seemed to work fine albeit a little more difficult and possibly harder to find on descent.”

UPDATE: per the comments by CaptainSuburbia in the update at the start of the TR, there is reportedly an easier way to get to the summit without following this orange rock band to the chockstone. I’ll include another quote from him and a conglomerate photo illustrating the area. Unfortunately, I’ve not yet been able to conclusively pinpoint this spot in a zoomed out image – maybe on some future trip…

From CaptainSuburbia: “Yes, there is a landmark where I turned. It's the gash at 13737 as mentioned in your west ridge direct report. My route goes right to the base of that and turns. On the descent part of my second trip report there is a pic of it as I pass by. Also, my first report has a pic of it with my buddy looking up it. We had fully intended to climb it that day until I found the escape ledge to the Southwest face. Also, on my second report there is a pic entitled "ledges" showing my group at the base of the gash and the pic before is a pic of the ledges that I took while standing at the base of the gash. It's a pretty easy stroll from the gash to the southwest face. In both my reports I call it a headwall/chimney.”
daway8_Gash_left__CaptainSuburbia_Chimney_mid__CapS_Ledges_right.jpg
daway8_Gash_left__CaptainSuburbia_Chimney_mid__CapS_Ledges_right.jpg (168.79 KiB) Viewed 1194 times
Photo caption: At left is The Gash from my West Ridge Direct report which CaptainSuburbia calls a chimney is his report (middle photo). Match the lump on his photo of the Ledges at right to the lump in the middle.
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