Wham Ridge without a rope

[mattpayne11]

Yeah that down-climb off the back is nasty. Hard to follow any route, lots of guess-work and back-tracking. We finally found a small canyon that was able to lead us down, but it was not easy to spot or find. Lots of exploring. Was thankful we did that in good weather, could not imagine being on that stuff in rain or thunder. Yikes!

[bdloftin77]

Found this 13 year old thread as I was researching Wham Ridge on Vestal. Marmot72 posted a great trip report on doing Wham Ridge without a rope. He found a workaround that bypasses the crux and is significantly easier (see the 6th picture in his report). Knowing that there was a bypass available gave me the confidence to make the trip out to Vestal Basin and to give Wham a go. After giving it a good look, I did go up the crux, but also subsequently downclimbed and reclimbed the bypass just to see what it was like. It's definitely a great option. A lot less exposed than the 5.4 crux. If someone made it to this point below the crux, they can probably take the bypass without many issues (class 3/4, with possible 5.0 moves depending on the route you take).

Here's a photo I took. The crux is the slanted, sunlit face at center/left of center. There's a ramp just below it on the right. To the right of this ramp - this is where you go to bypass the crux. Continue for less than 40 feet, then make a U-turn - take a hard left, make a short climb up the steep rock to a ledge, then backtrack along the ledge til you're now above the 5.4 Wham Ridge crux. The dashed line is approximate... there's a closer upclimb that's a bit trickier, and one a little further away that's easier. Both reach a ledge that brings you back above the crux. Both upclimb options weren't extremely far away from the crux.. maybe less than 40 feet out of your way?

Above the crux, there's still lots of fun climbing to be had! Class 3, 4, and low 5th await depending on your route. And stunning views at the top.

Arrow, Vestal via Wham, and the Trinities were one of my favorite trips in the mountains. Spectacular views, and awesome climbing on Wham Ridge.

Wham Ridge Crux and Bypass_1.jpg

[daway8]

Awesome, thanks for the great beta!

You might consider posting a mini trip report with a link to that earlier one so it's easier for folks to dig up these details in the future... Great stuff!

[bdloftin77]

Awesome, thanks for the great beta!

You might consider posting a mini trip report with a link to that earlier one so it's easier for folks to dig up these details in the future... Great stuff!

Thank you! I might go ahead and do that. Wanted to share the bypass info so other scramblers who were hesitant about Wham's crux might be encouraged. Had I not known about the bypass, I'd have waited to go with a rope partner before checking it out. But now I at least had the option to scope out the crux before deciding to ascend or to bypass. The route is so fun! Especially when immediately followed by the Trinities traverse. I can see why everyone raves about it. Arrow is pretty cool too, though not quite as steep/class 3 initially as I was expecting. The Trinity traverse is fun, especially going up Trinity and East Trinity.

[Jorts]

Is this adjacent to the double crack pitch? When I was up there back in June I wasn't sure what was actually considered "the crux".

[zootloopz]

Here's a photo looking down from what I felt was the crux...

Screenshot_20240925-111603.jpg

[Kiefer]

Is this adjacent to the double crack pitch? When I was up there back in June I wasn't sure what was actually considered "the crux".

When we climbed it, Brian and I had the same thought. Nothing really stood out except for the exposure.

[bdloftin77]

Is this adjacent to the double crack pitch? When I was up there back in June I wasn't sure what was actually considered "the crux".

I think so? If you follow the western ridge part of the Wham Ramp, this was definitely the trickiest section. It's near the top of the ridge part of Wham Ramp before the smooth-ish ramp breaks up into more textured rock along the ridge below the false summit. If you stayed left more on the ramp vs further right along the ridgeline, then you might have either passed left of this section, or climbed up it without seeing the notable ramp on the right.

I didn't take any head-on pictures of the crux unfortunately, but I have a slightly angled one from the base, and one from above.

IMG_6231_S.jpg

IMG_6249_S.jpg

[bdloftin77]

Here's a photo looking down from what I felt was the crux...

Looking at the ridge/left of your photo, I think you are above and further east of where I was at. In my picture looking down at what Marmot72 and I thought was the crux, there's a big cleft on the left. This cleft seems to be at the left of your photo, but right of the big pink loose rock.

I know if you stay more in the middle-ish of the ramp (Center Shift variation) vs the right/ridge (ridge variation/easier route), it reportedly goes at about 5.6. Whereas the right seemed fair to call about 5.4, which can be bypassed at 4/5.0 to its right. So what you thought was the crux of the ramp could very well be harder than the crux near the ridgeline. I'm not sure I'd be brave enough to stay on the ramp and left of the ridgeline further up without a rope! I'd probably end up okay with rock climbing shoes, but I think something like that would be above my current personal risk tolerance having family.

I did alright with my Merrill Moab hiking shoes, (even up the ridge crux), though rock shoes would have made that more comfortable. You start out with two good footholds and a couple decent handholds. But to reach the next right handhold, I jammed my left foot diagonally into a crack, hoisted myself up, and was able to get that right handhold and then another handhold above to the left. Fairly short... probably less than 15'? Maybe 10'?

Staying on the ridgeline, the smooth ramp started to break up either right above or not far above its crux. If you stay more in the center of the ramp, closer to the Center Shift line, the ramp continues further up at more mid class 5.

Others who are better versed feel free to chime in though. For the ridge variation, I followed the basic beta of stay right on top of the ridge, bypass both the crux/ramp below the crux on the right, and then find your way to the false summit/summit from there.

IMG_6701_s.jpg

[yaktoleft13]

https://www.14ers.com/usercontent/trips ... 2409251221

Here's the crux. That alcove/crack

[bdloftin77]

https://www.14ers.com/usercontent/trips ... 2409251221

Here's the crux. That alcove/crack

This picture too, right? The cleft and rocks left of Brandon near the shadow match my picture above the crux. (as well as the group of rocks on the far right, and the triangle rock left of my foot, part of which shows up in Yaktoleft13's picture)

Kudos to Brandon on that being his first San Juan summit, by the way. Heck of an intro to the San Juans!

Yaktoleft13 from TR Above Crux.png

IMG_6249_S.jpg

[Jorts]

Here's a photo looking down from what I felt was the crux...



Screenshot_20240925-111603.jpg

Yeah, that's the double crack.