What length Ice axe?

[d_baker]

Ok TrollGrass, I'll bite and I'll add I know I will only lose because you just don't give up on the obvious.

Your one and only link & brief "quote" that mentions a curved shaft is to REI and when you open that link, it primarily talks about the difference between a traditional alpine axe and technical axe (i.e., ice tools).
Maybe I'm wrong, but the curves on the modern alpine axe isn't quite the curve on a tool. I don't have my tools or modern curved alpine axe with me, so I can't compare.

[d_baker]

Also, it's interesting to read some of the links you provided because it's good insight into where you get your primary edu on this matter, because some of what you have written here in this thread is verbatim to what I read on those links.

[TallGrass]

Also, it's interesting to read some of the links you provided because it's good insight into where you get your primary edu on this matter, because some of what you have written here in this thread is verbatim to what I read on those links.

Gee, all saying the same thing, so if they said water is wet and I say water is wet, would you assume I'm basing it off something I read?

But let's step back and look at our respective posts in this thread.
What's the overall gist of yours?
Mine are trying to help the OP.

[d_baker]

But let's step back and look at our respective posts in this thread.
What's the overall gist of yours?
Mine are trying to help the OP.

Don't trust TallGrass, TrollGrass, TallWeed, TallGas, or any other alias he goes by.
There, I've helped the OP. Take it for what it's worth.

Under Alpine Axes in TallGrass's link he posted above:
"The design combines a straight lower shaft (to facilitate plunging) and a slightly curved upper shaft (giving an easier swing with better clearance). These axes tend to be 50 to 60cm long. The slightly shorter length allows for a more comfortable and accurate swing when used in ‘climbing’ mode. However they are still comfortable to carry and use in ‘walking’ mode."
The combination of two traits all in one axe (with a slight curve)!! Oh my gawd!

Ok, I'm out. You win TG.
But please do follow Fire's suggestion and go out and climb some snow and gain the experience.

Disclaimer
I don't claim to be an expert and I don't have multiple years of climbing experience on a variety of terrain abroad. My snow climbing is 15+ years of CO based snow climbs as well as my ice climbing on top rope! Yup, I'm a top roper.

[Monster5]

You know Tall grass is a hopeless case when he starts using REI beginner blogs to defend his position against people who are well beyond beginner guides and use boot ax and ax belays where it matters rather than in a snow drift next to camp.

The differences in plunging or setting ice ax anchors or belays between a slightly curved and straight ax are negligible, particularly when compared to the variability of snow conditions. However, the advantages of a curved ax are more tangible in moderate to steep per the OP.

[TallGrass]

REI beginner blogs

"Contributing Experts - Michael Silitch is a guide certified by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). Joe Pasteris is a climbing category product specialist and REI Expert Advice Editor at REI Co-op headquarters in Kent, Wash."
rei.com/learn/expert-advice/ice-axe.html

But go ahead with another round of chest beating and dissing, if you think that's what the OP values and looks for in advice.

[Scott P]

But moot points, because I bet all of this would be over the top for the op since he/she isn't sure what to look for in an axe.

The above sums it up well. For vertical ice climbs, the selection of ice tools might be of importance, but for someone starting out on basic snow climbs (the person asking is very much a beginner), not so much.

I've never attributed my successes or failures on basic snow climbs to the curve or lack thereof of my ice axe. Sure, there are some advantages of using certain axes in question, but it really isn't going to make or break a climb.

For a beginner looking for an ice axe, I'd focus on getting the proper length and leave it at that.

Of course owning the axe is no substitute for knowing how to use it, so focus on learning to use your axe properly.

[dannyg23]

I’m in the “it doesn’t matter” camp here, with respect to the mild curve being suggested. Just buy the cheapest one at REI or whatever and get some experience with it. I would go for a 60cm if you’re under 6ft and maybe consider going up to 65cm if you’re taller. The common mistake, and the one I made when I bought my first axe, is buying a really short one cause you think it looks cool. Either buy an ice tool (x2), or a mountaineering axe. A mountaineering axe should have a bit of length to it, I think. Nothing too crazy long, but it’s not an ice tool.

Credentials: I ounce helped Monster5 out of a tight jam with a straight shaft ice axe belay. We climb together often and I’m not worried when I see that his axe has a slight curve to it though.

I don’t think it matters for basic to mildly technical mountaineering. Just user preference. You get security in a belay from the snow conditions and the axe length that makes it into the snow. Why y’all want to argue about these types of things for a beginner buying his first axe is beyond me.

[Monster5]

"Contributing Experts.

I noticed you're ignoring the part Baker brought up that your experts are discussing ice axes versus tools, and their summary doesn't apply to your inanity about axes vs axes whatsoever. The difference between plunging these two styles is negligible.

And no, an ax is not a tent stake and snow is not dirt.

But go ahead with another round of chest beating and dissing, if you think that's what the OP values and looks for in advice.

90% of your posts turn into this. Common denominator being... you?

[spiderman]

Lots of good options for length. I personally evolved from shorter to longer for my type of trips. My key recommendation is to find the lightest one possible. I have never had an ax fail in the field; instead my biggest regrets are when I left the tool in the car because I didn't want the extra weight, and then found myself on unexpectedly nasty snow or ice. I try to bring one except when I am nearly 100% sure that I couldn't possibly need it

[nyker]

I'm 5'9". Is a 60cm straight ice axe okay? If not, what length ice axe is right for me for medium/steep inclines?

While there is no hard law/rule here, there are some generalities that many have discussed here...

The right length for YOU will also depend on the type of "medium/steep inclines" and your climbing style. Most people who do a lot of climbing will have more than one axe for different situations, maybe even for the same trip. While two people can be the same height, torso length, leg/pant inseam and arm length will also dictate ideal axe length for you.

Traditionally, mountaineering axes have been straight shafts and recommended lengths appear to have decreased over time. I've found this even in the last 15yrs. When asking the same question then, several folks at mountaineering shops a couple guides said I should get a 70cm straight axe and a few even suggested 75cm then. (I'm 5.8, but have longer legs, shorter torso). For most routes now, I carry a 66cm axe which seems to fit me better now. For a normal straight shaft axe, 55-60cm is too short for me and I find myself reaching too much on slopes under 40 degrees which then makes me move in an off balanced way, not ideal. While often you can just use poles on slopes to 35 degrees or so, if the snow is firm or iced over, good luck trying to stop yourself with poles if you slip.

I like to use my axe as a walking aid on steep slopes so the longer length helps facilitate that. A longer shaft also provides better leverage for self arrest, a key reason why you'll be carrying an axe in the first place. I recently picked up a new 66cm Grivel Airtech Evo with a slight curve in it at the top making it leaning towards hybrid technical, which seemed comfortable and looking forward to seeing how this performs in Spring snow.

In "tighter" or steeper routes, I'll bring a shorter curved "tool" which is useful and can bite into ice better but I don't feel I could self arrest the same with a short tool, nor glissade if that is something you want to do, but in icy sections in the Adirondacks they are helpful. Shorter tools also limit belaying options since there is less shaft to plunge into snow and use as an anchor.

For a non technical straight shafted axe, a classical way to measure proper axe length was to stand up straight, hold the axe by its head and if the spike reaches below your ankle, then the axe is too long for you.

[seano]

Just buy the cheapest one at REI or whatever and get some experience with it.

This. Get something cheap, then buy something else if/when you have more experience. A basic axe doesn't cost too much, and will serve you for the rest of your life. I'm around 6', and first bought a 75cm because it was on sale. I still prefer it for standing glissades, but carry a shorter semi-technical tool these days (a Petzl Aztarex) because it is lighter and easier to attach to a small pack. This choice has cost me some shin-meat from a failed self-arrest into talus.