Best Routes for Winter Beginners

FAQ and threads for those just starting to hike the Colorado 14ers.
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AnnaG22
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Re: Best Routes for Winter Beginners

Post by AnnaG22 »

RyGuy wrote:
An ice axe is a very important piece of equipment, hence my mentioning it being a lifesaving tool. However it's critical to know how to use it, before actually trying to use it. You're way more likely to injure yourself trying to play with it if you don't know how to use it, than actually being able to protect yourself with it. (Same could easily be said for Crampons)

If you are JUST getting into hiking in snow, and are on beginner routes mentioned, it's not essential, assuming you are staying on the route. That said, if someone wants to really get into winter hiking, spending the time learning how to use it and practicing on a low risk area like Saint Mary's is absolutely critical.
Hopefully that helps clarify a bit.

-Ryan
To piggyback this statement:
Don't glissade without an ice axe and knowing how to properly utilize it for self-arrest. I've seen people almost crack their heads open on Quandary because they were glissading and attempted to brake with poles. (The poles did not work and the folks missed rocks sticking out of the snow by mere inches.)

Watching YouTube videos on how to self-arrest isn't good enough. It takes practice to get that motion into your muscles.
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"I get scared sometimes—lots of times—but it's not bad. You know? I feel close to myself. When I'm out there at night, I feel close to my own body, I can feel my blood moving, my skin and my fingernails, everything, it's like I'm full of electricity and I'm glowing in the dark—I'm on fire almost—I'm burning away into nothing—but it doesn't matter because I know exactly who I am." from The Things They Carried
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jmanner
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Re: Best Routes for Winter Beginners

Post by jmanner »

AnnaG22 wrote:LOL having some flashbacks to your Ellingwood purpleflake there, manner?
Not necessarily, I've had plenty of lovely Purple Snowflake trips. I actually was thinking of my delightful exploration of solo climbing the loft direct with snow and ice on it last year. Fun times.
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Re: Best Routes for Winter Beginners

Post by JColk »

Thanks All! Now I have some routes and ideas on what to focus on to improve my skills!! Sniktau was actually the first peak I ascended once I got the thirst of peak bagging (as I'm sure it is for many), and I'm certain it will be a great start for winter hikes. I will make sure to try and get some Avy training as soon as possible so that I can identify the risks and I will make sure to get a beacon, an ice axe and some friends who can teach me how to self arrest! From there, I will start looking into the other suggested routes - I bet this thread keeps me going all winter!

Thank you all so much for imparting your knowledge to a newbie! :) I love the mountains and while before my season would end with the summer, I feel my muscles are ready for the winter challenge. Now to get my skills up to par! :)
"I've got it set in my mind, I'll be a mountain disguised this year..." - Umphrey's McGee \:D/
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Re: Best Routes for Winter Beginners

Post by SoCool »

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ECF55
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Re: Best Routes for Winter Beginners

Post by ECF55 »

Thought I would just resuscitate an old thread instead of creating a new one...

Before the coronavirus crisis, I was planning on being in Colorado Springs this week for a conference and had given myself an extra day (today, Saturday 4/4/20) to fool around on the mountain, if conditions were accommodating. Alas, that didn't happen this year.

Two weather resources I was looking at before the cancelation included Weather Underground and Mountain Forecast
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Sawatch Region avalanche danger is assessed as moderate today.

For the more experienced winter climbers, what would you assess today's experience would be? I expected that Quandary was going to be very cold, moderately windy, reasonably sunny with some clouds at elevation. There hasn't been a ton of snow in the past week, so under normal conditions, I would have assumed to have encountered moderate crowds and an established trench. I have microspikes. Would I have needed flotation? I would have dressed in synthetics and layers. I have heavy leather boots...but what are the best strategies for keeping toes warm?

Basically, does today's conditions seem about as ideal as I am thinking, given early April?

Thanks!
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Re: Best Routes for Winter Beginners

Post by CaptainSuburbia »

Yes, it looks ideal! Always take snowshoes for a winter climb.
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Re: Best Routes for Winter Beginners

Post by Squirrellysquirrel »

Great suggestions, I agree with most listed here.

Quick tips: I *try* to avoid areas in late spring that have potential to be swampy for extended sections by mid morning or afternoon. Start early to maximize hard packed snow especially in spring time. If hiking Sherman be mindful of old mind shafts, and best not to veer off trail, it can be illusive (sometimes fresh snow occludes the trail and you can follow bad tracks), follow the recommended route from gpx, etc.

Most importantly: I always check in with this site for snow conditions and avalanche intel for the area I’m hiking:
https://avalanche.state.co.us/

Definitely recommend avy courses and reupping frequently. Get good gear and carry for all types of snow: kitten teeth, gaiters, poles, snow shoes, balaclava, and warm layers are basic. Bear teeth and ice ax for more intermediate hiking.

Personally, I find winter hiking more rewarding due to solitude and the visibility of animal tracks.
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Re: Best Routes for Winter Beginners

Post by TaylorHolt »

Good questions ECF55. I usually go to the weather tab on this site and click on peak forecasts (https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/weather.php). Select the peak that you want to climb: Quandary Peak, and scroll down to "Forecast Graphs". This gives you an hour-by-hour forecast of the summit (or a point near the summit). The top three things that I look for in order are:

1) Precipitation Percentage
2) Wind Speed
3) Temperature

Those are the three weather factors that will make your day miserable in order.

As for today's forecast on Quandary, I'd say it looks like a good day to attempt a summit. It's probably a top 30% forecast for this type of year. Unless the forecast is really bad, I'm usually in favor of giving it a shot and seeing how it goes. The actual weather can vary from the forecast quite frequently in Colorado.

It's good that you checked the avy forecast before going. I'd suggest everyone take some sort of formal avalanche training before going out in any winter or spring terrain (not sure if you have any). I always check the avy forecast before a trip, and I also use the slope angle feature on CalTopo and/or Gaia to analyze the slope angle during my entire planned route (https://caltopo.com/map.html#ll=39.3989 ... ,0.25&a=sf).

As for your gear question, layers are your friend. I bring a 35-40L pack in winter to hold all the layers that I bring. I have a synthetic baselayer, fleece pullover, lightweight puffy, and heavy hard shell jacket for my upper body. I wear a baselayer, mountaineering pants, and gaiters for my bottom layers. I'd also suggest mountaineering boots with a sock liner and smartwool socks for my feet. Summer hiking boots will get your feet cold and wet, even if they say waterproof. Bring toe warmers and hand warmers if you need them.

I'd also say that anytime between December and May, anticipate needing snowshoes or AT skis, unless you have a conditions report or other beta that says otherwise. Quandary is one of the few exceptions as there is usually a trench in place because of its winter popularity (unless there has been a large recent snowfall).
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Re: Best Routes for Winter Beginners

Post by CheapCigarMan »

Went to California Peak via the Zapata Falls Trailhead. Forecast said it was going to be mostly sunny. Instead it was thick dark clouds that covered half the mountain. While the San Luis Valley was beautiful sunshine.
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Re: Best Routes for Winter Beginners

Post by ECF55 »

Great information. Thank you for the feedback. Here's to a speedy recovery from pandemic and economic depression.
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Re: Best Routes for Winter Beginners

Post by Cereal »

I would like to cast a vote for Marble Mountain A as a great winter route for beginners; I did it this past February:
  • Adds a non-negligible, but very doable, approach distance due to Winter TH (lack of) access
  • Likely need to break trail (with flotation) up the ridge, but not too steep
  • Likely some route-finding up the ridge, but overall fairly straightforward
  • Some exposure to wind/elements above treeline, but not for too long since it is only 13,266'
  • Great payoff: views of Crestones, winter route on Humboldt, Blanca group, etc.
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