Class 4 Shoe Recommendations

[seano]

I find that the terrain for which a trail runner is not going to cut it and climbing shoes are overkill is kind of mythological. And so approach shoes are kind of silly to me. This is just my opinion though - and I admit that I place an undue importance on scrambling relative to most people. There are plenty of climbers I know that find approach shoes valuable. So... I don't think you will be able to successfully solicit a worthwhile recommendation from anyone else. You just need to see what you like.

I second all of this -- I personally don't know of a lot of terrain where I would want something between well-chosen trail runners and actual rock shoes, and find approach shoes to suck for running and snow travel. But I've scrambled with plenty of people who think otherwise, so you just have to experiment for yourself.

[NovaDevi25]

FWIW a few of my friends love their approach shoes for Class 4's.

[Eli Watson]

I love my Mutants for almost anything and everything, but if the day is less about miles and more about scrambling I like Bushidos. My feet haven't read Born to Run, so they still like a shoe with more drop for longer miles days. If sensitivity over terrain is more of a priority than distance, I prefer the lower profile Bushido. Both of these shoes have served me well in low 5th class terrain.

I [...] find approach shoes to suck for [...] snow travel.

Question for the forum related to the quote: I have read through the grapevine that approach shoes handle walking in crampons better than an aggressive runner due to their stiffer sole and closer shape to a traditional boot. I've worn crampons in boots plenty, and I've worn universal attachment crampons up Snowmass with my Mutants. That got me by for the day, but it was far from a good fit. I don't have any experience in approach shoes so I have yet to test this theory for myself, but I welcome any feedback on the subject if this is something worth looking into. Thanks!

Edit: approach shoes, not approach shows

[k_fergie]

I love my Mutants for almost anything and everything, but if the day is less about miles and more about scrambling I like Bushidos. My feet haven't read Born to Run, so they still like a shoe with more drop for longer miles days. If sensitivity over terrain is more of a priority than distance, I prefer the lower profile Bushido. Both of these shoes have served me well in low 5th class terrain.

I [...] find approach shoes to suck for [...] snow travel.

Question for the forum related to the quote: I have read through the grapevine that approach shoes handle walking in crampons better than an aggressive runner due to their stiffer sole and closer shape to a traditional boot. I've worn crampons in boots plenty, and I've worn universal attachment crampons up Snowmass with my Mutants. That got me by for the day, but it was far from a good fit. I don't have any experience in approach shows so I have yet to test this theory for myself, but I welcome any feedback on the subject if this is something worth looking into. Thanks!

My Scarpa TX4s are my winter "boots" because they are stiff enough to take a crampon decently well, at least for light snow climbing duty. And the full leather upper is waterproof when waxed properly, so when paired with a gaiter, my feet stay reasonably dry. I don't have a real winter boot mainly because I ski/splitboard 95% of the time when snowy, but this setup works for the occasional foot travel in snowy conditions. To the proverbial "your" reading this, your mileage may vary, please don't freeze your feet if trying something this unconventional for winter peaks, test out on smaller days first.

Like others have said, I don't like the TX4s for super long days (I'm talking to you gore beatdowns...) because my feet ache at the end. I like them for shorter flatiron style scrambles. For 95% of my summer 13er endeavors I wear my low top hikers, Danner Trail 2650s. They don't do quite as well scrambling as a dedicated approach shoe, but are plenty good for the stuff I get myself into, up to low 5th.

[Wildernessjane]

I [...] find approach shoes to suck for [...] snow travel.

Question for the forum related to the quote: I have read through the grapevine that approach shoes handle walking in crampons better than an aggressive runner due to their stiffer sole and closer shape to a traditional boot. I've worn crampons in boots plenty, and I've worn universal attachment crampons up Snowmass with my Mutants. That got me by for the day, but it was far from a good fit. I don't have any experience in approach shows so I have yet to test this theory for myself, but I welcome any feedback on the subject if this is something worth looking into. Thanks!

I used Salewa approach shoes with strap-on crampons on the snow bridge on Granite Peak and felt very solid. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this to just anyone but if you are solid in your cramponing technique they should be good for snow crossings and easier climbs. Mind you, I wouldn’t do this with my TX3’s though (too soft).

IMG_4788.jpeg

[Monster5]

Check out Kahtoola KTS crampons for either shoe category. Worth the weight.

Question for the forum related to the quote: I have read through the grapevine that approach shoes handle walking in crampons better than an aggressive runner due to their stiffer sole and closer shape to a traditional boot.

[seano]

I [...] find approach shoes to suck for [...] snow travel.

Question for the forum related to the quote: I have read through the grapevine that approach shoes handle walking in crampons better than an aggressive runner due to their stiffer sole and closer shape to a traditional boot.

That might be true, but approach shoes typically have dot rubber, which has zero traction on consolidated snow. When you're navigating a spring mix of snow and rock, it's nice to be able to rely on your shoes' lugs. I distinctly remember a climb in the Tetons where I was happy with an axe and Sportiva trail runners, while my partner was chipping steps to avoid sliding out in his 5.10 Guides. The same goes for wet turf: you'll have a bad time without lugs.

Seconding Monster5: KTS crampons are the bomb. Practice your French step and they'll get you all kinds of places without needing boots.

[Wildernessjane]

I [...] find approach shoes to suck for [...] snow travel.

Question for the forum related to the quote: I have read through the grapevine that approach shoes handle walking in crampons better than an aggressive runner due to their stiffer sole and closer shape to a traditional boot.

That might be true, but approach shoes typically have dot rubber, which has zero traction on consolidated snow.

I have several pairs of approach shoes in my closet right now and only one pair has the traditional old school dots. There are plenty of other options available on the market.

[pvnisher]

Approach shoes like the 5.10 guide tennie with climbing rubber are the bees knees on rock.
And absolute trash in the snow, mud, carpet, grass...

As good as they are on rock, I actually found "approach shoe" to be a misnomer, as they aren't great on the approach. They're instead great on easy high 4th or 5.easy

[justiner]

They're instead great on easy high 4th or 5.easy

In the context of rock climbing, 4th/easy 5th sometimes is the approach.

In the context of hill walking, the "approach" is a hike, so wear what you hike. The crux would then be on the same level of technical difficulty as an approach to a rock climb.

So that's why I wear approach shoes when scrambling easy rock climbing terrain - that's what they're made to do.

[ultimategully]

I recommend the La Sportiva TX3s: they are the complete package to me for summer hiking/scrambling. I have worn them on everything from second class talusy hiking, to easy fifth class climbs (like the standard routes on the first 3 flatirons). These things really shine on technical rock terrain and feature sticky rubber with an awesome toe for when you get nervous on smaller edges. I wear them on all summer hiking routes that have even a whiff of technical and/or steeper rock sections. https://www.lasportivausa.com/tx3.html

My $0.02 on sizing, if you are using approach shoes with a priority more for climbing technical terrain rather than hiking, consider sizing down a half size for better edge control. That worked for me.

[pvnisher]

My druthers would be a climbing rubber toe to the ball of the foot, with traditional vibram rest of the sole