Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

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andrewhamilton
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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by andrewhamilton »

John Prater wrote: Sun Jul 10, 2022 7:57 pm
tortilla wrote: Sun Jul 10, 2022 7:21 pm Is that the final pitch of the prow?
Not really. I believe the route Andrew mentioned and that Dan took today goes directly from the Challenger/Kit saddle up the NW face of Kit.
That’s right. Only try it if you are comfortable with exposed class 4. Right from the low point in the saddle between Kit Carson Challenger there is a class 5 head wall that blocks easy access to climb straight up toward Kit Carson. To get around this go left (north) and descend a few feet to find a class 3 section that will allow you to climb up and back to your right(south). Now just enjoy some very fun crestone class 3/4 climbing as you zig and zag looking for the best way to the top. Not easy to back off of though so take a good look and know your ability before trying it!
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glenmiz
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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by glenmiz »

Here are stats from his start of Pikes moments ago. You can see earlier peaks on my previous posts yesterday and the day before if you're interested. Good luck Dan and go get that record!
Hobbs 2022-07-11.JPG
Hobbs 2022-07-11.JPG (110.27 KiB) Viewed 953 times
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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by andrewhamilton »

In my opinion heading to Pikes after the Crestones is the best decision, for many reasons, in both supported and unsupported versions of the record. Cave dog told me one of his big regrets was not getting Pikes after the Crestones. It was his original plan and i forget why they didn’t do it. For him they ended up saving it for the last day, and wanted to get it before finishing on longs but it was a really long drive and then they a lot of lost time in traffic driving to Longs.

In the supported record i like to target easy peaks for night time climbing and pikes is perfect after the Crestones, plus I’m always injured after four days on the rough terrain of the San Juan’s and Sangres and the nice smooth path of Pikes (relatively speaking of course) is helpful to get all the tendons and joints a little break, because in the supported record you just don’t get enough recovery time for your body. (That is one benefit of unsupported is that you are forced to take sleep breaks which helps your body recover for the long term)

For the unsupported record it is tough because you have to sleep, so he can’t just drive up and do pikes in the night. So it is going to cost him half this day and cause a late start in the southern sawatch. Or perhaps he could spend the rest of the day driving to the elks getting in position for a good start there. What he chooses probably depends on the weather forecast.

Sorry i talk too much i can talk about this stuff for hours…and it would be awesome if he ate the peanut!
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tortilla
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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by tortilla »

andrewhamilton wrote: Mon Jul 11, 2022 6:48 am
John Prater wrote: Sun Jul 10, 2022 7:57 pm
tortilla wrote: Sun Jul 10, 2022 7:21 pm Is that the final pitch of the prow?
Not really. I believe the route Andrew mentioned and that Dan took today goes directly from the Challenger/Kit saddle up the NW face of Kit.
That’s right. Only try it if you are comfortable with exposed class 4. Right from the low point in the saddle between Kit Carson Challenger there is a class 5 head wall that blocks easy access to climb straight up toward Kit Carson. To get around this go left (north) and descend a few feet to find a class 3 section that will allow you to climb up and back to your right(south). Now just enjoy some very fun crestone class 3/4 climbing as you zig and zag looking for the best way to the top. Not easy to back off of though so take a good look and know your ability before trying it!
Right on, I will have to give that a go. Thank you for the info
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glenmiz
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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by glenmiz »

Keep talking Andrew.

As those of you who know me might expect, I'm keeping a projection for his finish time. Separating foot time from transition time, there's a fairly consistent ratio of Dan to your 2015 FKT for foot times for the same groups of peaks. Looking at the transition time, there is a fairly consistent relationship between Dan's self-supported and your supported times (Dan's being higher due to all of the things that have been discussed). Whether this holds for the rest of the groups/transitions, I'm not sure because Dan's link-ups versus yours for the remaining peaks might be different from the San Juans and Sangres. But using this logic, as long as the intangibles don't interfere, I'm optimistic for Dan's chances for the record.

By the way, Dan's loop yesterday, in terms of foot time, was similar to yours in 2015 (although in the opposite direction).
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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by Jorts »

glenmiz wrote: Mon Jul 11, 2022 7:26 am Keep talking Andrew.

As those of you who know me might expect, I'm keeping a projection for his finish time. Separating foot time from transition time, there's a fairly consistent ratio of Dan to your 2015 FKT for foot times for the same groups of peaks. Looking at the transition time, there is a fairly consistent relationship between Dan's self-supported and your supported times (Dan's being higher due to all of the things that have been discussed). Whether this holds for the rest of the groups/transitions, I'm not sure because Dan's link-ups versus yours for the remaining peaks might be different from the San Juans and Sangres. But using this logic, as long as the intangibles don't interfere, I'm optimistic for Dan's chances for the record.

By the way, Dan's loop yesterday, in terms of foot time, was similar to yours in 2015 (although in the opposite direction).
Like Andrew alluded to though, Pikes day for supported is a big recharge day cause of all the driving and sleeping on the road. It’s the opposite self-supported. Driving taxes you and makes you feel like you’re wasting time not on the trail.

By the way, can’t believe you down climbed the needle headwall Andrew. You crazy.

Looks like monsoon moisture’s creeping in the next several days. Hopefully it holds off some this afternoon.
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andrewhamilton
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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by andrewhamilton »

Jorts wrote: Mon Jul 11, 2022 7:30 am By the way, can’t believe you down climbed the needle headwall Andrew. You crazy.
Yeah i get a little shaky downclimbing that section. Technically it’s not that difficult and it is pretty solid. But unfortunately the easiest holds are over where the exposure is greatest, so you are looking down 2000 feet into south colony lakes. I think Roach calls it “Airy”.

I like doing Humboldt first, however in 2015 the monsoons were insane. The day before up in the Huerfano drainage we had been caught in the storm that caused the landslide that closed the Lindsey trailhead for several years. We had to abandon two support vehicles and run down the road a couple of miles with my gear in duffel bags in order to get out of there. So I wanted to get the Crestone traverse done early in the day and deal with the rain and lightning while on Humboldt.

Oh the good ole days!
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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by andrewhamilton »

I just checked the mountain forecast for Shavano. Looks pretty ugly today. Both afternoon and night forecast showing plenty of rain. Dan said he might check in with me today if he does I’ll pass on his plans to the group here.
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ClimbingFool
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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by ClimbingFool »

I just want to say that I appreciate all the discussion on this, especially from those of you have done some of these massive undertakings and better understand the risks and strategies that Dan is facing. Following along from out of state and wishing him well!
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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by quinnwolf »

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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by glenmiz »

I advise against any sort of chicken sandwich at Pikes' summit...
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Re: Self Supported 14er Record Attempt

Post by LetsGoMets »

quinnwolf wrote: Mon Jul 11, 2022 8:58 am Is this the same Dan Hobbs?
https://www.startribune.com/extreme-fea ... 228562931/
Yes.
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