Peak Fifteen alternative route idea

[Wildernessjane]

After a lot of research, we ended up taking the Garrett and Martin variation. We really enjoyed this route. The leader is basically soloing but the rock was solid and there were places to put in an anchor and bring up the followers. We had a 60m half rope but I honestly don’t remember how long the rappels were. My gut says you’ll want a 60m but I’m not 100% sure on that.

I had a pretty detailed conditions report where I detailed the gear I used: https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/peakstat ... cnum=23794

Route variation: https://www.summitpost.org/fifteen-topo ... 3/c-333596

[Jorts]

Hey Andrew, this route looks intriguing. With Lidar I'm assuming terrain stats are fairly accurate. Looks like the crux would just be entering it lower down just above NY Ck. The alternative I labeled below doesn't go over 46 degrees. Wonder how the rock would be... is it a bowling alley?

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[Wildernessjane]

Hey Andrew, this route looks intriguing. With Lidar I'm assuming terrain stats are fairly accurate. Looks like the crux would just be entering it lower down just above NY Ck. The alternative I labeled below doesn't go over 46 degrees. Wonder how the rock would be... is it a bowling alley?
Screenshot 2025-06-03 at 3.35.08 PM.png
Screenshot 2025-06-03 at 3.38.26 PM.png
Screenshot 2025-06-03 at 3.26.35 PM.png

FYI that original post was from 2019. Who knows though, maybe he’s still looking for beta on that alternate route. I was responding to the more recent questions.

[Jorts]

Ahh, missed that. Hoping to get in there this fall. Know if that couloir has been used??

[Chicago Transplant]

I agree with Jane on the GM route (then again I am the one who posted that topo image to Summitpost). The 5.4 ish crack was solid and short, climbing was not too difficult even though its basically a free climb for the leader. My understanding of the 'standard' route is that its basically freed as well but much longer and with poor rock and a long traverse to get to it. Looking at the crack we climbed when we got there it seemed the much better route and I thought it was enjoyable!

I cannot speak to the couloir that goes between Fifteen and Turret though, sorry!

[Marmot72]

I did the standard in 2020 and didn't find it troublesome. We free'd it on the way up and only needed a 60 m rope for rapping down.

We had considered an ascent of Turret from Fifteen (I thought if SeanO could go down it, perhaps we could go up it). None of the three us were excited by the prospect upon a first-hand view.

Turret fr Fifteen.jpeg (179.97 KiB) Viewed 152 times