Mt. Foraker

[JohnWilliams]

HAHAHA NIce! when are you panning on going? Maybe we'll see you on the Rib.

[ascent+descent=fun]

No ... I kid, kind of. I think it will be something like "climb really really high, sleep in a bed" I think we are planning on mid may

[Kiefer]

Im probably headed up there this spring to climb the rib or cassin for "research", and we were thinking about doing that on the way out after we are fully acclimatized. Sounds like its doable in one or two days if you are acclimatized/strong. What are your plans?

Yah, we're headed up there next spring. Prolly leave on or near May 17th (Tuesday). Some good deals to be had on TAT and K2 if you book with them by years end.
Gal I spoke with at the NPS station in Talkeetna last week said it's been a dry summer. Not sure I like the sound of that.
Plan is to, like Steph said, head up to 11K or 14K camp to acclimate, return to Camp #1 then trek up the NE Fork to the Rib and start climbing. The trek up the NE Fork scares the sh*t out of me.
As also with your plans, we'll be tackling Mt. Foraker after a couple days rest back at Camp #1 then head up via Sultana Ridge. After having already been at 16,000+ feet for 2-3 days,
acclimation on Foraker should'nt be an issue.

Climb the Rib or Cassin? That's a HUGE gap in difficulty.
How many on your team?

Colin,
I'll get a hold of you. I'd be interested in hearing what your buddy has to say about Sultana.

Foraker is on my list. I got a good look at it on a Denali climb. The only issue on the standard Sultana route is a long traverse that seems to have a lot of potential for slides.
G

I've seen pictures of the ridge crest of Sultana and even though slides are a huge concern, I'm hoping the ridge itself isn't crevassed! It's one of the longest ridgelines in Alaska plus I can imagine the views of the Kahiltna/Denali from that vantage would be breath-taking!
There's always the option of climbing the SE Ridge but the icefall danger at the beginning of the route creeps me out too much. Plus, Sultana Ridge is a classic route anyway!

Rich,
I've e-mailed Gerry a few times with questions concerning publishing & in all responses, he's always short, curt and to the point. I'll e-mail him again.

[Scott P]

I've seen pictures of the ridge crest of Sultana and even though slides are a huge concern, I'm hoping the ridge itself isn't crevassed!

Actually, the ridge is apparently very crevassed.

From Super Topo; Climbing Alaska:

The [Sultana] ridge crest, however, is heavily crevassed, necessitating extra care and route-finding.

Anyway, good luck to you. Foraker has been on my list for many years, but I usually can't get time off the right time of year (I'm not hard core enough to climb it in winter). This June I actually finally do get to go to Alaska, but I'll have a 7 and 9 year old with me, so we will stick to lower peaks.

I would suggest emailing Colby Coombs.

[ascent+descent=fun]

Climb the Rib or Cassin? That's a HUGE gap in difficulty.
How many on your team?

Yea hopefully the winter will reestablish the snowpack up there. If the NE fork will go then the cassin is the main goal, but if it seems too crevassed or just too terrifying in general, we will descend the rib from 14 and climb back up. There is also the option of the many routes going directly up to the west buttress proper from the top of squirrel hill if nothing else will go. So the plan is to bring the full arsenal of stuff for multiple opportunities. It is just me and my partner, wouldnt want any more for the cassin.

[bergsteigen]

Stan Justice of the Alaska Alpine Club (https://sites.google.com/a/alaska.edu/a ... pine-club/), has climbed the Sultana Ridge. You may try emailing him for some info. He may still remember me from my time there, but it was awhile since I left Alaska and the AAC.

[mountainfreak241]

I am putting together a small team for the West Rib and Sultana Ridge in May/June next year. Just wanted to throw that out there if anyone is interested or has good route beta - it is much appreciated!

[COtoAK]

I'd like to know when you guys are making it up here to do Foraker. I'd be more than willing to meet for lunch if you are going to be closer in my area.
Apparently there is only a statistical 20% success rate on it. I suppose that's why more people go for Denali rather than Foraker.
I hear that Stan Justice is a super nice guy and he would definitely be of assistance to you if you could get ahold of him. He's well known here in the Fairbanks community for running and climbing.
There is also another superb mountaineer in the area. His name is Colby Coombs and he's part of Alaska Mountaineering School. http://www.climbalaska.org" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; . He's definitely a wealth of information and has a book written on it that could help with this particular ascent and climb.