Windom now an “Easy Class 3”
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BillMiddlebrook
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Re: Windom now an “Easy Class 3”
As for going Windom-to-Sunlight, the standard crossover is much easier and safer. Descending the northwest face only saves a little distance, and you end up intersecting the main Sunlight route in the same area anyway.
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Istoodupthere
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Re: Windom now an “Easy Class 3”
After doing Windom last week, myself and a couple of people who summited around the same time agreed that it seemed class 3.
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madmattd
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Re: Windom now an “Easy Class 3”
I recall there being a discussion on here last summer shortly before I was in the basin about Windom and most people agreeing it plays as an easy C3. We (group of 2) agreed when we were there, and that was at the end of a long day where we did the other 3 14ers before finishing with Windom, and we were looking for the easiest lines we could find. Much deserved re-ranking!
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DaveLanders
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Re: Windom now an “Easy Class 3”
After reviewing this thread, and the Windom Sunlight connector thread, I decided to do a little research. While I like blaming social media for everything just as much as the next person, in this case that blame isn't justified. The Northwest face of Windom has a long history. It's in Borneman and Lampert (1978) and Gerry Roach's 14er guide (1st edition 1992). The 9th edition of Ormes (also 1992) recommends staying high in the basin to connect Windom and Sunlight although it doesn't explicitly describe the Northwest face.
I descended the Northwest face in 1986 and 1988. The 1986 descent was on snow, and I don't remember what 1988 was like, but I don't remember it as being a big deal.
It's certainly possible that the face has deteriorated since the 80's and I'm sure caution is required, but I wanted to correct the history behind this.
I descended the Northwest face in 1986 and 1988. The 1986 descent was on snow, and I don't remember what 1988 was like, but I don't remember it as being a big deal.
It's certainly possible that the face has deteriorated since the 80's and I'm sure caution is required, but I wanted to correct the history behind this.
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BillMiddlebrook
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Re: Windom now an “Easy Class 3”
You're right. The NW face is considered a route, but as a snow route, and the main line has been dubbed the "Widowmaker" couloir. Roach did include it in each edition, but I believe he calls it a snow route option. Lou Dawson did the same, rating the face as an extreme ski and advanced snow climb, and not recommended in summer. Plenty of skiers and riders still descend that face, and it's a good line. In summer? Not so much.
Now, if it were the only option, we'd all have to make it work, and we'd be stuck with the added danger, loose terrain, and the impact we force on the peak. But it's not. And the lower, Class 2 crossover doesn't result in much of an elevation loss when connecting—just a bit of added distance after returning down Windom's west ridge. The reasons I've chosen to discourage descents of that face in summer are simple: the lower way is easier and less dangerous. Since my main goal is to help people climb 14ers and come home safely, I feel obligated to highlight the issue.
If people want to descend it, that's their choice. I recommend helmets, unlike the crew I saw the other day.
Now, if it were the only option, we'd all have to make it work, and we'd be stuck with the added danger, loose terrain, and the impact we force on the peak. But it's not. And the lower, Class 2 crossover doesn't result in much of an elevation loss when connecting—just a bit of added distance after returning down Windom's west ridge. The reasons I've chosen to discourage descents of that face in summer are simple: the lower way is easier and less dangerous. Since my main goal is to help people climb 14ers and come home safely, I feel obligated to highlight the issue.
If people want to descend it, that's their choice. I recommend helmets, unlike the crew I saw the other day.
Fascism, xenophobia, racism, and ignorance are not inevitable—they are choices. And so are compassion, understanding, and justice. Educate yourself and choose better.
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ClimbingFool
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Re: Windom now an “Easy Class 3”
I connected Windom from Sunlight in July of 2021 and tried to minimize elevation loss since my legs were tired from also climbing the Eolus pair earlier that morning. From memory, I ascended somewhere between the blue connector and the red 'X', likely close to that large snowfield in Bill's image. It was manageably loose, and I likely didn't save any time over the connector route.