El Diente-Wilson Traverse (Ridge Direct + or -)

[JohnKLovesMtnGoats]

Hello friends!
I am spending the majority of the next few months climbing mountains in Colorado.
Saved up so as to be able to take off from working until November or so.
I have been doing lots of training hiking in Colorado and at high elevations for past few weeks to months; I retreated briefly to New Orleans for some family stuff but will be back in Colorado very soon.
I have done almost 20 14ers so far, including some of the class 3 and 4 and two of the "Great Traverses".
I would like to do my 3rd traverse in a couple of weeks, conditions permitting, in the form of the El Diente-Wilson Traverse. Of course, this early in the season the possibility of necessary retreating before the summit is a possibility, but I feel it would be a good training exercise even if such were to occur.
I have seen the video and recent trip report on the "ridge direct" variation and am enchanted by this idea...though it certainly seems to be intense and I would need to feel pretty confident in my ability to reverse each step to continue along that route, particularly through the Organ Pipes and Pin Point.
The video is pretty terrifying but I have generally found that these things are a bit more doable in real life.
If not, turning around and doing the standard traverse is always an option.
I would like to do this in mid June, perhaps getting to Kilpacker Trailhead about June 11, 12, or 13.
Anyone interested in joining me please let me know!

[Monte Meals]

^" I would need to feel pretty confident in my ability to reverse each step"

Just be aware, conditions can change DRAMATICALLY !

When I did that traverse several years ago, a MONSTER lighting storm blew up when we were
about 1/2 way across (constant sparks from my ice axe strapped to my day pack to the back of my helmet !)

The challenge is more than just the technical terrain.

[daway8]

Ridge Direct on this route is awesome but beware people have died doing even the standard traverse. If you go truly ridge direct the entire way you'll hit some class 5. Lingering snow/ice would make this far more treacherous, and there are some spots where, if you lost your nerve and tried to bail out, you could get into real serious trouble.

Not saying don't go - just don't underestimate this route, especially not in mid-June. I would download multiple gpx tracks from people who used different routes so you can always know where you are in relation to easier options if needed. See the gpx Library on this site.

[nyker]

I would leave open the option to do the lower traverse, which will avoid some of the class 5-sh moves on the ridge direct, though you'll still tackle some of the difficult terrain towards each summit.

Or given your feeling that you're not sure if you're ready, just push this off a month and do it in July when you shouldn't have any snow issues or at least less snow issues than mid-june, and do some class 1-2 routes earlier that have less consequences in potentially snowy conditions.

[dubsho3000]

I'd say don't do it, especially not in June. On June 23 2013 I took a nasty fall on the ridge and broke my talus bone in a compound fracture. I suffer from arthritis to this day and I'm frankly lucky to be alive. Eventually I'll have to fuse my ankle and maybe amputate my foot some day.

I feel the main draw to the route is the looseness and the associated danger. I don't think it's worth it. I'd do anything to have the chance to go back and NOT do that route again. FWIW, it was my second time on the upper traverse. It's a death trap. People get injured or killed on it every year, ON ROUTE. In June the rocks are less stable due to the recent snow and ice that moved the rocks around.

Do the lower traverse and enjoy many more days on the trail.

[JohnKLovesMtnGoats]

Wow, I appreciate all the responses!
I will delay or modify my route.
I think I have too much excitement / impatience about starting the season too early.

[daway8]

...I feel the main draw to the route is the looseness and the associated danger...

Just for clarity, as someone who absolutely loved this route, looseness is never a draw for me - I hate loose routes.

What I loved about this route - meaning the ridge proper version - is how solid the scrambling was overall, especially the top spires on the Organ Pipes and going up Pin Point from the El Diente side. Difficult but solid is the draw (see my TR below if interested in more detail).

There is absolutely lots of loose stuff on the ridge, but much of it is avoidable - especially if you're on the very top. Sometimes just being a step or two to the left or right makes a tremendous difference. But you're absolutely right that this is not a route to take likely given the numbers of injuries and fatalities that have occurred.

And 100% agree that June is not a good time to do this route unless you're extremely comfortable with being able to do class 4 and possibly some class 5 depending on how true to the ridge you stick, or where the snow/ice might force you to go.

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... m=tripmine

[daway8]

Wow, I appreciate all the responses!
I will delay or modify my route.
I think I have too much excitement / impatience about starting the season too early.

Good call - this route will be a lot more fun (and a lot safer) when it's dry.

Plenty of other less dangerous routes/peaks you can warm up on this time of year...

[nyker]

I'd say don't do it, especially not in June. On June 23 2013 I took a nasty fall on the ridge and broke my talus bone in a compound fracture. I suffer from arthritis to this day and I'm frankly lucky to be alive. Eventually I'll have to fuse my ankle and maybe amputate my foot some day.

I feel the main draw to the route is the looseness and the associated danger. I don't think it's worth it. I'd do anything to have the chance to go back and NOT do that route again. FWIW, it was my second time on the upper traverse. It's a death trap. People get injured or killed on it every year, ON ROUTE. In June the rocks are less stable due to the recent snow and ice that moved the rocks around.

Do the lower traverse and enjoy many more days on the trail.

Oh man, sorry to hear of your accident and lingering issues with your foot. Hope you're able to recover one day from this.

[seannunn]

I would leave open the option to do the lower traverse, which will avoid some of the class 5-sh moves on the ridge direct, though you'll still tackle some of the difficult terrain towards each summit.

Or given your feeling that you're not sure if you're ready, just push this off a month and do it in July when you shouldn't have any snow issues or at least less snow issues than mid-june, and do some class 1-2 routes earlier that have less consequences in potentially snowy conditions.

+1. I don't know your skill set, but I know when my brother and I summitted big Wilson there were people coming over from El D on the direct route. Didn't look like something that I wanted anything to do with, and it was perfect summer conditions. Some people I am sure do fine on something like that. Only you know what you can or can't do. But to repeat what someone else posted, people have perished on the high traverse, including one just before we were out there last summer.

Sean Nunn
Peculiar, MO