Trip questions and tips!

[Jeremias18]

My dad and I (both very fit) are doing a 3-week roadtrip and the main goal will be climbing mountains. I climbed Quandary peak and James peak last year in May, and some other peaks in the Alps with my dad.

The trip date is April 30th —> May 19th

We are planning on doing Mt. Whitney’s Mountaineer’s route (if we get the permit). (In California)

Other than that, what are your suggestions for 13-14,000 feet tall mountains? We are planning on being in Colorado for 1-2 weeks so maybe 5-7 peaks?

And also, any things I should be aware of? Do we need permits? What kind of rental vehicle would be best?

ALSO! This may be a stupid question, but is there ANY ice climbing in May in Colorado?

Thanks!

[Marmot72]

Plenty of ice in CO in May -still plenty of snow on top of it. Compared to Whitney, you’re looking at much shorter approaches that are still snow covered, vs the long, dry hiking from Sierra trailheads.

Different wilderness areas (eg Maroon Bells) require permits for camping.

[randalmartin]

Anything in that time frame is either a snow climb (Couloir climbing) and/or mash potato snow for the approach hike. There are a handful of 14ers I would consider doing in that time frame and they are generally the more difficult ones that I prefer to do as a snow climb. Little Bear and Snowmass which I wouldn't recommend without knowing your skills since being fit is just the baseline. Maybe Torrey's via Emperor Couloir or Tuning Fork as a snow climb. Honestly a pretty bad time to be planning a trip for high peaks unless you were wanting to do snow climbs.

[Jeremias18]

: Honestly a pretty bad time to be planning a trip for high peaks unless you were wanting to do snow climbs.

Yes absolutely snow climbing was the goal! Are there any other 14 ers (or 13 ers) you would recommend on top of Torrey’s peak? It sounds like you know what you are talking about!

Cheers!

[Jeremias18]

I was thinking about doing Grizzly, Torreys and Grays peak. Maybe Mount Bierstadt, Blue Sky and Pikes Peak (and something else too). Of course it all depends on the road closures though.

Plenty of ice in CO in May -still plenty of snow on top of it.

Awesome! Which ice climbing spots would you recommend, and are there any top-rope possibilities?

Thanks!

[dwoodward13]

I was thinking about doing Grizzly, Torreys and Grays peak. Maybe Mount Bierstadt, Blue Sky and Pikes Peak (and something else too). Of course it all depends on the road closures though.

As far as roads:
Bierstadt (Guanella Pass) has an opening goal of Memorial Day weekend, sometimes its earlier/later depending on snowpack. If closed add about 3mi RT
Blue Sky (Summit Lake) will be closed all of 2025 due to road construction.
Grizzly from Loveland Pass won't have any issues
G/T is unlikely to be open that early all the way from the standard route. Unless you are thinking from Loveland then it won't be an issue.
Not familiar enough with Pikes from Crags, but Barr would be open year round.

For all of these you can look at old 'trailhead reports' over several years to get an idea of where you might be starting.

[nyker]

Are you planning on doing Whitney before you come to Colorado or that same period? If same period, coupled with the driving and travel needed, that won't leave you much time to do much in CO.

Either way. As others said there will be snow in CO on most routes of most peaks. If inclined to do so, maybe hit the routes that are better done in snow (IMO); Little Bear as an example or Snowmass

Whitney then will be easy to get a permit; up until Apr 30 it is the non quota season so permits are very available (you still need one, but believe you just self-issue) but call the Forest Service there.
I've climbed Whitney in April in the past, expect snow possibly on entire trail. But, this is a great time to climb there if you like snow, also expect ~ 1% of the normal people on the trail vs summer/Autumn.

[Jeremias18]

Are you planning on doing Whitney before you come to Colorado or that same period?

Either way. As others said there will be snow in CO on most routes of most peaks. If inclined to do so, maybe hit the routes that are better done in snow (IMO); Little Bear as an example or Snowmass.

We will fly from Finland to LA, and then from there climb Whitney if possible. After that we will drive to Colorado and spent the remaining time there!

From the trip reports I have seen so far, most of the ascents have been 2-day trips, camping somewhere before summiting. Is this a norm in Colorado for the 14 ers and 13 ers in winter/spring? I remember summiting Quandary and James in a day with no issues (they are the easiest though) so any other peaks? Of course if that is not smart, then we will either bring our tent or rent one.

I do understand that due to road closures the travelled distance will be greater than in summer so overnight camping might be necessary.

Thanks!

[nyker]

Depends on the peaks you choose, some are doable in one day with snow while others will likely require overnight camping especially those with approach roads that may be closed due to snow. Whitney may or may not be doable in a day trip at that time, that in part will depend on snow conditions, how acclimatized you are and your fitness.

[Marmot72]

So if you are driving to CO from CA after doing Mt Whitney, I would hit up the San Juans, as they are the first peaks you will come to and offer many accessible opportunities in spring. Around Ouray, the Sneffels group beckons. You won't be able to drive all the way up to Yankee Boy Basin, but you can still get reasonably far up the road to make Sneffels a possible long day trip. Teakettle and Potosi are also great peaks accessed from that basin.

Further east, accessed via US Highway 50 (which might have spring one-lane road closures), a trip to Lake City gets you easy access to Wetterhorn, and also to Handies, or the lower but more interesting American Peak, which is gained by one of several couloirs. (The couloirs are east facing and the basin gets plenty of sun, so an early start is important.)

Some other options could be to approach the San Juans from the south, passing through the Four Corners area. The LaPlatas (Hesperus, Lavender, Moss) right prominently here, although I'm not sure how close you can get to them in early spring. But going north from Durango toward Silverton, the 12er Engineer Mountain is an aesthetic and approachable objective from Coal Bank Pass, as are the higher but gentler Sultan and Grand Turk farther north

Based on your itinerary, I assume you'll fly home from Denver, so making a trip to the northern Front Range for either Longs Peak or one of several of the Indian Peaks from the Long Lake/Brainerd Lake recreation area hold promise for a great outing or two.

Be sure to check out caic (Colorado avalanche information center) site for conditions when you arrive. Good luck!

[seano]

My dad and I (both very fit) are doing a 3-week roadtrip and the main goal will be climbing mountains. I climbed Quandary peak and James peak last year in May, and some other peaks in the Alps with my dad.

The trip date is April 30th —> May 19th

We are planning on doing Mt. Whitney’s Mountaineer’s route (if we get the permit). (In California)

Other than that, what are your suggestions for 13-14,000 feet tall mountains? We are planning on being in Colorado for 1-2 weeks so maybe 5-7 peaks?

And also, any things I should be aware of? Do we need permits? What kind of rental vehicle would be best?

ALSO! This may be a stupid question, but is there ANY ice climbing in May in Colorado?

Thanks!

Colorado snow sucks in May below treeline, where it turns to bottomless mush for much of the day. Be prepared to sink in even with snowshoes. If I were you, I would spend more time in the Sierra and less in Colorado. The high Eastern Sierra trailheads should be open by early May. From Onion Valley, Gould (easy), Dragon (spicy), and University (more challenging) are good climbs. From South Lake you have Agassiz, Thompson, and some others. From North Lake there is Emerson.

I would also spend some time between the Sierra and Colorado, since driving straight through is long and miserable (I've done it many times). There are plenty of things to see in between, including Red Rocks near Las Vegas (Bridge Mountain and many other routes), Zion (many sandstone scrambles), and the La Sals near Moab.

[Marmot72]

Dr Dirtbag makes an excellent point and the timing of your trip is an excellent time to spend in the Utah desert country. All sorts of great scenery around Escalante, and a visit to the “Needles District” of Canyonlands, south of Moab, remains one of my favorite hiking trips.