Blanca/Ellingwood in winter

[dustinfox132]

I'd like to go for Blanca/Ellingwood here in a few weeks. Right now I'm thinking May 18th, but I'm flexible if the weather is looking good. Anyone done these in winter with any advice on what to expect? I've done easier 14ers in winter (Grays, Quandary, etc), but this would be the hardest winter climb I've done so far. I'm wondering how much to worry about avy danger and what to expect this time of year as far as likely conditions. Would appreciate it, thanks!

[Logan5280]

Snow can generally get pretty sloppy in May depending on the place; however, with flotation, decent weather, and some perseverance, hiking at this time can be possible. The unpredictability of snow coverage at this time can mean that you could encounter both deep post holing and bare ground, so even though it's possible, mid to late spring hiking can often be a bit more of a chore than other times. Take a look at May Blanca and Ellingwood trip reports to see what you're in for; in nearly all of them there's still significant snow, with the peaks being absolutely caked in some years. Crampons, axe, and knowledge of how to use them on steep snow are necessary for these peaks in the spring. Additionally, the approach is long enough that camping a night on the way in is likely advisable. The weather is pretty unpredictable in spring, so check forecasts diligently, but be prepared for snow, rain, and blazing heat reflected off the snow (eye and sun protection is critical). Ideally, pick a clear, cold night to get a decent freeze, and start your summit day early in an effort to prevent post holing. Wet avalanches are possible this time of year, so check the CAIC forecast and plan for a very early start in order to be down before the snow warms up too much. If you're dead set on these peaks, then with proper planning and skills, these peaks are definitely possible in May, though I'd honestly recommend many other peaks in the Sawatch and Front ranges before Blanca/Ellingwood in the spring. The long approach and (in my opinion) fairly un-aesthetic climb suggest that many more of the Front Range/Sawatch classic snow routes may end up being more fun.

[rijaca]

Winter ended a month ago. It's slush and mud season.

[jrbren_vt]

Winter ended a month ago. It's slush and mud season.

I will never subscribe to or understand that philosophy that is so rampant in the climbing community that winter starts on the solstice and ends on the equinox. Make no mistake, it's still winter above 10K'. This is probably the best definition of the end of winter I have ever seen : https://www.joespondvermont.com/ice-out.html

[Skimo95]

Winter ended a month ago. It's slush and mud season.

I will never subscribe to or understand that philosophy that is so rampant in the climbing community that winter starts on the solstice and ends on the equinox. Make no mistake, it's still winter above 10K'. This is probably the best definition of the end of winter I have ever seen : https://www.joespondvermont.com/ice-out.html

The temperatures and chances of survival this time of year are much higher compared to calendar winter in my opinion.

[XterraRob]

I will never subscribe to or understand that philosophy that is so rampant in the climbing community that winter starts on the solstice and ends on the equinox. Make no mistake, it's still winter above 10K'. This is probably the best definition of the end of winter I have ever seen : https://www.joespondvermont.com/ice-out.html.

It's just a standard that was set, and one that a lot of people have agreed with (myself included), with the understanding that conditions can vary across the ranges and times of the year.

Although you have some people who get hyper egotistical about calendar winter ascents, who also deride others for nailing calendar winter ascents during drier, less wintery years.

[rijaca]

Make no mistake, it's still winter above 10K'.

I spent all day yesterday above 10k, I can assure you that it is slush and mud season.

[CaptainSuburbia]

The C2 couloir is probably your best bet for getting Ellingwood/Blanca in spring.

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... m=tripmine

[dustinfox132]

Snow can generally get pretty sloppy in May depending on the place; however, with flotation, decent weather, and some perseverance, hiking at this time can be possible. The unpredictability of snow coverage at this time can mean that you could encounter both deep post holing and bare ground, so even though it's possible, mid to late spring hiking can often be a bit more of a chore than other times. Take a look at May Blanca and Ellingwood trip reports to see what you're in for; in nearly all of them there's still significant snow, with the peaks being absolutely caked in some years. Crampons, axe, and knowledge of how to use them on steep snow are necessary for these peaks in the spring. Additionally, the approach is long enough that camping a night on the way in is likely advisable. The weather is pretty unpredictable in spring, so check forecasts diligently, but be prepared for snow, rain, and blazing heat reflected off the snow (eye and sun protection is critical). Ideally, pick a clear, cold night to get a decent freeze, and start your summit day early in an effort to prevent post holing. Wet avalanches are possible this time of year, so check the CAIC forecast and plan for a very early start in order to be down before the snow warms up too much. If you're dead set on these peaks, then with proper planning and skills, these peaks are definitely possible in May, though I'd honestly recommend many other peaks in the Sawatch and Front ranges before Blanca/Ellingwood in the spring. The long approach and (in my opinion) fairly un-aesthetic climb suggest that many more of the Front Range/Sawatch classic snow routes may end up being more fun.

Hey thanks brother I appreciate the details. Yeah we're planning on an overnight, bright and early start. All good info here, very helpful

[dustinfox132]

The C2 couloir is probably your best bet for getting Ellingwood/Blanca in spring.

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... m=tripmine

Awesome I'll check that out. Thank you

[dustinfox132]

The C2 couloir is probably your best bet for getting Ellingwood/Blanca in spring.

https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... m=tripmine

Any specifics as to why? I've been looking it up and it looks great, fun, etc. Just wondering what particularly you think is best about this for spring. Thanks!