Training for Rainier

[davebks]

Hi, I am signed up for a trip late June. Doing the standard route.
I assume I should train like any other peaks? hike a ton, carry heavy packs, elevation gains, weights, cardio, etc?

any need to practice crampons on ladders? it looks like if something opens up they put down boards on the ladders so maybe dont need to practice that one?
thanks!

[GregMiller]

Both times I've done Rainier, physically I felt quite prepared by climbing 14ers every weekend. By the month of my trips, I was doing two 'big' days in the mountains each weekend, and definitely felt like our team was able to pass a lot of other teams on the mountain due to fitness level. I didn't specifically train cardio, or anything, just lots of hiking, and trying to push pace when already acclimated.
I believe I've mostly seen ladders with boards. I'd just say be confident/competent on crampons, and you should be all right. Are you going with your own team, or guided?

[sigepnader]

Both times I've done Rainier, physically I felt quite prepared by climbing 14ers every weekend. By the month of my trips, I was doing two 'big' days in the mountains each weekend, and definitely felt like our team was able to pass a lot of other teams on the mountain due to fitness level. I didn't specifically train cardio, or anything, just lots of hiking, and trying to push pace when already acclimated.
I believe I've mostly seen ladders with boards. I'd just say be confident/competent on crampons, and you should be all right. Are you going with your own team, or guided?

I agree with Greg. A lot of hikes. I would also be on the stairmaster with my pack on a few times a week. The ladders did have boards on my trip. Be comfortable in crampons, have a strong core, and be prepared not to sleep the night you’re in the hut. It’s awful.

[desertdog]

Rainier is not that tough physically especially since you can get some altitude training in CO. I thought the hardest part was the descent...9,000 feet + - down, ouch!

For Rainier, I climbed lots of 14ers, ran sprints, did uphill water carries and strength training. Since then I've climbed some higher mountains and have developed a more formal training plan using both www.uphillathlete.com and www.mtntactical.com as training sources plus climbing a lot. Uphill is more to cardo and Mountain Tact more strength. Both have training plans targeting Rainier. I combine the programs to suit the mountain I am going for. The prices for plans are very reasonable. I would check out both sites.

The better shape you're in the more fun you will have!

[GregMiller]

...and be prepared not to sleep the night you’re in the hut. It’s awful.

I'll say, I slept pretty well in a tent, and Camp Muir is in a pretty nicely sheltered spot. Lots of folks up there in non-4-season tents that did just fine. (we were in a 4 season, which still wasn't THAT heavy).

[Conor]

I swear by TFTNA, aka uphillathlete.com. I've only ever done the cardio portion and some basic core work. But, I've schlepped a big pack from 14.3k to 16.7k and had very little problem doing it. That was after hitting around 18k' on a couple other peaks the days prior. I never felt soreness in my muscles.

[davebks]

great info, thanks. I will check out those two sites. I have climbed in both Nepal and Peru, as well as stuff in Colorado, etc, so I am not new to crampons, but this winter I can do some refresher days. I am going late June so ill have time to do some spring climbing too.

My goal is to just get out as much as possible. I figure the best training is to just go have some fun on the trails. even shadow canyon, s arapahoe peak, etc are great training hikes.
i have two kids under 4 so it can be tough (especially on my wife), but I want to be in the best shape (for a 42 year old dad who feels 18) I can be.
Time to shed the baby weight. this is my triumphant return to climbing now that we are out of the baby phase for the most part.

[GregMiller]

I hear kids make great training weights.

[pvnisher]

Sounds like you're already aware, but yes, if needed, include diet into your plans.
Losing 10 or more lbs of body weight costs a lot less than buying gear that will shave 10 lbs. And you'll be in better shape from the process.
Note that it's very hard to gain muscle while simultaneously losing fat, unless you're a teenager or genetically gifted. I'd recommend focusing on getting to your goal weight/body fat through mainly cardio and calorie restriction (sensibly), and then focus on getting stronger so you peak once in season.

I've only done Rainier living at sea level, having some altitude on you will help.
I have found training with heavy boots (I'd use my Nepal's and ankle weights) can help to strengthen some of those little stabilizer muscles that give out first.

Otherwise, my successful routines focused on cardio, Hill sprints, tread ladder, compound movement lifts, weighted lunges, and yes, caring a kid in the backpack as I went for timed, as fast as I could walk hikes up to the local radio antenna.

Weather is a huge factor, good luck, my favorite mountain the lower 48.

[davebks]

Thanks. great info. I was talking to my pilates instructor yesterday and she suggested that cardio be my number one goal. For both weight loss and to get my lungs/endurance back up. When I went to Nepal it was 10 years ago and I was single so I could hike every day. Today it's different, more kids, wife, etc.
She knows what im about to get into though.
My hope is that if I start now I can drop weight and be cardio ready (from the gym, skiing, winter hikes, etc) by spring for climbing season.

[nyker]

Exciting!

If you live in CO or somewhere near higher altitude, you should have no issue with the altitude if you can get up to above 10k regularly and climb a 13er or 14er somewhat regularly.
If you're going guided, fitness is probably more important since you'll need to keep up with the rest of the group, otherwise they might turn you around, though the above point on acclimatization will put you ahead of most others on the mountain.
I didn't do any special training for Rainier vs. what I do for other higher altitude hikes on 13ers and 14ers, if you can hike to the top of a local 14er in snow in crampons/axe and feel comfortable doing that, you should be fine on Rainier. It's likely you will have quite a lot of company on the mountain also.
Just stay uninjured, don't get sick and try and get good sleep in the days leading up to your summit day, assuming you won't get much if it all the night before. For me, sleep is equally or more important for success above 12k and is usually a good determinant on how fast I'll be moving the next day.
While there was exposure from the steep snow perspective, there was not much technical
Be prepared for pretty bad weather though on Rainier, including pretty high winds. That can add to the stress factor on that mountain.
Get in some Spring snow ascents and that should get you comfortable in crampons and axe use, practice self arrest, etc. Unless you live near or can get to similar terrain, practicing crevasse rescue might be a bit tougher.
Good luck!

[jchapell]

I hear kids make great training weights.

This. I haven't had to specifically to any heavy pack training at all since adding my 18 mo or 3.5 yr old on regular hikes - and talk about good stabilizer training when they are dancing in that backpack carrier!

But seriously, I've done Rainier 2x while living in the midwest: The first time despite lots of heavy pack miles, I clearly didn't do enough elevation, and my hips were shot on the descent. The second time, I focused on elevation and did less than half the miles, and was fine. Nowdays living in CO, I would just make sure I was mixing up my steep hikes with a heavy pack.

You're welcome to carry my toddlers on some hikes when in the front range