Wham Ridge without a rope

Colorado peak questions, condition requests and other info.
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MtHurd
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by MtHurd »

mattpayne11 wrote:I would love to join you for Jagged, if you want company!
Send me a PM in August. If I have the vacation I'll definitely be doing it. We'll be roping up most likely. Although the climbing is easy, wet rock and little ball bearing sized rocks can make it interesting.
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mattpayne11
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by mattpayne11 »

Barry Raven wrote:
mattpayne11 wrote:I would love to join you for Jagged, if you want company!
Send me a PM in August. If I have the vacation I'll definitely be doing it. We'll be roping up most likely. Although the climbing is easy, wet rock and little ball bearing sized rocks can make it interesting.
Sounds good sir. Agree - roping up is the way to go.
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Alan Ellis
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by Alan Ellis »

Barry Raven wrote:
mattpayne11 wrote:I would love to join you for Jagged, if you want company!
Send me a PM in August. If I have the vacation I'll definitely be doing it. We'll be roping up most likely. Although the climbing is easy, wet rock and little ball bearing sized rocks can make it interesting.
Hey...are you cheating on me? :)
Sack up and climb.
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Scott P
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by Scott P »

Dang, I hate to hijack the thread, but I too really want to do Jagged. I don't know if I can get away in September though, but just in case I can, I would like to go.
I'm old, slow and fat. Unfortunately, those are my good qualities.
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jam6880
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by jam6880 »

Ok my dog belays me and he climbs 5.10s
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Alan Ellis
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by Alan Ellis »

Scott P wrote:Dang, I hate to hijack the thread, but I too really want to do Jagged. I don't know if I can get away in September though, but just in case I can, I would like to go.
Oh....now Scott wants to go too! :)
Sack up and climb.
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turbocat
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by turbocat »

I call BS on the dog unless it was in a sling and being hauled.

We simul-climbed it in June 2006 with an 8mm folded in half and kept 2-3 pieces between my partner and myself. Big difference if you take the middle or go right. The middle definitely gets into the 5.7/5.8/5.9 realm quickly toward the top. The right I thought held true to 5.0-5.4 depending how close you stayed to the edge, there was definitely some pucker factor in one move and a fall would be fatal. A rope (and the knowledge of how to use it) is very useful on this one. It also gives the option to rap quickly off the summit down the frontside . There is some solid pro lodged all over that face (we came across a few nuts and cams, which were lodged solidly and not coming out any time soon).

Barry Raven, that shot of the backside brought back memories as we also dropped too far right and wound up setting makeshift raps on rocks to get down to the saddle. I believe we came down that exact section. Wish we had just rapped back down the face because the backside and the scree off the saddle took forever to navigate, the pitch was such that until you made the next move to the next ledge, you did not know if you would be cliffed out. Not difficult...just time consuming and annoying.

Ralston has some good beta for the traverse over to the Trinities if you can find his TR from earlier in this century (he did Arrow, Vestal and the Trinities in a day fro Molas Pass). We used his TR for Arrow, Vestal and the Trinities but wound up skirting the Trinities and heading into Ten Mile to cut to No Name for Jagged. It's out there on the web somewhere.
When the going gets weird...the weird turn Pro. HST
Alpinista
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by Alpinista »

Marmot72 wrote: But several of you who I don't doubt have skills greater than my own have opted for a rope, so I'll consider carefully - and check out that 3rd flatiron
Oh great! Now RMR is going to have to rescue another "climber" off the Third! Regarding Wham, if you have to ask, you shouldn't be free solo-ing it. CAN you free solo it? Yeah possibly, but just because a thing can be done doesn't mean that it should be done. Wham is definitely "you slip, you die" terrain.

Also contrary to John Landers' post, we found plentiful, good pro through the 5th class section.

We did not find the correct down climb off the back side which became the crux for us too.
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by Alpinista »

Oh, also the Trinity Traverse in in Cooper's Scrambles book.
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Kiefer
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by Kiefer »

Alpinista wrote:
Also contrary to John Landers' post, we found plentiful, good pro through the 5th class section.

We did not find the correct down climb off the back side which became the crux for us too.
We did the same thing.
That backside (south) descent/approach is a jumbled nightmare. It's NOT cairned well at all, the 'path' weaves greatly and for 3rd class scrambling, I actually thought a few sections
were difficult third. Chris started to downclimb that corner in Barry's photo then backed off. We found the 'route' actually traversed a lot more before it started to drop any significent elevation.
It's a confusing walkoff to be sure.

Terry, Scott,
I plan on heading back down there this summer for the 'Center Shift' route up the face (Vestal). It'll probably be just Steph and myself. And I do believe Jagged is on the agenda as well.
Rapping directly off the summit down the [vertical] North Face to the traverse below would be frickin' intense!!! :D
Also planning on Peaks Seven, Eight, Vallecito, The Silex and The Guardian.

Trip report I made a while back (includes the Trinity Traverse) San Juan Shuffle
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MtHurd
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by MtHurd »

Kiefer wrote:Also planning on Peaks Seven, Eight, Vallecito, The Silex and The Guardian.
Don't forget about Peak 9, that's probably the best one of the bunch.
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Kiefer
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Re: Wham Ridge without a rope

Post by Kiefer »

Barry Raven wrote: Don't forget about Peak 9, that's probably the best one of the bunch.
Yup. Already been up it. Hit it the same day as Storm King.
Peak Nine was a seriously scary peak. Not something I'd be willing to repeat.