Wham Ridge without a rope

[Bean]

A buddy of mine told me he climbed the ridge with his dog, unroped. I think you can do it.

I now have the image of a dog belaying a climber stuck in my head.

[tmahon]

A buddy of mine told me he climbed the ridge with his dog, unroped. I think you can do it.

I now have the image of a dog belaying a climber stuck in my head.

Funny. I should probably get more details on how it went before I tell everyone about it. I'll see what I can dig up.

[mattpayne11]

A buddy of mine told me he climbed the ridge with his dog, unroped. I think you can do it.

I'm calling BS -

[Summit Lounger]

My vote is for the dog.

[DaveLanders]

One suggestion would be to try climbing the east face of the 3rd Flatiron unroped. If you can do this, then climbing Wham
Ridge unroped is probably reasonable.

The rock on Wham Ridge is mostly very smooth. I wouldn't want to do it if the rock was wet, with or without a rope.
There was a fatality several years ago where an unroped climber got caught in a storm and fell.

[PKelley]

Everybody free climbs the Wham Ridge. Not everybody free solos it. Don't confuse the two terms. From what you have said in your OP, you have scrambling skills, but not rock climbing skills. Before most people begin to free solo easy 5th class routes, they climb roped a lot at grades much higher than the climb that they plan to go cordless on. If you are comfortable leading harder trad routes with more exposure, then you will be fine ropeless on Wham Ridge. If you have not done many 5th class routes, then don't learn on the Wham Ridge. You very likely will pull it off if you try it, but the margin of safety is greatly expanded by being really proficient on rock. As I stated in my trip report, if you are comfortable soloing the third and first flatiron, then you won't need a rope on Wham Ridge. Hope that helps.

[Kiefer]

Brian Miller (Lordhelmut) climbing just below the crux. The angle is a bit exagerated in this photo but I'm sure
ya get the point.


Looking down on Brian (Lordhelmut) fairly low along the ridge.
I wouldn't want to climb this without a rope easily available...just in case.

[MtHurd]

Just as a reminder of what can happen if you get off-route on the descent, this was my descent. It may have been more difficult that Wham Ridge itself. Do not start traversing over to the Vestal/Arrow saddle too soon!

[Marmot72]

You guys are awesome - I've found all of the notes from your experiences and the various photos and links to TR's extremely helpful. With regard to my experience, I should have clarified that I downclimbed the north part of the Needle to traverse to Crestone Peak (didn't make it - poor visibility and there's a long story there).

None of the pictures look that bad - I'm pretty sure footed and handle exposure well, going up. It's climbing down, when you have to look down that steep slope, that I feel the "pucker factor." But several of you who I don't doubt have skills greater than my own have opted for a rope, so I'll consider carefully - and check out that 3rd flatiron in Boulder.

Thanks!
-Steve

P.S. If anyone is looking for a 4-5 day trip in the Grenadiers this August, I'll be posting for climbing partners later this year...

[MtHurd]

P.S. If anyone is looking for a 4-5 day trip in the Grenadiers this August, I'll be posting for climbing partners later this year...

If you have to go in August, I guess go, but August in the Grenadier Range is usually pretty dicey. I missed getting fried on the summit of Vestal by 10 minutes. This year I plan on going in mid to late September for another crack at Jagged. Got rain on that one in early September last year but at least no lightning.

[mattpayne11]

I would love to join you for Jagged, if you want company!

[tmahon]

Marmot72, I'm glad you got the info you sought, though I'm not sure my contribution was too helpful.

A buddy of mine told me he climbed the ridge with his dog, unroped. I think you can do it.

I now have the image of a dog belaying a climber stuck in my head.

Funny. I should probably get more details on how it went before I tell everyone about it. I'll see what I can dig up.

So I heard back from my buddy who I said I would get details from regarding climbing Wham Ridge with his dog, though not before being called out by someone here as a liar, and it turns out to be true that his dog climbed the route, though I was incorrect with regard to the unroped status and he was actually short roped and belayed. Sorry for the partial misinformation, "Fuzz" recently passed away, though not from climbing, here's Amos's reply to me on the topic.

"Amos Whiting January 27 at 9:14pm
That's great that you told that story. I short roped and belayed him and my brother up Wham. That was his best climb. his best ski was the Hayden traverse.

What a amazing life he had. Thanks for thinking about him."