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Peak(s)  Unnamed 13654  -  13,654 feet
Unnamed 13656  -  13,656 feet
Ellingwood Point  -  14,057 feet
Date Posted  10/11/2025
Modified  10/12/2025
Date Climbed   07/05/2025
Author  pgres
 Obscure Ridges in the Sangres   

Obscure Ridgelines in the Sangre de Cristo

Prelude:

This is one of those trip reports that I'd put in the category of, "we did it so you don't have to". For the July 4th weekend, Gina and I decided to head down to the Sangre de Cristo Range to avoid I-70 traffic and the crowds. After an absolutely fantastic day on the North Ridge of Kit Carson on Friday (not sure why I waited so long to do that route because it's absolutely fantastic) we decided to head for a dramatic looking piece of ridge between UN 13,656 and Ellingwood Point that will go down as probably the most contrived way to summit Ellingwood (as is our specialty) with the ugliest approach. The Blanca Group isn't exactly known for its lush greenery, but the dry slog going up the North Fork of South Zapata Creek would set a new bar. Most of the valley is a thin green strip of scraggly plants surrounded by steep walls of talus and scree (very scenic). I wouldn't count on getting a refill of water at the lake that shows up on the map - It's more of a boggy tarn filled with moss and algae than a lake. The most interesting part of the approach was the airplane debris scattered half a mile along the trail and up on the mountainside. The crash occurred in 1965. There's a plaque just off the trail for anyone interested in seeing the small memorial and paying respects to the 3 people who lost their lives in the crash.

After the lake, the scenery improved with a broad, grassy basin that provided simple passage up to the col just South of the 13,654. The slope was a combination of grassy slopes and occasional talus. The ridge across the unranked peaks was mostly class 2 with a bit of class 3 mixed in. The real 'fun' starts after descending towards the saddle between 13,656 and Ellingwood Point. From here, there's a pretty outstanding (though awkward) fin of rock that traverses all the way to the base of the North Ridge leading up to the summit of Ellingwood. The fin is mostly flat and involves a lot of crab walking, but offers pretty cool views to the East. A grassy ledge sits 50-100' below the ridge proper to the West for those seeking a less contrived method of travel. The best scrambling of the day is a 200' headwall leading to the North Ridge route on Ellingwood (as described on the Ellingwood Point page). From there, we descended the class 3, North Ridge route via C2 Couloir.

Approach:

Follow the South Zapata Lakes Trail to a split around the 10,600' contour. Take the faint trail up and to the left. A trail exists, but it's poorly marked and easy to lose once you get further up the basin where travel is primarily on talus/scree. Route finding here is difficult and can be time-consuming. The trail stays above the creek, following a low-ish angle bench to the tarn. Once at the tarn, route finding gets a lot simpler!

Route Information:

Mileage: Approximately 13 Miles
Elevation: Approximately 5000'
Class: 5.easy

Exposure: Extreme
Rockfall: Moderate - Generally rock fall isn't a concern, but this is some loose rock on the final chimney that leads up to the North Ridge route.
Route-Finding: Very High
Commitment: High


23295_01
Blanca Peak and Ellingwood Point from 13,654


23295_02
Descending from 13,656


23295_03
Beginning our traverse along the knife edge of rock - the grassy bypass is down and to the right.


23295_04
The ridge narrows quickly


23295_05
The NE Face of Ellingwood Point and Orme's Couloir (I think) looking quite impressive


23295_06
The ridge doesn't loose or gain much elevation until the final headwall


23295_07
We more or less described the ridge as a Temu version of the LBB Travesre


23295_08
While the scrambling wasn't our favorite, the exposure was plenty dramatic


23295_10
We didn't like the scenery too much in person, but the photos turned out well, so do with that what you will!


23295_11
Lily Lake TH down and to the right somewhere


23295_13
Weeeeeeeeeeeeee


23295_14
The final headwall looms


23295_15
While most of the LBB traverse is comprised of mostly catwalks, this ridge had a number of slopy fins that required some interesting movements


23295_16
More weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee


23295_17
The ridge relents momentarily near the base of the headwall


23295_18
Up we go! We tackled the headwall more or less directly - The rock was featured, solid, and held the best scrambling of the day


23295_19
Continuing up the headwall


23295_20
The final 'chimney' is the most exposed part of the day with the trickiest scrambling and some loose rock. Tread lightly!


23295_21
Just below the summit of Ellingwood Point


23295_22
South Zapata Lake - It may not be the most beautiful in Colorado, but it looks like a beautiful gem after all the stark terrain leading up to it!





Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
justiner
User
Commit!
10/13/2025 2:37pm
I love that you're essentially doing the entire traverse in these tiny segments. I need ya to step it up and do the whole thing ;)


pgres
User
Justiner
10/13/2025 4:58pm
Haha I want to! This was supposed to be the summer for the big ridge traverses (finally venturing into the overnight bivies), but I let my fitness slip after a pretty bad tomahawk resulted in a hammy pull. Each time I tried to get back into running it would flare up, so working leg weights and endurance this winter to hopefully be in shape for the long ridge traverses next summer 🙂

Also had to scope out some of the spicier sections you noted in your Sangre traverse to make sure I felt nice and comfy 😉


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