Mt. Meeker

Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 10/20/2012, By: scramble
Info: Woah it was completely dry. FYI the route up to the loft looked like it had some snow and ice. The trail to chasm lake was dry. Maybe some little patches of snow on trail or beneath the talus. Basically just like summer scrambling! The wind was different at different times and at different places on the mountain. Some of the strongest/most sustained wind of the day was at the beginning of the knife edge, so we ended up turning around there. Believe the hype! Amazingly beautiful. 

Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 6/23/2012, By: Monster5
Info: Meeker Ridge->Meeker->Longs->Pagoda->Storm Peak B Dry or avoidable snow; no gear used. Iron Gates: Dry, class 2+ talus hop. Meeker Ridge to Meeker: Dry, exposed class 3, obvious route-finding. Solid rock. Not fun with wind. Upper Clark‘s arrow route: One c4 move, mostly c2+/3. One snow patch past the notch: bypass left (downhill) before joining Homestretch. The Loft "couloir" looked mostly dry with small, avoidable patches. Homestretch: Dry, more like exposed c2+. Route to Pagoda: Descended left at base of Homestretch before cutting back right beneath the Narrows cliffs (c2). Aimed for the saddle and encountered a sizable hidden cliff band - moved left (after getting cliffed out trying other routes) to descend a large, prominent gully (c3). Moved right (towards saddle) below major cliffs and above minor ones before a talus hop from the saddle up Pagoda (c2). The re-ascent of Longs is annoying. Reverse the route but climb a left-angling weakness to intersect the Keyboard of the Winds ridge, which can be followed to the top of the Trough (exposed c3). Trough: Dry or easily avoided snow. Loose c2/3. Smells like a sewer in spots. Ledges: Dry. Moderately exposed 2/3. The bulls-eyes are pretty hard to miss. Keyhole to Storm and down: c3, annoying talus hop. Bypass towers on the right side. Lingering snow to avoid on the descent as they hide leg-breakers. Other obs: Notch Couloir is in with a dry chimney. Small snow patches on Broadway. Dreamweaver is pretty much out. Nothing in Martha. 

Route: Loft
Posted On: 6/13/2012, By: rockymountaindiva
Info: Trail clear of snow most of the way. Snowfield was very hard in early a.m., so avoided it by climbing class 3/4 rock to climber's left. Some very icy snow on the ledge, ice ax & crampons or microspikes/yaktrax advised. On descent, snowfield had softened slightly on top but still icy and rock hard underneath, used crampons for about 1/2 of snowfield (past the steepest rock), then downclimbed on rock the remainder of the way. 

Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 5/6/2012, By: WDavis
Info: Very cool route. Having done the keyhole route up Longs numerous times, I enjoyed the shorter mileage up the iron gates to the summit of Meeker (~10mi). There are still some lare drifts below treeline but above it is dry. The morning I went up (May 3) it had snowed the night before but it all melted by that afternoon. Take care on the knife edge. Glad I brought crampons as it was wet with snow. I would not have attempted it in just my boots. If you do it anytime soon, take crampons just in case. Descended via the snowfield below the loft. If you do this, be sure not to miss the ramp as I did. You‘ll get stuck doing some dangerous down climbing otherwise. 

Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 6/20/2011, By: Voodoo302
Info: Patchy snow to Chasm Junction, trail finding can be difficult in the dark (we were 15 minutes past the jct toward Granite Pass before we realized we‘d missed it). Lots of snow in the snowfield below the Loft; pretty much solid from the top of the Loft to the Chasm Lake privy. Dreamweaver is in excellent snow/mixed conditions: firm snow, decent ice in the steps, and minimal bare rock. Get an early start though because the descent off the loft was prettty soft by 1030. 

Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 6/14/2011, By: JonW
Info: Snow in the couloir was in great shape but softens up quickly in the morning sun. Snow patches up to Chasm Lake. Route cruxes were mostly rock with a little ice. Route was stepped out. Descent via the loft is the best option.