Mt. Meeker

Route: Ridge, Loft, Clark’s Arrow, Pagoda
Posted On: 9/10/2021, By: blazintoes
Info: Did a fun scrambly climb via Wild Basin to Hole in the Wall then up Lookout Mountain, up Meeker ridge to Meekers knife edge, down loft, up the Notch via Clark's Arrow to Homestretch stepped off the Keyhole route at the bottom end of the Homestretch, contoured over to the low point between Pagoda and Longs (there is a 3rd class passage down the ramp) and climbed up Pagoda looking back at the impressive West Face of Longs. It was hot, dry and I ran out of water so scrambled back down Pagoda and found a small notch to escape and scree skied down to Hunters Creek to refill and hoofed it back to Sandbeach Lake. The smoky hazy skies killed the views. 

Route: Loft
Posted On: 7/22/2021, By: rudi32
Info: Ascended Loft Couloir to Mount Meeker. Traversed from Meeker to Meeker Ridge ! Great scramble with great rock. Still some remaining snowfields throughout the route, easily avoided. 

Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 7/7/2021, By: jabz
Info: A patriotic summit! A bit of snow in the bowl, but easy to navigate around climber's right on easy ledges. Lots of beautiful wildflowers and the bushwhack along Hunter's creek was not as bad as I feared. 

Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 7/4/2021, By: maxavanzi
Info: Summer conditions to Meeker Ridge and Mt Meeker. 

Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 6/20/2021, By: trkl9
Info: Completely dry aside from the usual snow crossings to chasm. Knifes edge is also dry. 3 people on the summit today. Loft couloir still holding some snow with a visible glissade path. Parking lot only 1/4 full at 4:30 AM. 

Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 6/14/2021, By: PeakSixTD
Info: Soloed Dreamweaver on Saturday in good conditions. It is melting fast however.. probably won't be in great shape after this weekend. We had a low of 35 degrees and totally clear skies so the snow was firm. I'd be hesitant to do this route this year with much warmer of a low. Second step totally melted. We dry tooled up it anyways. Probably a decent bypass to the right. First step was a non issue but with the amount of melt occurring, that may change soon. 3rd and 4th seemed like one continous pitch of some ofnthr funnest climbing ive done. Mostly WI2 with maybe a short section of WI3 here and there. Easier of a solo than I figured it would be. 

Route: Loft Route
Posted On: 6/12/2021, By: arthurtect
Info: Made it up the Loft Route to Mount Meeker. The Loft Route coulier is still full of soft snow. Lose 4-8" with every 12" step, but the glissade down made it worth it. The left turn at the top of the route is a little hairy. Considered doing Long Peak but didn't like the snow on the Homestretch. Have to admit, finding the route route the Notch was difficult, hope to have the time to place more cairns next time. Decided to summit Mount Meeker for the first time, for both my son and I. Dry all the way up from the saddle. Considered taking the ridge down through the Iron Gates, but hadn't done enough research of that route and that ridge is very exposed! Great choice, because the glissade back down the Loft coulier was phenomenal! The quick swim at Chasm afterwards was just as refreshing! 

Route: Dreamweaver Couloir
Posted On: 6/3/2021, By: osprey
Info: The apron at the bottom of the Couloir is entirely snow and gets sun hit early which made for a sweat drenched entrance to the Couloir. The Couloir itself was either snow or ice. The rock steps were covered in snow so no rock climbing was involved. The first small crux was thin ice which was too thin for ice screws. The higher cruxes were either ice or snow over ice. The summit snow field was mushy snow. It is probably best to be on the west side of the rocky summit ridge going up to the summit. Descent was by going down to Loft and crossing the ledges. It was soft snow but I felt more comfortable facing the slope until after crossing the ledges. This was followed by a fast glissade on soft snow to the bottom of the Loft. This was the hardest Peak climb I have done in the last 20 years and I do not wish to exceed the difficulty or even match it again. 

Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 5/29/2021, By: jtfoss1
Info: Honestly... I should have brought micro spikes. The trail approach was icy early (4amish). No snowshoes needed but we were car to car in 9 hours and finished by noon. Couloir in great condition, the snow was solid for almost the entire way. Periodic sections of ice. I felt better with a couple cams on the first crux but opted to go without pro for the rest. Descent to the Loft was a little spicy. Around 10am, the snow was starting to get a little slushy in areas. Once on the Loft, the snow was perfect and the glissade was incredible. 

Route: Flying dutchman
Posted On: 5/28/2021, By: trango6
Info: Super fat snow conditions, similar to pics posted this week from other updates. Ice section is solid, "medium" thickness WI2. You'll need shorter screws if you want to use them. Did it as a ski and the ski conditions were really good at 9am, still a bit firm at the bottom. 10am might have been ideal. There is a slung rock above the ice for a rap, but it's pretty "directional" - there was a party below me so I wasn't able to chop out some ice/snow around it to improve it but I'd recommend doing that if you use it. You can start skinning about a mile from the TH with only a couple short dirt sections mostly just out of tree line. Without skis you should be fine without flotation as long as you're back below tree line before about 11am. I was able to 'ski' until about 1.5 miles above the trailhead on the way back down following the trail. Halfway up the couloir I found a headlamp that was probably dropped in the last few days, PM me with a description and I'll mail it back to you. 

Route: Loft Couloir
Posted On: 5/26/2021, By: jfm3
Info: I attempted to climb Meeker via the Loft. I made it to about 12,500 feet before turning around. The mountain is still in full winter conditions above treeline. I was getting hit with windblown snow and ice and didn't feel comfortable going higher on the steep slope. The snow was very supportive all morning and every step had a great crunch with the crampons. The snow on the trail starts about half a mile up from the parking lot. There is a good path to treeline, then several paths that all lead to Chasm Junction. Any snow climb you want to do on Meeker will probably remain in condition for another month, maybe longer. Photos 4 & 5 are looking up & down from where I turned around. The editor can't save the captions for some reason. 

Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 5/22/2021, By: jbealer
Info: Conditions were just about perfect. Had nice boot steps to follow most of the way. One solo guy ahead of the 3 of us then 2 fast guys passed us at the entrance of the couloir. The 3 crux spots have a thin layer of ice so we did rope up for those areas. Summit of meeker is holding snow, some unconsolidated around the large rocks. We desended via the Loft, we started following tracks that cut away from The Loft entrance and realize that people had repelled down from that area so we turned around. If anyone finds a glove near the start of the couloir let me know, friend lost it when building the anchor. We had an axe and ice axe with us, came in handy. 2- 30mm ropes, crampons, harnesses, helmets, cams and nuts. No snowshoes, worst sinking section was the lower part of the Loft, back down to the lake. Will upload camera images monday. 

Route: Dragon’s Egg
Posted On: 5/21/2021, By: jmanner
Info: South side of Meeker is holding some nice snow. 

Route: Dragon’s Egg
Posted On: 5/18/2021, By: Nathan Hoobler
Info: Crusty layer on top of 18 or so inches of unconsolidated sugar made the couloir a rough climb. Too steep for skis with skins, but postholing with crampons. We turned around at 12,500. Great and quiet camp at Sandbeach Lake 

Route: Loft
Posted On: 5/1/2021, By: SnowAlien
Info: Approached Mt Meeker from Loft, used a fixed line (?) didn't know it was there for the alternative Loft finish, deep snow at the top of the Loft. Ice fall in the middle and the standard ramp looked still snowed in. Skied down Dragons Egg couloir, kicked off 2 wet slides with a ski cut and later saw one natural. Took Hunters creek exit to Sandbeach trail, continuous snow to about 1.5 mile from the Wild basin TH. Great tour but way too warm for skiing, skied slush (snow warmed up in a big hurry).