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|Conditions Information||Posted By||Posted On|
|2015-03-15||Route: East Slopes
Info: Traction highly recommended for easier climbing overall. We went up Lincoln->Cameron->Bross and descended roughly from the Bross-Cameron saddle. Recommend starting early to avoid major post holing, particularly on the final few hundred feet to the summit of Lincoln. Snowshoes recommended on the way down in the trees, it was miserable without it.
|2015-03-14||Route: East Slopes
Info: I climbed and skied Lincoln, Cameron and Bross (did not ski Bross) today. I was amazed at how thin the coverage was. The top 500 ft. of Lincoln east facing was good (like corn). The main gully in Cameron Amphitheatre was skiable but not without hitting rocks. Cameron and Bross were pretty much unskiable on all aspects. I did major damage to my skis today. I had a good look at Democrat. The south slopes looked like continuous coverage and the south east slope looked good. The East face had bout 700 ft of good snow from the top. After that there is no way through. You would have to down climb 200-300 ft. to the saddle. On the tour I did from Quartzville I would call the avy level low. I was not on any North Faces. The sun was intense and will take it‘s toll on the East through south faces.
|2015-01-31||Route: Diamond Coulior (S face of NE Ridge)
Info: Approach from Montgomery Reservoir to the ice climbing area is well packed. Most lower angle ice at the falls is fat, blue, plastic and fun climbing; the steeper pillars are badly picked-out. Snow in the Lincoln Amphitheater is about 50% amazing and 50% punchy wallowing. It is possible to follow the moraine/rock virtually all way to the base of the coulior if desired. Snow in the "Diamond Coulior" (prominent feature on the S Face of Lincoln‘s NE Ridge) is generally stable and about 80% great kicking and front pointing. The steepest sections - short constrictions up to 55+/- degrees - are wallow-y but easy to pull through using rock along the side of the coulior. Where extant, cornices are small and easily climbed around. Not a threat to the climb at the moment. Slopes to the summit are soild. Decent down the standard amphitheater is stable and mostly solid with occasional knee-deep sections. Any sizable accumulation will change life in the coulior dramatically. I think I was lucky to catch this in abnormally good conditions for this time of year and imagine that spring is typically a safer bet for good climbing conditions.
|2014-12-06||Route: East Slopes
Info: Snow is intermittent from TH until ~13,000ft and gets deeper as you proceed to Lincoln. Snowshoes were very helpful. I gained the ridge by bearing right and going up the hill instead of left towards the cameron amphitheater and that route proved fine; however, you could easily go towards the cameron amphitheater, a route I opted for on return, as there was far less snow there than I had thought when I was trip planning. Beware, significant snow buildup of snow on Lincoln north face which made it very treacherous. Almost called it about 100 feet from summit with no axe as the loose snow creates an exponential steepness. A much safer route would be to go right and around the final pitch and then take the summit from the south side. On the return, I followed the creek basin pretty much all the way from cameron ampitheater. About 2-3 feet of snow there.
|2014-11-08||Route: West Ridge
Info: Did the Democrat, Cameron, Lincoln, Bross route clockwise. Car to car took 4hr 53min. No problem getting to Kite lake. Some snow on the shady parts of the road but other than that it is clear. Conditions on the mountain(s) were perfect other than the wind. Gusts up to 60mph. Democrat has the most snow, but nothing too deep. Trip was done in a pair of Ganda Guide approach shoes. Recommend mini spikes if you are not comfortable ascending/descending on packed snow and ice.
|2014-07-28||Route: West Ridge
Info: No snow/ice on the trail and in very good conditions. A little windier that on the saddle but nothing to worry about.
|2014-06-20||Route: East Slopes
Info: We had a little trouble finding trailhead. Just look for the crest rd sign. There was some runoff water on the trail but easily avoided. A little snow near the summit, again, easily managed in regular shoes. We hiked Lincoln to Cameron to Broad and back. Gorgeous day and an amazing sunset!!!!
|2014-06-20||Route: West Ridge
Info: Snow is melting fast and road was open all the way to Kite Lake. Hiked Bross, Lincoln and Cameron in that order. No snow on Bross and just a couple easy patches to cross the saddle to Lincoln. Trail up to Lincoln only had one easy to cross patch of snow. Lots of people on the summit. Some snow on crest of Cameron but easily avoided. Trail to saddle with Democrat was mostly clear with just a patch or two of snow to avoid. We glissaded down two extensive snow patches as we descended from the Democrat/Cameron saddle down to Kite Lake (which was still frozen over). Beautiful day, no clouds, light wind--best conditions for hiking of 4 times I have gone there.
|2014-06-15||Route: West Ridge
Info: I did Cameron, Lincoln and Bross ( i know stone me) today. The trail was 75% snow free. I have included some pics for reference. The pic of the snow crossing is early on going up to the saddle between Democrat and Cameron. Microspikes are a good idea for morning time. After gaining the saddle the trail to Lincoln is snow free. To Bross there is a snowfield about 100 feet long, at that point the snow was soft though. The road to Kite Lake still has a decent drift blocking it about a quarter of a mile from the TH..... dry until that point.
|2014-06-08||Route: East Slopes
Info: The trail is mostly snow free and all but a couple snow fields can be avoided. The summit pitch being the exception. The last couple hundred yards up to the summit is an unavoidable snow field. It can be done in just boots when the snow softens a little, but very early in the morning on hard snow the slope is difficult to find traction. I recommend carrying a set of micro-spikes.
|2014-06-07||Route: East Slopes
Info: Three large snowfields of increasing difficulty hindered our 4x4 drive to the Quartsville Creek Trailhead, but we made it all the way and we think we were the first this year to do so. You definitely need a high clearance 4x4 up this road. The rout has patches of snow covering maybe 10% of the trail to the amphitheater. The Northeast slope up Bross has snow patches that some may prefer to attack with micro spikes (I did not). From the top of Lincoln, there seamed to be a continuous snowfield that lead from nearly the base of the cameron ampitheater to the top of Bross (we did not take this snowfield). Cameron has a nice glissade-able snowpatch on it that the rout boarders. Lincoln‘s east shoulder also has many snow patches and long stretches of the road are snow-covered, but nothing that would warrant even microspikes, in my humble opinion. We didn‘t do Democrat but the upper 800 ft looked like like solid snow.
|2014-06-03||Route: East Slopes
Info: I climbed Bross, Cameron and Lincoln from the Quartzville site today. I didn‘t post hole once nor did I put on crampons, microspikes or snowshoes. I was on snow 10-20% of the time but it was absolutely no problem. The only problem was wind from Bross to Lincoln. If you don‘t want to post hole but you still want to get out this is the climb. I highly recommend it. Nelson
|2014-05-02||Route: East Slopes
Info: Climbed and "skied" the Russian Coulouir on Mt. Lincoln. The roads are clear to the Quartzville trailhead, but I parked lower and walked up the road to avoid private property issues. Crest road is mostly snow covered with just a few bare spots lower down. I was able to skin into Cameron Amphitheater with no issues on firm morning snow (I departed Quartzville at around 6:30 am), but snowshoes would likely help if you are a skier. The Russian Couloir was in good shape except for the choke in the middle, where the snow was thin and a lot of rocks lurked beneath making it tough to link turns. Up top, the wind (which was really ripping yesterday) had blown in some soft snow and created a pretty big wind lip (not quite a cornice) near the summit. The unstable-looking wind lip kept me out of the steep/narrow entrance, but the snow below the lip skied nicely. The apron down towards the lake was nice, firm corn when I came down at around 11:00 am, but things got a little mushy near Quartzville.
|2014-05-01||Route: Lincoln Amphitheatre
Info: Used boot crampons looker right of icefall on way up at 9am. Looker left of cabin chutes boot crampons would have been very helpful, turned around there.
|2014-04-19||Route: East Slopes
Info: Started on E. Ramp of Lincoln from Quartz Creek. Took forever, disconcerting, lots of rocks and grass. Back to skins on and off from about 12 K. Snow on summit. Could have ridden pretty far Possibly all the way to Lincoln Falls E. We dropped in S. Only one continuous line to the Cameron Ampitheater (12.9 or so) The line is on far skiers right and would have required a butt load of traversing. Down climbed about 300 ft of chose. Went up Cameron‘s E. Bulk. Rode continuously down S. SW. to about 12. 8 traversing towards Democrat. Climbed E. Face. Skinned %90+ of the way. 5-10 cm of snow. decently well bonded to wind melt freeze combo. Gained the E. Ridge topped out, rode ascent route down to 12.5 skinned up Bross West gully. Really good snow til about 14K. Rode out The Dolly and traversed back. Wet Loose activity 20cms on N-NE aspects at TL upon entering TL zones... TR later. I‘m lazy sorry
|2014-04-12||Route: East Slopes
Info: Climbed and skied Lincoln from the Quartzville approach through the Cameron Amphitheater. Snow conditions were good overall - we were able to ski (powder!) off the summit and pick a continuous line down the East Slope and back down the old mining road to about 13,100‘ where we had walked down the road for about 100‘. From here, we skied into and down the drainage on the north side of the route (Lincoln side), and with two brief exceptions (5 minutes total walking) we were able to ski all the way back to the Quartzville/Crest intersection. We also skied Cameron‘s East Face - poor coverage on lookers left (towards Bross) but the other side below the Cameron/Lincoln saddle held much more, albeit steeper, snow. Other beta: Democrat‘s standard East Slope route had incredible snow coverage, more than I‘ve ever seen before! I hope to hit one of the routes from Kite Lake in the near future. Quandary‘s Cristo Couloir also looks very well filled and in from the summit.
|2013-11-25||Route: Lincoln Amphitheatre
Info: Road was plowed all the way to the summer TH at Montgomery Reservoir. Made it in an AWD Ford Escape. Walking alongside the reservoir we encountered 4-5 inches of pretty soft snow at around 7:30am. Same in the woods up to the ice falls. We were post-holing pretty bad after the falls and entering the amphitheater as we encountered several 2-3ft drifts of soft powder. It took us 3 hours to get to the entrance of the amphitheater so we turned around. There was just enough snow in the amphitheater to cover most of the small low-lying boulders (maybe 9 inches). Snowshoeing was difficult as we would sink down to the rocks and twist ankles. Microspikes would be good, but make sure you have gaiters on and be prepared to post-hole in between rocks. Conditions looked the same all the way up the amphitheater, can‘t speak for the rest of the route. By the way, this was my first attempt at a snow climb, so I might be missing some knowledge/gear that would have made this climb much easier and time-efficient.
|2013-11-18||Route: West Ridge
Info: Again, probably not the greatest picture but with new snow this is taken from flight to Denver to San Diego this morning
|2013-10-26||Route: West Ridge
Info: Condition and weather was perfect for this time of year. Very slight wind on the way up and virtually no wind on the summit. There were patches of snow on the way but not enough to warrant micro-spikes nor gaiters.
|2013-10-12||Route: West Ridge
Info: Gaiters were useful but no traction devices needed yet. Decalibron is in fine shape. Trail is still quite easy to follow. This loop is definitely not in winter conditions yet! Definitely colder than summer, though ;)