Wilson Peak

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 5/30/2025, By: dakotasmama
Info: Downed tree two miles before the trailhead added onto an exhausting summit attempt. I was lulled into a false sense of security for the first 4 miles, and then I reached Silver Pick Basin. There’s so much snowpack that route-finding was nearly impossible without keeping my phone in my hand. I had gaiters and spikes but without snowshoes I spent three hours navigating to the saddle, post-holing more often than not. I had hoped that after the saddle the north side would be more clear of snow than the south but the snow fields persisted and I turned around with about a half mile left. Very dicey descent back into the basin, at least until the snow wasn’t too steep and I could start glissading, but I cut that short too over fear of causing an avalanche. 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 4/15/2025, By: aksean22
Info: Started a few miles down the 622 road at about 9500'. We drove through a few deep patches of snow to make it to that point, but it's melting fast and the next person should have an easier time. Snow in Silver Pick basin was quite icy and crusty from all the sun last week. A straightforward booter up the NW face of Wilson and a little bit of dry scrambling to the summit. Coors Face was a little thin up top but better once you get off the face and into the main gully. One or two more storms would help out a lot. Great corn lower down, isothermic mess in the trees. Sweet line! 

Route: Woods Lake Approach
Posted On: 9/30/2024, By: two lunches
Info: the south ridge and east face are completely dry, but snow from the storm a couple weeks ago is persistent from the downclimb of the false summit to partway up The Gash. it took me a moment to decide to proceed from the false summit, but once i strapped on microspikes and committed to the route, i encountered no issues. the snow is supportive and the hand-holds are abundant, but i watched several people who didn't bring spikes struggle/panic over the spot (rightfully so), and a few turned around instead of summitting. it's possible to avoid the snow, but involves some careful rock dancing to get from one side to the other. a fall from there might not be fatal, but it wouldn't be a fun day. 

Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 9/20/2024, By: eliyancey
Info: I think it's safe to say that summer conditions are coming to a close. The downclimb from the false summit across to the summit pitch was totally covered in snow and made the difficulty drastically increase. A group in front of ours turned around after the false summit because they didn't feel comfortable with the snowy conditions. I almost did, but pushed on and was able to summit. With the forecasted snow this weekend, I would say things are not going to get any better. Was glad to do this just before the summer season came to a close! 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 9/16/2024, By: Clairebaums
Info: The road to get there was not too bad, but we got to the trailhead in a forerunner. There was no snow on the route so there's no need for crampons. It did snow with high winds when we were summited around 9:30 am, but nothing was sticking to the ground. 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 8/20/2024, By: climbingyogi
Info: Really had a hard time deciding whether to attempt this mountain on Sunday or not, given the super gloomy weather forecast on Saturday afternoon. My group and I intended to do all 3 mountains over the weekend, but after much debate and back and forth at dinner on Saturday, my two partners started the drive back to Denver. Since I had already paid for a hotel in Glenwood Springs for Sunday night, I decided to just camp and spend Sunday relaxing in Telluride. Well - I decided to camp along the road to the ROA TH on Saturday night and wake up and check the forecast one more time. I was so pessimistic about the weather that I didn't even set an alarm for Sunday morning. I also decided to drive up to the TH on Saturday night from my camp spot to make sure my car would do ok. Maneuvering around the cows was actually the crux of the drive (see photo). On Sunday, I woke up at 5am, checked the weather and saw that it had improved quite a bit, with what looked like 0% chance of rain until 1pm, at which point it switched to 40%. I packed up and drove my Outback up the road and got to the TH at 6am. The stream crossing was no big deal, and luckily I had no issues with the mud section right before the crossing either. I got up to the ROA saddle in just under 2 hours and things still looked good. The previous snow crossing after the mine ruins still exists, but is still a non-issue. I thought this approach was lovely and easy to move fast on (and I'm not a fast hiker). I could see a couple ahead of me and a couple behind me, so I felt comforted that I wasn't alone at least. I ended up joining the couple ahead of me at the start of the class 3 ledges and we continued on as a group to the summit and all the way back down to the TH (thanks for letting me join, Vi + Andy!). We really lucked out with the weather, as it started drizzling almost immediately after getting back to the TH at 12:45pm. Really glad things worked out! 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 7/29/2024, By: mspin99
Info: Only 1 snow crossing left in the Basin, right after the mine ruins. No spikes necessary, but I will note that early in the AM, the ice is pretty bulletproof. Trekking poles were helpful for added stability. I used a squatting approach to keep balance. Falling and sliding would not be fun. On the way back, no concern as the snow will be soft. Ridge to Peak was awesome, no snow -- just fun route-finding and climbing from ledges to crux. 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 7/21/2024, By: RCBurnout11
Info: Only one small snowfield remains on the Rock of Ages approach. Completely dry and easy to follow otherwise. The previous review is spot on about the marmots on the small saddle. I wouldn't stash anything here if it's an option. It was a great climb, but there is some loose rock to watch out for after you hit Rock of Ages Saddle. The exposure wasn't as bad as I expected and climbing up the crux wasn't difficult. Route-finding was probably the most difficult part of the day for me. 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 7/13/2024, By: shapovalovm
Info: Counted 3 snowfields, but did not bother using spikes (see photos) or poles as each is easily crossable in ~15 seconds in pretty much any footwear (I was wearing approach shoes). Route-finding is pretty straightforward. The route is almost entirely class 1-2 other than maybe a small section past Wilson-Gladstone saddle and at the very end after false summit. If you want to stash your stuff on the small saddle, be careful, there's fearless Marmot mafia there, tearing packs into pieces. Did Wilson and Gladstone. The latter turned out to be way harder and way more fun. 5:10am start, 1:20 finish. Had to activate "f-off the mountain ASAP" protocol as the clouds were rolling in on the way back from Gladstone. 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 7/11/2024, By: kansasgirlclimbs
Info: Previously reported snowfields are unchanged 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 7/8/2024, By: gratefulliam
Info: Near full-on summertime conditions. Still some lingering snow that you'll have to cross on the way up to the saddle. Probably worth having microspikes at these areas just to be extra safe. No snow above/beyond the saddle. 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 7/3/2024, By: toxqan
Info: There were about 6 snowfields to cross in total. 3 of those were lower down with a few covering the mining road. The other three were higher up toward ROA saddle and were fairly easy to cross. I brought an axe and found it useful although I also used trekking poles to cross a few as well. I found the first snowfield a mile from the trailhead the trickiest. Everything past the ROA saddle was dry 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 6/24/2024, By: Floydgatsby
Info: Still snow on trail, mainly along the final couple hundred feet to the Rock of Ages pass. If you start early, make sure you have traction + poles and an ice axe since some areas are pretty steep. Above the pass most snow/ice is avoidable or low risk. After the false summit the route is ice free. Lots of fun glissading down from the pass. 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 6/17/2024, By: JakeBortClimb
Info: Mostly dry, apart from the basin approach. Crampons or other good traction are needed to climb up to the Rock of ages saddle. Snow is avoidable from there, apart from small and insignificant crossings. Ice axe makes for a nice glissade down to the bottom on the way backsummer conditions for 90%. 

Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 1/4/2024, By: CameronMothersead
Info: Approached from the cross mountain trailhead. Snow is super packed down for about 3 miles and then we broke our own trail from there. Super powdery snow the whole rest of the way except for a few firm slabs here and there. We deviated from the normal trail a bit to get up to the ridge, just kind of picked a couloir and went up but it wasnt too hard. Ridge itself had just enough snow to make it interesting and there is lots of loose rock.