Sunlight Peak

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 5/15/2025, By: AlpineSplit
Info: Sunlight has been a bit sun affected, riding was just OK. Things are melting off the summit and probably won't be ridable after a few more days of sun. Lots of shedding on the main face. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 12/23/2024, By: paulbarish
Info: Very safe but physically brutal! Took the train to Cascade Wye (much better than hiking from purgatory like I did for Eolus a few winter ago). Expected to be on skis out of the gate but ended up walking in approach shoes until shortly after needle creek when I could FINALLY switch to skinning! Luckily there were plenty of down trees blocking the trail so lots of transitions haha. Camped at 11k. Many running water sources available just above. At least 3 good ones within 20 of the trail. The trail is mixed snow and rock until Twin Lakes where it was hard packed all the way until 13k where you turn onto the south face of sunlight. Then it needed flotation but skied like a sheet of ice (over to Windom). Skinning this section was heinous and Ski crampons would have been awesome. Upper mountain had post holing that could be avoided with extra scrambling. Overall the snow was soft and not very supportive. Summit block was tricky in ski boots, but it was my first time so maybe I could have done it an easier way . I skied from approximately 13700 over to Windom trying to lose as little vert as possible, then stashed skis and took a Rocky rib on the north face to link with the ridge. I skied from 13400 to twin lakes easily then on and off skis until the prominent switchback in the trail around 11800. I took skis on and off probably 30 times in the next few miles and I skied through a lot of stuff that people who care about their skis wouldnt have! Then proceeded to pack up camp and go all the way back to Cascade Wye to catch the train. Overall, I think snowshoes would have been easier and saved a lot of energy, probably in the end faster. More snow will help a lot. Yesterday was a 22.5 hour day and I suffered more than I expected! I hope this helps someone. Happy solstice!!! 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 10/8/2024, By: null_pointer
Info: Sunlight Peak on the south facing side is bone dry. The route to the top is in summer conditions. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 9/28/2024, By: null_pointer
Info: Did not attempt this but thought the pics would be helpful from Windom. Route appears clear with no snow (confirmed by couple on the train). See pics. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 8/7/2024, By: ericd01
Info: Spectacular & remote location. Hiked 7hrs into Chicago basin after an Uber drop off at the Purgatory Flats TH. Overhead high pressure summer weather system weakens each afternoon with soaking drizzle, 5-min hail, and a cool refresh in the forest. Summer conditions allow for a light pack nonetheless a damp cold night in a hammock. Twin Lakes is without snow, lots of streams, and again refreshingly damp well cairned rock scramble to the top. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/15/2024, By: caesarsalad
Info: A couple small snowfields to cross just before the standard Sunlight/Windom split. We did Sunlight on 7/13 in the late morning, and they were soft enough to get good traction, but not soft enough to posthole. Didn't see any postholes from others. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/18/2024, By: jacobslaton
Info: Climbed Sunlight and Windom on July 12. Conditions were great. Very little snow other than one small patch not far from twin lakes. No traction needed. The approach to the Sunlight ridge was dusty and loose, but not terrible. On Windom, we saw several groups descending via one of the gullys on the east side, which they said they regretted once they were down due to loose rocks and overall steepness. Some cairns in that area likely need to be demolished. The standard route on the ridge is solid and fairly easy to navigate with good cairns throughout. The lakes serve as a good water source, but there is also a trickle of snowmelt that runs through the valley between Sunlight and Windom where you can refill bottles if needed. Below the lakes, water is plentiful and easy to access. In the basin, mosquitos and biting flies were bad so be prepared for those. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 7/2/2024, By: ryantasto
Info: Climbed all four peaks on the 30th and really no need for traction, only a couple of patches to cross when traversing between sunlight and Windom but fairly flat/sun cupped 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/1/2024, By: tlinkus
Info: Small snowfields on low-angle lower sections that are easily crossed without spikes or other gear. Minimal snow on upper portion that is easily bypassed/ walked through. Gravel/ rock on way up to saddle is super loose. No gear needed. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 6/13/2024, By: vagorsan
Info: Attempted on 13 June. I made it to 13,500 feet before deciding the icy slope was too steep for my comfort zone. There is still a couple feet of snow most of the ascent up Sunlight from the Sunlight/Windom turnoff junction: ICE AXE should be carried for safety. Firm snow before sunrise but quickly softens to posthole conditions. Would recommend planning to summit by sunrise to avoid too much postholing at least to the Windom/Sunlight turnoff, and definitely recommend an ice axe. I started at 0430 form the Chicago Basin, and that was a couple hours later than I should have started. Other than that, it is dry and beautiful all the way up to Chicago Basin and Twin Lakes. Wildflowers starting to bloom in the Basin, and leading up to it columbines are in full bloom! There is a slightly tricky stream crossing heading up to Twin Lakes but you can stay dry if you step carefully. There's a brief section after the frozen Twin Lakes that requires microspikes to be safe (no way around it... and this icy section typically stays in place into summer). Then there's a route up that avoids snow until you get to the turnoff between Windom and Sunlight at which point you need to have your ice axe ready just in case though the runoff is not crazy steep. Also, I know it's a weekday, but there were very few people in the Basin. Saw just 2 others camping, and saw one other who attempted Windom this morning. Be aware of critters too! I ran into 2 different people who had their hiking pole handles and hat chewed up by porcupines and rabbits. Definitely ensure you have a way to protect your food. So far, no insect issues though that will probably change soon. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 6/14/2024, By: nrobsaihttam
Info: Hiked out to Chicago Basin Weds 6/12 and summited Sunlight peak Thurs 6/13. There was basically no snow below twin lakes (but plenty of hungry and curious animals in the basin). At and above twin lakes there are many unavoidable patches of snow. For sunlight specifically, I found that I did need an ice axe. I only had regular boots and micro spikes and was able to make it work. Crampons might have added a bit of confidence in spots, but there was a big mix of rocky vs snowy sections so being able to switch back and forth was nice. Snow becomes soft and postholey by 9 or 10 am. Not very crowded with people yet, only saw a couple other groups the whole time we were out. Weather at night was mild, but Friday it was rainy all day so we left early. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 10/13/2023, By: aggiemountainman
Info: Trail had 1-2'' of snow for half the route. At Class 3 part and above completely dry except for the hole at the summit. Leap of faith and summit block had no snow (at least not any that would interfere with the jump). Eolus and N. Eolus dry from our view, including the cat walk. Windom completely covered in snow, except for the ridge. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 9/25/2023, By: bjbatchelor
Info: Hiked/ran from Purgatory in a day. Trail was in great condition. The thin layer of snow that fell overnight melted off by the time I got up to Leap of Faith. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 9/25/2023, By: JasonCrane
Info: Tacked on Sunlight after Eolus/N Eolus on Sunday. The only mountain goats I saw all weekend were a group of adults with their offspring at 13k literally sitting on the trail around that tall triangular cairn up above Twin Lakes. One of them, the big one, who looked to be the patriarch (or Enforcer) was staring me down & made no effort whatsoever to relocate from the center of the trail. So, I just hiked around them to the right to avoid any confrontation. Sunlight is completely dry with a few minor patches of snow in the summit area. The ascent up the red gully is cairned, but has a lot of loose, dry scree making footing difficult at times. Once your reach the saddle adjacent to Sunlight Spire, you have to follow the cairns along the ridge up to the summit & there are a few tricking Class 3 rock climbing features & I wasn't sure which was the Class 4 portion. I had to stop for a few minutes at one point to try to figure out where the trail continued & it definitely took some rock climbing skills to get up a few of those rock blocks. The eye hole opening on the ridge was very noticeable & reassuring that I was going the correct way & then the tight rock opening that you have to crawl through was super exciting as I realized I was about to reach the summit! Without a doubt, after coming all that way I had to do the Leap of Faith. What an adrenaline rush! I was only able to land on my stomach for a moment like a belly flop! The rocks are leaning at 45 degree angles, but plenty of friction for footing. The summit is basically a monolith of a giant slab leaning against this other group of rocks. Coming down was fine, but the red saddle & scree slope was a bunch of loose sand & required extra care not to slip. I just wore trail-runners, no spikes & no ice axe. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 9/24/2023, By: andlours
Info: Almost entirely summer conditions. Small patches of snow in the chimney that could easily be avoided. The leap of faith is no joke.