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Mont Blanc Question

Discussion area for peaks outside of the USA.
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Re: Mont Blanc Question

Postby krs1 » Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:10 am

Hey Iman86-

Geneva is best place to fly into for Chamonix, and you do not need a permit to climb Blanc. Also, make sure you make a res for the hut before you attempt Blanc we got a spanking for not doing so.

I would also recommend the Hotel Richemond in Chamonix as it was decent place to crash for the price.

Let me if you need anymore beta a few of us were over there last summer.

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Re: Mont Blanc Question

Postby jbchalk » Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:12 am

Back in August 2009, our crew flew into Paris but really only because we were going to do some venturing across wine country en route to Cham and then head to the French Riviera after Mont Blanc & Cham. We just wanted to be mobile. If you are looking for best place to fly into for Cham, maybe try Geneva (much closer). As far as I know and what I remember from our 3 Monts Traverse climb 3 yrs ago, no permits are needed for Mont Blanc. Just get a ticket for the Aiguille du Midi and you're set! Carl may know better as he was on the 3 Monts Traverse route just last summer.

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Re: Mont Blanc Question

Postby climbing_rob » Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:22 am

Yep, Geneva is very convenient. we stayed at a Hostel in the outskirts of Chamonix, very reasonable cost, regular bus schedule into town. you'll really like this climb. It was not super-crowded on the trois mont route, but it was crowded on the summit from the folks going up the "regular" route.

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Re: Mont Blanc Question

Postby Carl » Tue Feb 28, 2012 10:20 am

I concur with everything above. We climbed the three monts this summer and I hit up Brandon (jbchalk) and Caleb for a lot of details beforehand. Geneva to Chamonix is quick and easy by train or car. Our first attempt on the three monts in poor weather on a weekend in mid August we only saw one other group on the route. Cosmiques was empty. A week later in good weather Cosmiques was turning people away who didn't have reservations and they had to sleep on the floor at Aiguille du Midi. We had made a reservation a few days in advance. You don't need to bring anything for the hut besides toiletries and ear plugs. You can buy water but it's pricey. I agree with Rob that this route isn't overly crowded, but we were glad to be out in front. If the hut is busy pick the earliest breakfast time and get downstairs 10 minutes early so you can be at the head of the line for food. It was a little hectic but we were the first ones on the glacier heading up towards Mont Blanc du Tacul. Not having a dozen sleep deprived roped teams with varying skill levels climbing moderately steep snow in front of you is comforting. And it's a cool view.

Refuge de Cosmiques is the lower building on the ridge and Aiguille du Midi is the higher.

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Re: Mont Blanc Question

Postby krs1 » Tue Feb 28, 2012 10:43 am

The "crux" is walking the plank up from the Vallee Blanche in a rather stiff breeze.

I second the thought of loading up on bottled water before you head up the Tram...Water is quite pricey at the hut, but the food is excellent and you will not starve at the Cosmiques. The Maudit Headwall sucks if you get stuck behind groups, becuase you are sitting and waiting at the coldest part of the morning while groups are wanting to pitch it out.

If you climb ice check out the Chere Couloir on the Triangle. Also, the Cosmiques Arete is a fun/cool ridge to climb back to the Tram. So much to climb in Cham.

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