Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

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justiner
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Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by justiner »

Sorry to pass this information along,


On 6.27.26 AVSAR was called out for a fallen hiker on the West Ridge Indirect approach to Little Bear Peak. The climber had fallen a great distance when a large chunk of rock fell from the crux and was described to be in critical condition with severe injuries.
AVSAR immediately began requesting resources, including a UH-60 hoist capable Blackhawk from the Colorado Army National Guard, Canon Helitack and REACH71 out of Alamosa. The team knew we needed all hands on deck to be able to get this hiker out as soon as possible.

AVSAR was fighting strong winds and high temps at the incident command location which made working with helicopters even more difficult. Sustained gusts on Little Bear Peak were estimated at 60~ mph.

Two AVSAR techs were inserted at 12,100ft in Tobin Basin by DFPC Canon Helitack to begin the ascent to the hiker and his climbing party. One AVSAR 4X4 rig began the ascent up Lake Como Rd with additional SAR techs. The Colorado Army National Guard UH-60 Blackhawk arrived on scene approximately at 14:00 hours and inserted two rescue techs in via hoist. The rescue techs immediately packaged the hiker in a stable flight bag to execute the hoist.

At approximately 14:10 the hoist was executed and the hiker was transported to the AVSAR helipad on Lake Como Rd. where REACH71 was prepared to receive the hiker. The REACH71 flight nurse and flight medic, along with AVSAR team members on scene, immediately began intensive life saving efforts, but unfortunately the hiker had succumbed to their injuries.
This is not the outcome anyone had hoped for. But there was still work to do. The AVSAR techs who were inserted into Tobin basin guided the rest of the climbing party back down to Lake Como where we had three AVSAR 4x4 vehicles prepared to transport them back down to Incident Command. All teams were safely out of the field at approximately 18:00 hours.

AVSAR would like to send our deepest condolences to all those affected by this tragedy. It was not the outcome that anyone had hoped for. Please keep the first responders, the family and the friends of this hiker in your thoughts and prayers.
This is a sad reminder that just because it's not the Hourglass, doesn't mean it's a safe route. I'm not sure if there are any totally safe routes up Little Bear.
Last edited by justiner on Wed Jul 01, 2026 10:33 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by greenonion »

justiner wrote: Wed Jul 01, 2026 10:10 am Sorry to pass this information along,
On 6.27.26 AVSAR was called out for a fallen hiker on the West Ridge Indirect approach to Little Bear Peak. The climber had fallen a great distance when a large chunk of rock fell from the crux and was described to be in critical condition with severe injuries.
AVSAR immediately began requesting resources, including a UH-60 hoist capable Blackhawk from the Colorado Army National Guard, Canon Helitack and REACH71 out of Alamosa. The team knew we needed all hands on deck to be able to get this hiker out as soon as possible.

AVSAR was fighting strong winds and high temps at the incident command location which made working with helicopters even more difficult. Sustained gusts on Little Bear Peak were estimated at 60~ mph.

Two AVSAR techs were inserted at 12,100ft in Tobin Basin by DFPC Canon Helitack to begin the ascent to the hiker and his climbing party. One AVSAR 4X4 rig began the ascent up Lake Como Rd with additional SAR techs. The Colorado Army National Guard UH-60 Blackhawk arrived on scene approximately at 14:00 hours and inserted two rescue techs in via hoist. The rescue techs immediately packaged the hiker in a stable flight bag to execute the hoist.

At approximately 14:10 the hoist was executed and the hiker was transported to the AVSAR helipad on Lake Como Rd. where REACH71 was prepared to receive the hiker. The REACH71 flight nurse and flight medic, along with AVSAR team members on scene, immediately began intensive life saving efforts, but unfortunately the hiker had succumbed to their injuries.
This is not the outcome anyone had hoped for. But there was still work to do. The AVSAR techs who were inserted into Tobin basin guided the rest of the climbing party back down to Lake Como where we had three AVSAR 4x4 vehicles prepared to transport them back down to Incident Command. All teams were safely out of the field at approximately 18:00 hours.

AVSAR would like to send our deepest condolences to all those affected by this tragedy. It was not the outcome that anyone had hoped for. Please keep the first responders, the family and the friends of this hiker in your thoughts and prayers.
This is a sad reminder that just because it's not the Hourglass, doesn't mean it's a safe route. I'm not sure if there are any totally safe routes up Little Bear.
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Re: Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by ericahlstedt »

Wow that's horrible and tragic. I was over on one of the ridges between California and Crossfire Ridge and was watching the helicopter fly over Ellingwood and hovering for a while near L. Bear's W ridge. Incredible efforts by the SAR teams and heli pilots, those winds were extreme at the time. Really tragic outcome.

I do wonder if the W ridge direct is a better/safer option, sure there is more exposure and higher off the ground, but the rock is quite solid and stable on the ridge top itself and can be kept 4th class by connecting to the top of the hourglass instead of going up the final headwall section, while the "indirect" seems to be more on the wall of the ridge with more loose rock risk.
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Re: Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by justiner »

Having done the west ridge direct, I do think there are some pretty loose blocks that are not to be yarded on at the cruxes. Unfortunately, the rock just isn't great in the area.
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Re: Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by cottonmountaineering »

justiner wrote: Wed Jul 01, 2026 11:11 am Having done the west ridge direct, I do think there are some pretty loose blocks that are not to be yarded on at the cruxes. Unfortunately, the rock just isn't great in the area.
RIP to the climber, and yeah no matter where it is on little bear it will always have loose rock, i always thought it to be safest as a snow climb
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Re: Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by 14erFred »

Prayers for comfort and strength for the family and friends of the fallen climber. May the climber rest in peace forever, and may their memory always be a blessing.
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Re: Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by climbnowworklater »

Always sad news. RIP to the climber and I hope all the parties involved can heal over time. Anyone know if the post below is connected?

viewtopic.php?t=65687
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Re: Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by Ed_Groves »

So sorry to hear this. I wish the family and friends of the fallen hiker peace and comfort during this difficult time.
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Re: Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by climbingcue »

Terrible news, Little Bear is definitely no joke. Lots of places that can be very dangerous on all the different routes. I think the hour glass with good snow and crampons is the best and safest way. Those conditions did not happen at all this year. My condolences to family and friends of the fallen climber.
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Re: Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by NovaDevi25 »

Partner and I turned around not far beneath this area on WRI last year after we both had multiple holds come loose in very bad areas and I started getting spooked that the mountain was turning us around.

I don’t know the Hourglass, but I certainly wouldn’t describe what we experienced on the ridge as “solid.”

May the climber rest and the family find some peace 😞
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Re: Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by two lunches »

i'm making a guess that this was the part on WRI where i started throwing a temper tantrum when i went up with David as he was finishing the formal route description last year. i absolutely hated how loose that route was and i have been very concerned with the number of people claiming this is a safer alternative to the hourglass-- it is not. you are simply exchanging one risk factor for another. it's a harrowing dose of reality that not all of the 14ers are simple walk-ups and my heart goes out to anyone who was in the vicinity watching the recovery.

my deepest condolences to the climber's family and friends. i hope it brings them a modicum of comfort knowing the climber likely went out doing what they loved.
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Re: Death on Little Bear, West Ridge Indirect

Post by econner »

Wow, I climbed this route the day before on Jun 26. I didn't note anything to be loose at the crux, but I suppose that's how it happens and 60+ mph winds probably didn't help.

Very sad story, condolences to all involved.