Castle/Conundrum Saddle and Gully

[TakeMeToYourSummit]

I climbed Castle/Conundrum with my friends Cole and Nate last summer. Never before or since have I experienced the sounds (and sometimes sights) of near constant rockfall that this basin produces. As for the wet rocks you encountered - Just what happens with lots of rain the last few days over here. The saddle descent was dry last year as well... but is usually in snowier shape most years. In the basin below we had a couple scary moments as rocks came down where we stood only moments earlier. All things aside, it was a great day - and a decent introduction to the Elks.

[Tornadoman]

In my opinion, the route that goes down between the Castle/Conundrum saddle should only be used as a snow route. It is extremely loose and steep and I observed a group of 3 guys who were having a rough time of it last year. It isn't much longer to just go back over Castle and down its standard route, and that is much safer.

[tjerasdave]

I had a similiar experience on that route last year. The decent off the saddle was pretty loose and irritating but I never felt like I would have a problem stopping. However, the return trip back to the road can be tricky. My buddy kept left and wound up in some very sketchy/loose terrain. He warned me in time so I was able to start traversing right below the lake towards Castle, but the slope I was traversing on was very loose. There were multiple cases where I would step and rocks 10 feet above me on the slope would move around. If I had to do it again, I think I would rather go back over Castle but if you do take the saddle decent, make sure you stay to the descender's right and rejoin the trail off Castle as quickly as you can.

[Aug_Dog]

I echo the above sentiment - the saddle should not be used as a descent route unless filled in with snow. It's very dangerous.

[Dave_W]

This is prefect timing guys, as I am heading up this weekend. So to be clear, the gulley you are talking about is on the map as the North West ridge? Sounds like I want to avoid that, thanks for the suggestion to go back over Castle. A little more work for a safer day sounds good to me.

This site is awesome!

[milan]

I went down the saddle with no snow in September 2010, it was doable but very loose, right above the cliff band that you need to downclimb I had feelings that a fall would be pretty painful but not deadly. I had some issues around the lake to avoid crevasses, I had to go close to Conundrum wall and there were falling rocks, so I would say the same as the others, avoid it if you can. The group behind me triggered some decent rockfall when I was already out.

[GeezerClimber]

While climbing Castle a few weeks ago, we met a pro guide from Aspen and I asked him about the gully descent. He advised going back over Castle unless the gully was completely snow covered.

Dave

[Aug_Dog]

I wanted to add to my above post that we did in fact down climb from the saddle. It got hairy and to this day, is the most uncomfortable I have been on any mountain. We felt we needed to down climb it facing in. It was so sketch. Would never recommend it without snow.

[twhalm]

I have done that descent twice now. Last summer it was dry and it was probably one of the most dangerous situations I have ever put myself in. There was loose rock everywhere and and it was just a mess.

I did it a second time this spring when there was snow there and it was magnitudes better! If there is no snow for the descent I also recommend going back over castle.

[marciamallow]

I was there yesterday and heard rockfall the entire time. I saw at least a dozen climbers descended the gully without helmets and made it safely thank goodness. Personally, I went back over to Castle and felt it was a much safer option.

[Roald]

I climbed Castle a few years ago, but did not make the traverse over to Conundrum. Should I assume that ascending this gulley to climb Conundrum by itself is not a good idea? I don't mind climbing Castle again to get to Conundrum, but was hoping to save a little time by skipping it.

[painless4u2]

I wouldn't even think about going up that mess without snow there. It really doesn't take much time or effort to go up Castle then over to Conundrum. Same with going down.