This route is best climbed with stable snow on the slope leading up to the southeast ridge. From the 10,400-foot trailhead, follow the 4WD road up a short distance to a road junction and turn right toward Crystal Creek. Follow the steep, 4WD road for over a mile and to exit the heavy forest. After near 1.3 miles from the trailhead, cross the Wheeler trail. Continue on the road through Crystal Creek basin (
2) to Lower Crystal Lake, near 12,000'. Near the remnants of a mine building, turn left and continue up an old road -
3. Follow it up to the top of some talus at the mouth of a cirque between Mt. Helen and Father Dyer Peak. Climb up onto the rough talus and work your way west into the cirque -
4 and
5. Keep hauling over talus to reach the west end of the cirque and a slope leading to the southeast ridge -
6.
Climb the slope (
7) to gain the southeast ridge and turn right to see the remaining route -
8. Hike northwest along the ridge to the final summit pitch near 13,400' -
9. Carefully climb up steep rock (Difficult Class 2) to reach Dyer's tiny summit.
GPX File
TEMPORARY CLOSURE
