Little Bear Tips And Hints

[Shawn Cash]

Hey guys, just planning my Little Bear trip and just thought I would seek some advise from the wise to be more than prepared! Any hints or tips are more than appreciated and welcomed! You all rock! Love the community!

[Jeff Valliere]

Consider the SW Ridge:

http://www.summitpost.org/southwest-ridge/161162" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Shawn Cash]

I have actually been considering doing Roaches "tour de little bear" so I an avoid climbing the hourglass and just repel it.

[BillMiddlebrook]

Be careful with your access point for the SW Ridge. People have posted reports which use access from Tobin Creek, from private property. I wouldn't risk starting from private property

[screeman57]

My understanding is that the Tobin Creek TH itself is not on private property, but you have to cross private property in order to get to it. This past March, I got lost on those private roads looking for the TH, and one of the landowners gave me directions with no questions asked.

[BillMiddlebrook]

I know some of those private land owners have been telling law enforcement that they don't want people using the road and would like trespassing laws to be enforced. I've received correspondence from SAR about that and others have, as you can see by the note placed in that SP route description.

If I were to climb the SW Ridge route, I'd park on the Lake Como road and traverse to the ridge.

[Jeff Valliere]

Be careful with your access point for the SW Ridge. People have posted reports which use access from Tobin Creek, from private property. I wouldn't risk starting from private property

Thanks for the info Bill, I had not noticed that access update. I was on that trip with Ryan S. who maintains that Summitpost page and it seemed legit at the time, as there were no gates, fences or signage to discourage access. Seemed too good to be true, I guess it is.

I am not at all advocating trespassing, but some might look at the very slim chance of a trespassing ticket as being less of a threat than the hourglass. Or, it sounds like one can contour at ~8,800 feet to avoid the private property, but I have no idea what that would entail.

Another option would be to climb LB in the Spring via the hourglass when snow conditions are prime.

[Woodie Hopper]

Go very early and bring a helmet. You still have to watch for rockfall, but at least if no one is above you, there won't be anyone sending even more rocks down the hourglass your way.

I avoided downclimbing the hourglass by heading to Blanca over the ridge, but it's long and very exposed. If I downclimbed the hourglass, I wouldn't use the ropes as a crutch.

Woodie

[Shawn Cash]

Thanks Woodie, I have planned on using my own rope for the climb down or even thought about just repelling down. I might just have to consider the traverse if weather and time permits it! How early do you reccomend?

[herdbull]

Once through the hourglass take the route to the right of the rope anchor. If you hug the right side it's easy climbing and you can almost top out without ever having touched foot in the last 300' of loose crap up the main route. No need to launch rocks the hourglass if you can help it. It's solid and pretty straight forward one you get there.

If you climb with someone or meet someone go up side by side or one right on the heels of another. 2 sets of eyes, 2 sets of logic and watching each other use the holds is a great way to climb. No need to wait an hour for a another climber to summit before you start up. I did this with another guy and it worked perfect.

If there is a sketchy section just move over and let the guy in the lead finish it. If you are only a few feet below someone the rocks (if there are any) won't do any damage what so ever to you nogin, hands, or other important parts .

edit: no need to even touch the rope. take your time and be very deliberate with everything you do.

[Woodie Hopper]

Thanks Woodie, I have planned on using my own rope for the climb down or even thought about just repelling down. I might just have to consider the traverse if weather and time permits it! How early do you reccomend?

As early as possible. I hiked up from the valley and arrived at LB at dawn. If you are camping at Lake Como, I'd just make sure I arrived at the hourglass around sunup. When you summit if the weather looks great, go for it. If there is any chance of rain on the horizon, don't even think about starting the traverse. There isn't really anywhere you can safely bail other than retreating to LB or completing the traverse. There are multiple good TRs out there to check out if you haven't already.

Good luck whatever you decide.

Woodie

[Shawn Cash]

Woodie I appreciate your help! I will take all into consideration!