Ellingwood Point Trip Report 07/29/2008

Peak(s):	Ellingwood Point - 14,057 feet
Date Posted:	07/29/2008
Date Climbed:	07/27/2008
Author:	Matt

SW Ridge--worth the wait
Let me start by saying that any trip up the Lake Como road, on foot or via 4x4, brings adventure. Even if you summit just one of the three 14ers, this area means business. This is no weekend at Bierstadt or Elbert. The Blanca group is above what I call "tourist line," meaning it takes some effort to get there, weeding out both casual hikers and the unprepared folks who carry 50lb packs about 1 mile up the road in scorching heat before limping back to the car in defeat. Having both walked from the bottom and driven to 10,100ft before this trip, I can say that it is a bear no matter how you ascend to the lake. This was my third trip up that freaking road, and I had a one-track mind. While I've been atop Tsisnaasjini (Blanca Peak) twice and escaped the summit of LB in one piece, both trips left an Ellingwood-sized hole in my list and in my heart. A few weeks ago, Tommy Dorr emerged from the abyss with a post asking for partners for Pyramid Peak. Once we realized that he'd be there on the same day I was on Wilson Peak, plans had to change, and we decided to make the trek to Como for Ellingwood's SW ridge and a traverse over to Blanca for Tommy. Man, am I glad we did this... After stashing his Prius at an Alamosa motel, we hit the road a little after 16:00 with his band funking it up on the CD player. Last year, with no spotter, I got my truck about � mile before Jaws 1 before watching someone trash his 4-Runner on a shark fin, which made me want to start hiking. Let me just say that Tommy is one hell of a spotter and rock removal specialist. We made it to the base of Jaws 1, which is as far as anyone in a vehicle used daily should go. That cut the trip to the lake down to only two quick miles. Each hike up this road has been better than the last for me, and I am sure grateful...but not enough to be planning my next trip. We made camp, built a fire, took care of some Old Chubs, talked to some pediatric residents who got two whole days off, and crashed some time after 22:00. An 06:00 start quickly revealed my goal for the day, Ellingwood Point, and some dumb luck put me in the right place to capture the sun making its way into the basin. I'd like to thank Skier25 for his excellent route description and Jamie Nellis for her TR. Both proved really helpful later on in the climb. However, when we reached the lake and easy ramp up to the SW ridge, Tommy had other ideas. Since we both love loose scree so much, it was painful, but we scrapped the ramp and went up leftward from here: This put us on the ridge well before the ledge and Y-shaped fork, affording some extra credit ridge walking and skipping a bunch of loose crap below. The only drawback to this was that this way ascended through lots of wet grass. This made my feet slip a lot, and led to some really queasy moments later on. Tommy, on the other hand, was unfazed. This probably has something to do with his ultra-high tech footwear, which apparently got him up Pyramid, too. Who says you need the latest sticky-soled boots? Once we reached the point on the ridge that we had pictures of, things became pretty straightforward. By that, I mean we knew where to go, because there aren't too many options. Get on the ridge and stay there for most all of the climb. The route mixes class 2/2+ ridge walking with some class 3 moves up to the headwall. The rock is mostly solid, not counting the bogus handholds that demand you check carefully every time you grab. However, it's airy and you don't want to slip. It's probably the most exposed class 3 route I've done on a 14er. It might be the most fun, too. Surprisingly, the "knife edge" section tripped me out more than the more famous one on Capitol. That probably had something to do with my feet... For some reason, every time I noticed my feet weren't slipping, they got wet again somehow. I guess Montrail isn't too worried about traction... This made me a little tentative, and this was not the place for that. Besides slowing me down d/t second guessing and two short, but reachy downclimbs, it wasn't too bad. We picked our way up the headwall, which can be as difficult as you like, and found ourselves on the summit of my Sangre de Cristo finisher in what seemed like no time. With my quest over, Tommy was ready to bolt for Blanca after a couple minutes. I was happy to oblige, and we started across the traverse to the Blanca-Ellingwood saddle. This traverse is much easier to see and get started on from Ellingwood. It's mostly class 2, but we found some fun scrambling along the way, crossing a few gullies. When we reached the saddle, clouds were moving in from the Lindsey side. They looked like the typical Sangre fog clouds that envelop summits without any storm at all, but you never know, eh? It was decision time for me, but it was an easy one. Tommy moves faster than me, and I had no reason to encroach on a sacred peak for a third time. WTF? I've discussed climbing sacred peaks with two Dine medicine women from different clans and very different parts of the Navajo Nation. Both asked me the same question. "Why would you do that?" Both implied that one should have a very solid reason for doing so. Since a third summit of Blanca isn't really that important to me, I decided to be respectful and wait for Tommy. I've had some really odd, scary, and ultimately instructive experiences on all four of the peaks that create the boundaries of the Navajo universe, and I wasn't about to ask for trouble. Here's some background on the Sacred Peaks of the Navajo... http://www.lapahie.com/Sacred_Mts.cfm Anyway, while I waited, I did some chi kung and took pictures: Lindsey with and without clouds: Looking back at Ellingwood, shrouded in clouds: Back toward the San Luis Valley: Once a triumphant Tommy returned from the highest summit looking southward until you reach Mexico City, we headed down from the saddle. Even in such a harsh and weathered place, the flowers got to represent a little. Little Bear looked majestic, seeming to taunt me toward a repeat engagement via the NW face. No, thanks... Back at the lake, I noticed some folks getting their swim on. Since it was probably my last trip to Como, I had to join in for a brief dip. Oh, man, was it cold, but oh, so worth it... We were blessed to not meet any other vehicles on our way down the road. Coming down proved much tougher than going up, and a couple inattentive moments led to a couple bottoming-out moments, but we made it down with no apparent damage to my truck, which will never go up that road again. Having downhill hikers pass you on an obstacle is not the greatest feeling... What a great day!!!!! Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

SW Ridge--worth the wait

Let me start by saying that any trip up the Lake Como road, on foot or via 4x4, brings adventure. Even if you summit just one of the three 14ers, this area means business. This is no weekend at Bierstadt or Elbert. The Blanca group is above what I call "tourist line," meaning it takes some effort to get there, weeding out both casual hikers and the unprepared folks who carry 50lb packs about 1 mile up the road in scorching heat before limping back to the car in defeat. Having both walked from the bottom and driven to 10,100ft before this trip, I can say that it is a bear no matter how you ascend to the lake.

This was my third trip up that freaking road, and I had a one-track mind. While I've been atop Tsisnaasjini (Blanca Peak) twice and escaped the summit of LB in one piece, both trips left an Ellingwood-sized hole in my list and in my heart.

A few weeks ago, Tommy Dorr emerged from the abyss with a post asking for partners for Pyramid Peak. Once we realized that he'd be there on the same day I was on Wilson Peak, plans had to change, and we decided to make the trek to Como for Ellingwood's SW ridge and a traverse over to Blanca for Tommy. Man, am I glad we did this...

After stashing his Prius at an Alamosa motel, we hit the road a little after 16:00 with his band funking it up on the CD player. Last year, with no spotter, I got my truck about � mile before Jaws 1 before watching someone trash his 4-Runner on a shark fin, which made me want to start hiking. Let me just say that Tommy is one hell of a spotter and rock removal specialist.

We made it to the base of Jaws 1, which is as far as anyone in a vehicle used daily should go. That cut the trip to the lake down to only two quick miles. Each hike up this road has been better than the last for me, and I am sure grateful...but not enough to be planning my next trip.

We made camp, built a fire, took care of some Old Chubs, talked to some pediatric residents who got two whole days off, and crashed some time after 22:00.
An 06:00 start quickly revealed my goal for the day, Ellingwood Point, and some dumb luck put me in the right place to capture the sun making its way into the basin.

I'd like to thank Skier25 for his excellent route description and Jamie Nellis for her TR. Both proved really helpful later on in the climb. However, when we reached the lake and easy ramp up to the SW ridge, Tommy had other ideas. Since we both love loose scree so much, it was painful, but we scrapped the ramp and went up leftward from here:

This put us on the ridge well before the ledge and Y-shaped fork, affording some extra credit ridge walking and skipping a bunch of loose crap below.

The only drawback to this was that this way ascended through lots of wet grass. This made my feet slip a lot, and led to some really queasy moments later on. Tommy, on the other hand, was unfazed. This probably has something to do with his ultra-high tech footwear, which apparently got him up Pyramid, too. Who says you need the latest sticky-soled boots?

Once we reached the point on the ridge that we had pictures of, things became pretty straightforward. By that, I mean we knew where to go, because there aren't too many options. Get on the ridge and stay there for most all of the climb.

The route mixes class 2/2+ ridge walking with some class 3 moves up to the headwall. The rock is mostly solid, not counting the bogus handholds that demand you check carefully every time you grab. However, it's airy and you don't want to slip. It's probably the most exposed class 3 route I've done on a 14er. It might be the most fun, too. Surprisingly, the "knife edge" section tripped me out more than the more famous one on Capitol. That probably had something to do with my feet... For some reason, every time I noticed my feet weren't slipping, they got wet again somehow. I guess Montrail isn't too worried about traction... This made me a little tentative, and this was not the place for that. Besides slowing me down d/t second guessing and two short, but reachy downclimbs, it wasn't too bad. We picked our way up the headwall, which can be as difficult as you like, and found ourselves on the summit of my Sangre de Cristo finisher in what seemed like no time.

With my quest over, Tommy was ready to bolt for Blanca after a couple minutes. I was happy to oblige, and we started across the traverse to the Blanca-Ellingwood saddle. This traverse is much easier to see and get started on from Ellingwood. It's mostly class 2, but we found some fun scrambling along the way, crossing a few gullies.

When we reached the saddle, clouds were moving in from the Lindsey side. They looked like the typical Sangre fog clouds that envelop summits without any storm at all, but you never know, eh? It was decision time for me, but it was an easy one. Tommy moves faster than me, and I had no reason to encroach on a sacred peak for a third time.
WTF? I've discussed climbing sacred peaks with two Dine medicine women from different clans and very different parts of the Navajo Nation. Both asked me the same question. "Why would you do that?" Both implied that one should have a very solid reason for doing so. Since a third summit of Blanca isn't really that important to me, I decided to be respectful and wait for Tommy. I've had some really odd, scary, and ultimately instructive experiences on all four of the peaks that create the boundaries of the Navajo universe, and I wasn't about to ask for trouble.
Here's some background on the Sacred Peaks of the Navajo...
http://www.lapahie.com/Sacred_Mts.cfm

Anyway, while I waited, I did some chi kung and took pictures:
Lindsey with and without clouds:

Looking back at Ellingwood, shrouded in clouds:

Back toward the San Luis Valley:

Once a triumphant Tommy returned from the highest summit looking southward until you reach Mexico City, we headed down from the saddle. Even in such a harsh and weathered place, the flowers got to represent a little.

Little Bear looked majestic, seeming to taunt me toward a repeat engagement via the NW face. No, thanks...

Back at the lake, I noticed some folks getting their swim on. Since it was probably my last trip to Como, I had to join in for a brief dip. Oh, man, was it cold, but oh, so worth it...

We were blessed to not meet any other vehicles on our way down the road. Coming down proved much tougher than going up, and a couple inattentive moments led to a couple bottoming-out moments, but we made it down with no apparent damage to my truck, which will never go up that road again. Having downhill hikers pass you on an obstacle is not the greatest feeling...
What a great day!!!!!

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

susanjoypaul	Congrats 7/30/2008 12:28am ...on finishing the Sangres! I still have those two left, and will probably take this same route next month, so thanks for posting - will put this info to good use. Nice write-up, and show of restraint in not continuing all the way, on principle. What? They still haven‘t paved that damn road?
Papillon	Nice write up del_sur... 7/30/2008 3:49am It appears that you are within striking distance now. Best of luck on your finish. I look forward to following it on this site.
Chicalorado	Nice 7/30/2008 5:29am Well done and nice write up. When you going to do Pikes?
jeffro	Well done, Matt (and Tommy) 7/30/2008 3:47pm I really like your trip reports and your principles. Congrats on your Sangre de Cristo finale!! Jeff
lordhelmut	Nike shoes 7/30/2008 5:15pm No need to spend the big bucks on the overpriced backpacking shoe lines (although I do favor Vasque). I use my New Balance 991‘s on all day trips, they never fail. Its good to know someone else thought that ridge was surprisingly exposed, cause I sure did. Way to finish off the Sangres and have the determination to get all the way back there to climb just one peak. That road blows donkey nutz.
mtgirl	ha ha ha 7/30/2008 9:38pm Lordhelmet.....love that comment about the road ”blows donkey nutz” ! I was up there doing Blanca and Ellingwood a couple weekends ago. On the hike out, that #$%ing road had me so pissed off that I was beginning to sound worse than a truck driver....”#$%ing rock, #$%ing road, my #$%ing feet hurt, it‘s so *#$%ing hot” ! A few cold beers, and it was all good again !
cftbq	in the same boat... 7/31/2008 8:03pm Thanks, Matt; nice TR. Sooner or later, I have to re-experience that *&^^$$ road too, and for the exact same reason: Ellingwood, as we had to bail on it back in June.
benners	Great climb Matt! 7/31/2008 11:58pm Congrads on finishing the Sangres, makes one breathe a sigh of relief eh? I always have a good time reading your TR‘s, this one makes me wanna check out the SW ridge. Great climb and great TR!
Yog	Nice report 8/28/2008 12:37am Really enjoyed this one! Interesting to see that ridge without snow, I thought the exposure was pretty exhilerating too! Love the clouds in that range!!!

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