Peak(s): |
Crestone Needle - 14,196 feet |
Date Posted: | 08/19/2007 |
Date Climbed: | 08/18/2007 |
Author: | Matt |
Peak(s): |
Crestone Needle - 14,196 feet |
Date Posted: | 08/19/2007 |
Date Climbed: | 08/18/2007 |
Author: | Matt |
Rocking out on the Needle |
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After a great day on Crestone Peak, Jeff_F and I woke early again on Saturday and hit the trail for the Needle. I was looking forward to some climbing on the "knobby" rock everyone talks so much about. For the second consecutive day, there was no alpenglow to be had, but I did catch the sun on its way up. We trudged up Broken Hand Pass again. It felt better this time, for three reasons. First, we remembered the easiest way up from the day before. Second, we started later, so we could see without headlamps. Plus, just knowing I didn't have to do it again today or tomorrow seemed to make it go by quickly. Right before you reach the south face proper (way before the gully) there's a spot on the trail where there's a steep, rocky drop down to a flat spot. Here we encountered a guy who stashed his poles and took off like a spider up some seemingly random, steep route on the face. Later, we saw him far above us in the east gully"I guess there's more than one way up.... It turns out this guy was on a mission--he went up there, replaced the summit register, and promptly descended. After reading trip reports & Bill's route description, and after talking to Mike from Wyoming (camped next to us), we knew route finding was key. On the way to the gully's base, I stopped several times to compare the route pics with what was before my eyes. A common story/theme seemed to be missing the crossover from the east gully to the west gully, realizing the mistake a couple hundred feet later, and going back down to the proper exit. We hoped to learn from this and get it right the first time... As we started up the gully, the differences between climbing on the Peak vs. the Needle quickly became apparent. The Needle's gullies are steeper and require more sustained climbing. The rock is even better than the Peak's; it reminded me of climbing on multicolored, grippy cobblestones. Most of the way up the gully is well cairned, and there is minimal water in the gully's center. Jeff coming up the lower portion of the gully: Me climbing up: After ascending a few hundred feet, we started wondering when the crossover point to the west would become apparent. We discovered two things. First, route pics of prominent features don't guarantee that they will be obvious if you're looking from a different perspective. Second, we were running out of places to cross over onto the rib, but there was a sketchy spot to do so about 10 feet above us. We expected to gain the rib and cross over its top into the west gully. Such ignorance... The rib at this point was steep and quite exposed. After some sketchy class 4 moves upward, our off-piste adventure ended at an exposed class 5 move that neither of us wanted to risk. So, it was back down the rib--about 100 ft to the crossover point for people who pay attention. At least we made an original mistake... When ascending the gully, look to your left for the rock fins pictured below. They will be above you, on climber's left. When you see these guys, start looking for the faint trail that leads to your objective"the notch just to the right of the middle rock (shaped like a sharks' tooth). Turn left here: On the way down, we stopped and built a small cairn atop a protruding rock in the center of the gully, right where the crossover is found. After crossing through the notch, there is a cairn with yellow streamers attached. It's not visible until you are actually in the west gully, but it helps locate your exit on the descent. After being off route and on more dangerous rock than we bargained for, Jeff was almost a little too happy to see the cairns again... Summit fever took over, and soon I was standing atop the Needle. Unlike the day before, this summit was not ours alone. I chatted with two guys from Gunnison who'd come up the Ellingwood ledges and didn't need to use ropes. I was sure impressed. Jeff joined us a few minutes later, followed by three more groups, one of which had also come up the Ellingwood arête. Obligatory summit photo with the Peak in the background: As you can see, we're in jackets. Despite the sunny sky, it was windy and cold. I took a moment to be thankful that this was the worst weather I've had all season... There was no way we were going to stay there as long as we'd stayed on the Peak (1.5 hours), so we sat around, ate snacks, and talked with some other people. One group came up the east gully; a guy in jeans said it was no problem. I wasn't going to doubt a guy in jeans on a 14er. Next time... It almost always seems easier to find the correct/easiest route on the way down; this was no exception. I did have an ADD moment and find myself about 100 ft below the exit to Broken Hand Pass. I usually enjoy a brisk pace on the descent., but took my time to enjoy the best rock I've encountered on any 14er. This route is no cakewalk, but it's a great place to gain confidence on class 3 rock before thinking about anything harder. We dropped out of the gully, over to the pass, and down to the lake. I took one last look at the Needle: While Jeff broke camp (I was finished already), I grilled some brats and burgers. Jeff joined me after a while for some grub & a toast to a great summer"we've made eight 14er summits together so far this year, no small feat for people who live in different states. Good company makes for great climbs. I toasted with the best post-summit beer of all, Sierra Nevada Bigfoot. This was another awesome day to remember, and I can't wait to smile next time I drive toward the Sangres, knowing I've finally been blessed to stand atop the Crestones. |
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