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Peak(s)  Mt. Blue Sky  -  14,268 feet
Mt. Bierstadt  -  14,066 feet
Date Posted  05/23/2026
Modified  05/24/2026
Date Climbed   05/22/2026
Author  nico792
Additional Members   MtnsClimber42, Joe0sborne
 Bierstadt - Sawtooth - Evans/Blue Sky - 5/22/26 - Spring Snow Conditions   

Bierstadt → Sawtooth → Evans/Blue Sky | 5/22/26 | Spring Snow Conditions

Finally got the Sawtooth done. Three of us, Bierstadt to Evans/Blue Sky direction. About 11 hours car-to-car. Long day, great day, and one of those climbs that lives up to the hype.

The plan (and how we changed it)

The original idea was to do the full loop. Tag Bierstadt, run the Sawtooth, summit Evans/Blue Sky, and then traverse the ridge back over to Guanella Pass so we wouldn't need a second car. We'd looked at it on the map and convinced ourselves it would be fine. By the time we were standing on top of Evans/Blue Sky, all three of us were doing that thing where you stop talking and just stare at the next section of ridge like it personally wronged you. Dropped down to the Mt. Evans/Blue Sky trailhead parking lot instead and caught a ride back to Guanella from a really nice alpine rescuer who was checking out the opening of the Evans/Blue Sky trailhead. He didn't even hesitate, which was incredibly kind. Shoutout to him if he ever reads this.

Approach and Bierstadt

We left the Guanella Pass lot in the dark and hit the willows before sunrise. Everything was frozen rock solid, and we just walked right over the top of it. No sinking, no thrashing around in the channels. By the time we got to the base of Bierstadt's west slope, the snow was continuous, and we threw on the snowshoes. The slope went smoothly. We topped out on Bierstadt right as the sun was getting going, looked over at the Sawtooth, and had a brief group moment of "oh, that's what we're doing today."

Descent off Bierstadt

This is where it stopped being a hike and started being something else. The northwest side of Bierstadt down to the saddle held firm, supportive snow. It was steep enough that we ditched the snowshoes, kept the microspikes on, and got the ice axes out and in hand. Nothing crazy technical, mostly side-hilling and careful plunge-stepping, but it's the kind of slope where a slip is not the kind of thing you walk away from. The axe stayed in hand from that point all the way through the traverse.

The Sawtooth

Honestly the highlight of the day. Snow on the ledge system was firm, supportive, predictable. No postholing, no soft surprises. Route-finding took some attention because the standard line was buried in a few places and we drifted a little too high at one point before correcting back down to where the cairns picked up again. Trust the cairns when you can see them.

The exposure on the catwalk feels more serious in these conditions than the dry summer trip reports make it sound. The snow narrows the usable ledge, and a slip in the wrong spot wouldn't be recoverable. Helmets were on from the base of the Sawtooth onward. The scramble up out of the notch was the technical crux, Class 3 rock with snow and ice packed into the cracks right where you want your hands and feet to go. We took it slow and tested holds; no drama. But it's the kind of section where you want partners you trust on mixed ground.

Summit and descent

Topped out onto the Evans/Blue Sky plateau and got immediately worked over by the wind. Sustained 30+ with stronger gusts the whole way to the summit. We stopped just long enough for the obligatory photo and got moving again because standing still got cold fast. The walk down to the Mt. Evans/Blue Sky trailhead parking lot was mellow, mostly road and connecting snow patches. Then the hitchhiking. Then home.

Gear

Snowshoes for the Bierstadt ascent. Microspikes the entire time after that. Ice axe out from the Bierstadt descent through the whole traverse. Helmets on for the Sawtooth.

Stuff worth knowing

  • Get there early. The willows will not be frozen for much longer and that approach turns miserable fast.
  • Route-finding on the catwalk is harder with partial snow cover. Don't drift high.
  • Exposure on the snow-covered ledges is real. Treat it that way.
  • Cornices still hanging on the north side of the ridge between the notch and Evans/Blue Sky. Stay back.
  • Wind on the Evans/Blue Sky plateau was no joke. Bring real layers.

All three of us summited both peaks and got home with all our fingers and toes. Big day, would absolutely do it again. Happy to answer questions for anyone planning this in the next couple weeks!




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