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Peak(s)  Quandary Peak  -  14,272 feet
Date Posted  04/06/2026
Date Climbed   04/05/2026
Author  MtnMike15
 Quandary - Quandary Couloir   

Great route! This route exceeded my expectations. We reached the trailhead at 5am and were the only ones there. The summer trailhead is still closed, but I suspect not for too much longer. The 2-mile walk was very pleasant and only a few sections extremely close to the actual trailhead were covered in snow. Navigating to the base of the couloir took a little bit of route-finding skills, but it turned into us continuing to hike higher until we saw the lake. From the lake we hiked up to the last dry section before the couloir's entrance. We downed poptarts and gus in preparation. The entire route is very sustained with gain besides the crux. We were passed by another climber after the crux. He thankfully broke trail and then disappeared towards the summit at a much faster pace. Conditions heavily relied on area in the climb. Most of the climb was filled with firm frozen snow, while a few sections, most importantly the crux, were filled with loose snow. The top is filled with extremely loose rock that likely will become an issue later on in the season as sections thaw. The final bits of the couloir and the last 350 feet to the summit were my least favorite parts. The snow disappeared and only the extremely loose previously mentioned rocks were left. It was somewhat cumbersome to navigate, and I may or may not have stumbled a few times through this section. At the summit we were greeted with many hikers who did the standard route. We ended up taking the standard route down. There were a few fun sections to slide through, but most of it was compacted slush that was easy to slip on. We removed our crampons at the summit and forgot to bring micro spikes, so a few more stumbles occurred. We returned back to the car around one to find the lot about half full. Overall great climb with no issues!

23431_03
First view of Quandary Couloir


23431_04
Entering the Choke @ ~12.5k


23431_01
Final bit of consistent snow before the mixed snow/rock push to the top


23431_02
At the summit!





Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):
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Comments or Questions
Climbdent
User
Couloir?
4/7/2026 4:27pm
Cristo Couloir?


Kiefer
User
Nice
4/8/2026 3:12pm
Quandary Couloir has been on my short list for a while. Good to see it's still in this year! Might have to switch some things up and head that way.


TheNative
User
Awesome
4/8/2026 5:06pm
Good job!


jeremydt04
User
Reverse route?
4/12/2026 4:23pm
I’d like to hike up the main way and ski down. Think it would be nice?


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