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Peak(s)  Pikes Peak  -  14,109 feet
Date Posted  12/12/2024
Date Climbed   10/12/2024
Author  omort10
 Pikes Peak - Northeast Ridge   

We found this route in a local guidebook. The guidebook said it was class 3, but could be made into class 4/5 or as easy as class 2. The rock on this route is incredible in quality.

We started bright and early up the Barr trial.

About 10 miles up the trail, we followed a very light animal trail up towards a gully that led to the northeast ridge. The actual ridge involved a decent amount of route finding, including some hidden gaps that led the way the way through.

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A little class 3 at the start of the climb. Not as bad as it looks.

Almost every tricky section could be avoided by skirting down and around the left side (towards barr trail). My partner stayed somewhat on the ridge proper, which involved class 5 climbing and down climbing. Be careful, because if you try to keep to the ridge proper there are a couple of big gaps that probably would require a leap (maybe a jetpack). There were a couple of fun moves, including a cool squeeze move which we nicknamed boy hole. Follow gullies to get on the ridge and either rappel or downclimb off when the ridge deadends (this is often).

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Going through the squeeze (boy hole)

We made it to the top of the ride at about 11:30. In our opinion, it was a fun way to summit Pikes, however, the only way it would ever be worth it is if you drove to the top, hiked down 2 miles and then scrambled back up the ridge with a rope and gear and stayed on the ridge proper. Fun climbing, but go somewhere else.

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Looking back at the ridge from the end of the scrambling



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