Maroon Peak Trip Report 07/31/2023

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Maroon Peak - 14,163 feet North Maroon Peak - 14,022 feet
Date Posted	07/31/2023
Modified	08/01/2023
Date Climbed	07/29/2023
Author	cvbuffs

Finishing Up the CO 14ers - Bells Traverse (Maroon to N. Maroon)
Climbed Maroon peak, followed by the traverse along to N. Maroon and down the standard N. Maroon route. Nothing major to report outside of the most recent trail conditions. Trail was entirely dry all the way up Maroon Peak with no need for traction. Be sure to have the route mapped and pulled up when the trail splits from the West Maroon trail. My climbing partner and I directed three parties up the correct route at the junction as we were delayering (weather was hot even at 4:30am). We ascended gully 1, and would recommend sticking to the left as you approach the cut over. A group of us climbed a bit too high and had to slightly backtrack across some looser rock to get to the exit from the gully. One other climber tried heading around to gully 2 but eventually came back and joined the rest of us in gully 1, so while I can't report on the conditions of gully 2, I would say that the best bet is to stick with gully 1. The large gully following that was loose and crummy and took a lot out of the legs. From the top of Maroon, a now group of 6 of us descended to the Bell Cord. There were some interesting downclimb moves that felt a little more advanced than the route description and other various reports and videos make it seem. The first tower was easy to find and ascend and was IMO the easiest of the what I would consider the four difficulties (downclimb to cord, towers 1 thru 3). After getting to tower 2, we weren't sure that we were in the right spot, but after examining the route we recognized the overhanging ledges. Pretty airy climbing on solid rock followed and we were quickly to the third tower/crux. While I think the second tower was more technical to climb with more exposure, the third tower was challenging with a pack on. Thankfully, a member of the party had a short 15 ft. section of paracord and we rope up the packs to make climbing the section easier (see picture). Without a pack, you're able to turn and climb the face on the left and secure your back to the rock behind for added security. From the top of the third tower there are still a couple of airy moves and more loose rock, but if you've made it this far the worst climbing is over. At photo 15 in the guide, I would recommend climbing up and over. Myself and two others went low and regretted our decision after talking to the group that went high. Once you clear this section there are still some class 3 and 4 moves to make it to the summit of N. Maroon. At the summit of N. Maroon we met up with the second half of our group that had only ascended N. Maroon and made our way down. The top is very loose until you get to the chimney area. It was definitely nice to have them to spot on the chimney section since there is still a little bit of ice/snow at the very base. After that it's a lot of ledges and looseness until the rock glacier, but it felt similar to some of the climbing on Pyramid. Once to Minnehaha Creek we quickly filtered some water and were back to the lake/camp in no time to pack up and finish the hike out. Splits: Hike in to just past site 9; 1 hour Hike to summit Maroon; 5 hours Traverse; 1:50 hours Down N. Maroon; 4 hours This was 3 of 4 of the great traverses for me (ED to Mt. Wilson, Crestones, Bells) and peaks 57 and 58 to complete the CO 14ers. My climbing partner, having done the LB to Blanca traverse said this one was more technical with the climbing, but not as sketchy as LB to Blanca. It was definitely the most challenging of the three I accomplished with the Crestones being the easiest, followed by ED to Mt. Wilson, and the Bells by a wide margin. I would like to thank the other climbers that day on the traverse that we ended up partnering with. Our collective experience and route knowledge was key to completing this section of route and honestly don't know how the day would have been without them. I would say that it is not uncommon on some of these routes to find yourself partnered with complete strangers at random during very intense climbing and bond over the shared experience. It's truly wonderful the sense of community that tackling these peaks creates. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Finishing Up the CO 14ers - Bells Traverse (Maroon to N. Maroon)

Climbed Maroon peak, followed by the traverse along to N. Maroon and down the standard N. Maroon route.

Nothing major to report outside of the most recent trail conditions. Trail was entirely dry all the way up Maroon Peak with no need for traction. Be sure to have the route mapped and pulled up when the trail splits from the West Maroon trail. My climbing partner and I directed three parties up the correct route at the junction as we were delayering (weather was hot even at 4:30am).

We ascended gully 1, and would recommend sticking to the left as you approach the cut over. A group of us climbed a bit too high and had to slightly backtrack across some looser rock to get to the exit from the gully. One other climber tried heading around to gully 2 but eventually came back and joined the rest of us in gully 1, so while I can't report on the conditions of gully 2, I would say that the best bet is to stick with gully 1.

The large gully following that was loose and crummy and took a lot out of the legs.

From the top of Maroon, a now group of 6 of us descended to the Bell Cord. There were some interesting downclimb moves that felt a little more advanced than the route description and other various reports and videos make it seem. The first tower was easy to find and ascend and was IMO the easiest of the what I would consider the four difficulties (downclimb to cord, towers 1 thru 3).

After getting to tower 2, we weren't sure that we were in the right spot, but after examining the route we recognized the overhanging ledges. Pretty airy climbing on solid rock followed and we were quickly to the third tower/crux. While I think the second tower was more technical to climb with more exposure, the third tower was challenging with a pack on. Thankfully, a member of the party had a short 15 ft. section of paracord and we rope up the packs to make climbing the section easier (see picture). Without a pack, you're able to turn and climb the face on the left and secure your back to the rock behind for added security.

From the top of the third tower there are still a couple of airy moves and more loose rock, but if you've made it this far the worst climbing is over. At photo 15 in the guide, I would recommend climbing up and over. Myself and two others went low and regretted our decision after talking to the group that went high. Once you clear this section there are still some class 3 and 4 moves to make it to the summit of N. Maroon.

At the summit of N. Maroon we met up with the second half of our group that had only ascended N. Maroon and made our way down. The top is very loose until you get to the chimney area. It was definitely nice to have them to spot on the chimney section since there is still a little bit of ice/snow at the very base. After that it's a lot of ledges and looseness until the rock glacier, but it felt similar to some of the climbing on Pyramid. Once to Minnehaha Creek we quickly filtered some water and were back to the lake/camp in no time to pack up and finish the hike out.

Splits:

Hike in to just past site 9; 1 hour

Hike to summit Maroon; 5 hours

Traverse; 1:50 hours

Down N. Maroon; 4 hours

This was 3 of 4 of the great traverses for me (ED to Mt. Wilson, Crestones, Bells) and peaks 57 and 58 to complete the CO 14ers. My climbing partner, having done the LB to Blanca traverse said this one was more technical with the climbing, but not as sketchy as LB to Blanca. It was definitely the most challenging of the three I accomplished with the Crestones being the easiest, followed by ED to Mt. Wilson, and the Bells by a wide margin.

I would like to thank the other climbers that day on the traverse that we ended up partnering with. Our collective experience and route knowledge was key to completing this section of route and honestly don't know how the day would have been without them. I would say that it is not uncommon on some of these routes to find yourself partnered with complete strangers at random during very intense climbing and bond over the shared experience. It's truly wonderful the sense of community that tackling these peaks creates.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

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