Torreys Peak Trip Report 05/07/2015

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Torreys Peak - 14,272 feet Grays Peak - 14,275 feet
Date Posted	05/07/2015
Modified	05/08/2015
Date Climbed	05/03/2015
Author	globreal

The Power of Positive Thinking in the Dead Dog Couloir
Grays Peak is left & Torrey's Peak is right (photo courtesy Jeff Speake) Torrey's Peak-14,267 feet Grays Peak-14,270 Approach Date: 02 May, 2015 Climb Date: 03 May, 2015 Crew: Jeff Speake (CMC Leader), Jason Gross (CMC Leader), Kelly Greaser (CMC Leader), Court Hilton, Roger Leikas, Rondi Burgess, Mindy Decker, Kris Woyna, Logs Rule, Peter Kent, Britt Jones (me) Mileage: 14.5 miles approximate Vertical Feet: 4,900 approximate Trailhead: Steve's Gulch Winter trailhead at I-70 (exit 221/Bakersville exit) Climbing the Dead Dog couloir on the east face of Torreys Peak has been something I've wanted to do for several years. What can I say...climbing steep snow gullies are awesome! The time finally came to get this couloir climbed with my HAMS class. (HAMS is the acronym for the Colorado Mountain Club's HIGH ALTITUDE MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL.) I have been climbing some of the state highpoints over the past year. I sorta took them on after finishing the "14ers" and then finishing the "Centennials" which are Colorado's highest 100 ranked peaks. So, as I set my sights on the state high points, I knew I wanted Mt. Rainier...Washington state's highest point. This is probably the most tricky highpoint in the lower 48 because it's loaded with glaciers and deep crevasses. Therefore, I knew I needed to learn about climbing glaciated peaks; something I knew nothing about. So, I applied to the CMC for their HAMS class this past winter for some much needed education. I was so grateful that I was accepted into the class because there are actually some pre-requisites (CMC classes) that I hadn't taken. I guess they figured I had enough of a peak bagging resume and experience to be accepted. Thanks John and Debbie for letting me in HAMS! After going through all of our class work from January through April, our Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver group went out together as a team to climb the Dead Dog couloir this first weekend of May. Gearing up a the trailhead always seems to take a longer than expected. Add in ropes, harnesses, winter camping gear...well, um....it took even longer. (NOTE: Ropes and harness are not necessary to climb the Dead Dog couloir. We were just practicing for Rainier.) Gearing up at the trailhead Finally we are on our way, all eleven of us, heading up the Steven's Gulch road. Just around this corner the snow on the road begins. So, we parked at the winter trailhead down at I-70, three miles below the summer trailhead. Many people attempt to drive up this snowy road...but then they usually wish they hadn't. In fact, on our way out on Sunday, we passed a group who had slid off into the ditch and got stuck. And then a tow truck driver came and also couldn't make it up in the soft afternoon snow, to the vehicle in the ditch. The driver had to come back the next morning to attempt it on harder, frozen snow to tow them out. And we're off! We set up camp in the summer TH parking lot which made for a nice camping spot with level ground to sleep on and plenty of space to spread our tents out. Home sweet home...for a night anyway After tents were up and sleeping bags arranged, we headed out for roped travel practice. It will be a good thing on Rainier having practiced getting into harnesses, setting up prusiks, sectioning the rope into 3rds or 4ths, checking each others gear for safety, and then traveling/turning on a rope where you have to prusik in or prusik out to remove any slack in the rope. Roped travel We hiked up another mile and half to two miles during this late evening exercise. After a short night in the tents the 3am wake-up call came. We had set a 4am departure time and I was actually surprised to see that all eleven of us were on the trail pretty close to that time. Now, one of the blessings of getting up early... Sunrise over Steven's Gulch! And there it is....our objective, the Dead Dog couloir. This mountain was looking glorious in the sunrise alpineglow. The Dead Dog is a really nice, and yet moderate snow climb. It's a 1,500 foot gully that starts around 12,500 and goes up over 14,000 feet and yet it doesn't get terribly steep. For those that don't know, climbing loaded snow gullies in the middle of winter is extremely dangerous because of the avalanche potential. Soft, un-bonded snow can, and does, release with added weight or new forces. In fact, a person died this past winter in this very basin due to an avalanche. So waiting until the spring thaw-freeze cycle is a very wise idea for attempting this couloir (and many other couloirs) in Colorado. Alpine glow on Torrey's Peak and the Dead Dog Couloir You can see (in the lower part of this next photo) the avalanche(s) that have run since last weeks storm where we got three feet of new snow in the high country. My personal Modus Operandi, is to wait three to four days after the last big storm, before heading out to climb avy prone areas. I think a lot of people believe that snow is always a light and fluffy powder. Ummm no. It compacts. And when avalanches release, it's usually a hard packed wind slab (like concrete) on top of a softer layer underneath that collapses. And so what comes down in an avalance is more like ice blocks! Entering the Dead Dog Couloir climbing is strenuous! Just because the added variable of loose rock is hidden under the snow, doesn't mean this kind of route is now easy. Kicking steps is hard work! And the loose snow can fall away under your feet. Post holing into deep snow is arduous! Even though Jason here makes it look easy. Jason leads us up Follow the leader It's getting steeper! After a while, the intensity of this kind of exercise at altitude takes it's toll. Rondi's face says it all. Her quote to me was, "Britt, I think this is the hardest thing I've ever done." A picture is worth a 1000 words! Kelly here is all smiles...cuz she is a climbing machine and doesn't feel pain. Kelly enjoying her morning out After a hour or so of climbing we decide to take a break at this crag area so we can rest, eat and drink. It was the only place along the couloir that had any semblance of a seating area. Jeff Speake takes a group photo for us. Rest time. (photo courtesy Jeff Speake) I had a little scrambling fun on the rock. Britt off the snow and on the rock. (photo courtesy Jeff Speake) After our break...let the snow climbing resume! And the angle increases. Can you tell by all of the hands on the snow? Steeper yet And it didn't take to long for the effects of climbing at elevation to take hold. You can see from the climber experiencing complete exhaustion. Collapsing on the snow During this climb up Dead Dog couloir, I had several climbers say to me things like, "this is the hardest thing I've ever done", "I am completely spent," and "I just don't know if I can make it." So, I was able to share my experience of reading a book that really changed my life...especially in regards to climbing. It's called DEEP SURVIVAL. Who Lives, Who Dies, and Why. It's not like climbing the Dead Dog couloir is a life or death matter. However, the points Laurence brings to light is relevant in difficult situations like encountered when climbing at elevation. this book changed my thinking The author investigated numerous accidents and incidents in which people died, and also in the same accident, some survived. The book was eye opening to me as it revealed a proven outcome...the power of positive thinking! The bottom line...those who stayed focused on a goal, and talked themselves through the difficulties, with a positive mental attitude, usually succeeded and survived in their life threatening situation. Those who talked negatively to themselves, didn't set a goal, and or panicked, mostly didn't survive in the accidents he investigated. After reading DEEP SURVIVAL, when I find myself in a difficult/painful climb, saying something positive like this: "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time." "How do you climb a mountain? One step at a time!" And then I almost get to the point of repeating to myself something positive like, "I am going to get this summit"..."It's only ??? feet to the summit. I am not stopping until I am on top." And you know what, saying these positive words....? IT WORKS! The end of the couloir is in sight. It's not much further now! The end is near! It was such a wonderful feeling to finally make it up and out of the Dead Dog couloir and now be on the final ridge to the summit! (You can go to full-screen video if you click on the icon in the lower right-hand corner that looks like a picture frame.) After climbing out of the couloir, it's only a short jaunt to the actual summit of Torrey's Peak. Climbing to the final summit of Torrey's Peak Mindy is elated to have made the summit of Torrey's Peak (14,267). Happy Mindy! That "face of pain" Rondi was sporting earlier has now been transformed into smiles on the summit. Rondi now has a smile Court kinda has that "hail to the King" summit stance don't ya think? A victorious Court We were successful in that all eleven of us made it to the summit. It was questionable at times however, all persevered and prevailed. Here is the summit shot with each and every one of us. Summit's Eleven (Not Ocean's Eleven) After pictures and celebratory "high fives" we head down to the saddle between Torrey's Peak and Grays Peak. Check out the size of that cornice to the left of the hikers. Compare the size or depth of that snow cornice to the size of the people. It's got to be a least 50 feet tall! Can you say CORNICE? Just after the saddle and a little ways up is the left turn to head underneath Grays Peak and then head down. Most of the group did that, but four of us headed on up to climb Grays. I am on a small quest to repeat all of the 14ers, and so I was hoping we were going to have decent enough weather to climb this peak as well. Grays Peak Halfway up the slope to Grays, this was the view back down into Steven's Gulch. We camped at the edge of the trees you can see in the back. This is where the summer trailhead is. Steven's Gulch Jason and Peter making the last few steps to the summit. Almost to Grays summit Peter, Britt, Logs, and Jason happy to have gotten to the top of our second summit of the day. Torrey's Peak behind us, was our first summit earlier today. On Grays Peak (14,270 feet) Down below we can see the rest of our group making their was back to our snowshoe stash. At that ridge where they are about to get to, is where we needed to turn left to get back to our snow shoes that were stashed. And so we stayed on the left side of that ridge instead of heading straight back into the main part of Steven's Gulch. Heading down Now back to the concept of the power of positive thinking. Lately, I have really needed to apply that to my own life beyond climbing in mountains. I have struggled to find video (work) projects to earn a living, and to have a purpose when I don't have work. It's been really hard to say the least as the negative thoughts want to take over. I am so glad to have read DEEP SURVIVAL as it has helped me to come back to focusing on the positive and not dwelling on the negative. Philippians 4 6 Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your requests to God. 7 And the peace of God, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus. 8 Finally, brothers, whatever is true, whatever is noble, whatever is right, whatever is pure, whatever is lovely, whatever is admirable--if anything is excellent or praiseworthy--think about such things. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

The Power of Positive Thinking in the Dead Dog Couloir

Grays Peak is left & Torrey's Peak is right (photo courtesy Jeff Speake)

Torrey's Peak-14,267 feet
Grays Peak-14,270
Approach Date: 02 May, 2015
Climb Date: 03 May, 2015
Crew: Jeff Speake (CMC Leader), Jason Gross (CMC Leader), Kelly Greaser (CMC Leader), Court Hilton, Roger Leikas, Rondi Burgess, Mindy Decker, Kris Woyna, Logs Rule, Peter Kent, Britt Jones (me)
Mileage: 14.5 miles approximate
Vertical Feet: 4,900 approximate
Trailhead: Steve's Gulch Winter trailhead at I-70 (exit 221/Bakersville exit)

Climbing the Dead Dog couloir on the east face of Torreys Peak has been something I've wanted to do for several years. What can I say...climbing steep snow gullies are awesome! The time finally came to get this couloir climbed with my HAMS class. (HAMS is the acronym for the Colorado Mountain Club's HIGH ALTITUDE MOUNTAINEERING SCHOOL.)

I have been climbing some of the state highpoints over the past year. I sorta took them on after finishing the "14ers" and then finishing the "Centennials" which are Colorado's highest 100 ranked peaks. So, as I set my sights on the state high points, I knew I wanted Mt. Rainier...Washington state's highest point. This is probably the most tricky highpoint in the lower 48 because it's loaded with glaciers and deep crevasses. Therefore, I knew I needed to learn about climbing glaciated peaks; something I knew nothing about. So, I applied to the CMC for their HAMS class this past winter for some much needed education. I was so grateful that I was accepted into the class because there are actually some pre-requisites (CMC classes) that I hadn't taken. I guess they figured I had enough of a peak bagging resume and experience to be accepted. Thanks John and Debbie for letting me in HAMS!

After going through all of our class work from January through April, our Rainier/Disappointment Cleaver group went out together as a team to climb the Dead Dog couloir this first weekend of May.

Gearing up a the trailhead always seems to take a longer than expected. Add in ropes, harnesses, winter camping gear...well, um....it took even longer.
(NOTE: Ropes and harness are not necessary to climb the Dead Dog couloir. We were just practicing for Rainier.)

Finally we are on our way, all eleven of us, heading up the Steven's Gulch road. Just around this corner the snow on the road begins. So, we parked at the winter trailhead down at I-70, three miles below the summer trailhead. Many people attempt to drive up this snowy road...but then they usually wish they hadn't. In fact, on our way out on Sunday, we passed a group who had slid off into the ditch and got stuck. And then a tow truck driver came and also couldn't make it up in the soft afternoon snow, to the vehicle in the ditch. The driver had to come back the next morning to attempt it on harder, frozen snow to tow them out.

We set up camp in the summer TH parking lot which made for a nice camping spot with level ground to sleep on and plenty of space to spread our tents out.

After tents were up and sleeping bags arranged, we headed out for roped travel practice. It will be a good thing on Rainier having practiced getting into harnesses, setting up prusiks, sectioning the rope into 3rds or 4ths, checking each others gear for safety, and then traveling/turning on a rope where you have to prusik in or prusik out to remove any slack in the rope.

We hiked up another mile and half to two miles during this late evening exercise. After a short night in the tents the 3am wake-up call came. We had set a 4am departure time and I was actually surprised to see that all eleven of us were on the trail pretty close to that time.

Now, one of the blessings of getting up early...

And there it is....our objective, the Dead Dog couloir. This mountain was looking glorious in the sunrise alpineglow. The Dead Dog is a really nice, and yet moderate snow climb. It's a 1,500 foot gully that starts around 12,500 and goes up over 14,000 feet and yet it doesn't get terribly steep. For those that don't know, climbing loaded snow gullies in the middle of winter is extremely dangerous because of the avalanche potential. Soft, un-bonded snow can, and does, release with added weight or new forces. In fact, a person died this past winter in this very basin due to an avalanche. So waiting until the spring thaw-freeze cycle is a very wise idea for attempting this couloir (and many other couloirs) in Colorado.

Alpine glow on Torrey's Peak and the Dead Dog Couloir

You can see (in the lower part of this next photo) the avalanche(s) that have run since last weeks storm where we got three feet of new snow in the high country. My personal Modus Operandi, is to wait three to four days after the last big storm, before heading out to climb avy prone areas. I think a lot of people believe that snow is always a light and fluffy powder. Ummm no. It compacts. And when avalanches release, it's usually a hard packed wind slab (like concrete) on top of a softer layer underneath that collapses. And so what comes down in an avalance is more like ice blocks!

Couloir climbing is strenuous! Just because the added variable of loose rock is hidden under the snow, doesn't mean this kind of route is now easy. Kicking steps is hard work! And the loose snow can fall away under your feet. Post holing into deep snow is arduous! Even though Jason here makes it look easy.

After a while, the intensity of this kind of exercise at altitude takes it's toll. Rondi's face says it all. Her quote to me was, "Britt, I think this is the hardest thing I've ever done."

Kelly here is all smiles...cuz she is a climbing machine and doesn't feel pain.

After a hour or so of climbing we decide to take a break at this crag area so we can rest, eat and drink. It was the only place along the couloir that had any semblance of a seating area. Jeff Speake takes a group photo for us.

I had a little scrambling fun on the rock.

Britt off the snow and on the rock. (photo courtesy Jeff Speake)

After our break...let the snow climbing resume! And the angle increases. Can you tell by all of the hands on the snow?

And it didn't take to long for the effects of climbing at elevation to take hold. You can see from the climber experiencing complete exhaustion.

During this climb up Dead Dog couloir, I had several climbers say to me things like, "this is the hardest thing I've ever done", "I am completely spent," and "I just don't know if I can make it." So, I was able to share my experience of reading a book that really changed my life...especially in regards to climbing. It's called DEEP SURVIVAL. Who Lives, Who Dies, and Why. It's not like climbing the Dead Dog couloir is a life or death matter. However, the points Laurence brings to light is relevant in difficult situations like encountered when climbing at elevation.

The author investigated numerous accidents and incidents in which people died, and also in the same accident, some survived. The book was eye opening to me as it revealed a proven outcome...the power of positive thinking! The bottom line...those who stayed focused on a goal, and talked themselves through the difficulties, with a positive mental attitude, usually succeeded and survived in their life threatening situation. Those who talked negatively to themselves, didn't set a goal, and or panicked, mostly didn't survive in the accidents he investigated. After reading DEEP SURVIVAL, when I find myself in a difficult/painful climb, saying something positive like this: "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time." "How do you climb a mountain? One step at a time!" And then I almost get to the point of repeating to myself something positive like, "I am going to get this summit"..."It's only ??? feet to the summit. I am not stopping until I am on top." And you know what, saying these positive words....? IT WORKS!

The end of the couloir is in sight. It's not much further now!

It was such a wonderful feeling to finally make it up and out of the Dead Dog couloir and now be on the final ridge to the summit! (You can go to full-screen video if you click on the icon in the lower right-hand corner that looks like a picture frame.)

After climbing out of the couloir, it's only a short jaunt to the actual summit of Torrey's Peak.

Climbing to the final summit of Torrey's Peak

Mindy is elated to have made the summit of Torrey's Peak (14,267).

That "face of pain" Rondi was sporting earlier has now been transformed into smiles on the summit.

Court kinda has that "hail to the King" summit stance don't ya think?

We were successful in that all eleven of us made it to the summit. It was questionable at times however, all persevered and prevailed. Here is the summit shot with each and every one of us.

After pictures and celebratory "high fives" we head down to the saddle between Torrey's Peak and Grays Peak. Check out the size of that cornice to the left of the hikers. Compare the size or depth of that snow cornice to the size of the people. It's got to be a least 50 feet tall!

Just after the saddle and a little ways up is the left turn to head underneath Grays Peak and then head down. Most of the group did that, but four of us headed on up to climb Grays. I am on a small quest to repeat all of the 14ers, and so I was hoping we were going to have decent enough weather to climb this peak as well.

Halfway up the slope to Grays, this was the view back down into Steven's Gulch. We camped at the edge of the trees you can see in the back. This is where the summer trailhead is.

Jason and Peter making the last few steps to the summit.

Peter, Britt, Logs, and Jason happy to have gotten to the top of our second summit of the day. Torrey's Peak behind us, was our first summit earlier today.

Down below we can see the rest of our group making their was back to our snowshoe stash. At that ridge where they are about to get to, is where we needed to turn left to get back to our snow shoes that were stashed. And so we stayed on the left side of that ridge instead of heading straight back into the main part of Steven's Gulch.

Now back to the concept of the power of positive thinking. Lately, I have really needed to apply that to my own life beyond climbing in mountains. I have struggled to find video (work) projects to earn a living, and to have a purpose when I don't have work. It's been really hard to say the least as the negative thoughts want to take over. I am so glad to have read DEEP SURVIVAL as it has helped me to come back to focusing on the positive and not dwelling on the negative.

Philippians 4
6 Do not be anxious about anything, but in everything, by prayer and petition, with thanksgiving, present your requests to God. 7 And the peace of God, which transcends all understanding, will guard your hearts and your minds in Christ Jesus. 8 Finally, brothers, whatever is true, whatever is noble, whatever is right, whatever is pure, whatever is lovely, whatever is admirable--if anything is excellent or praiseworthy--think about such things.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

amnicola	Survival Revival 5/10/2015 9:22am You captured the emotions of pain and triumph in both word and pictures. Grays and Torrey’s were my daughter’s first fourteeners. We came up the traditional route alongside the Lost Rat Couloir, and I asked her repeatedly––"Do you think you are going to make it", and she would say, "I don’t know". Giving her encouragement, I finally asked her, "tell me when you KNOW you are going to make it." She finally said "I know I’m going to make it!" when she was within a few dozen paces of the summit of Grays. Then I pointed over to Torrey’s Peak and said––do you think you can make THAT? And she said "Yes!" and practically raced me to the saddle and up to the second summit. Britt––I KNOW you will make it. After all, you talked me up my first summit.
apasquel	Awesome 5/10/2015 9:22am great job out there...looks like it was a good day. Safe day. Phillipians 4 is a great one.
BostonBD	Excellent Report Britt! 5/10/2015 9:22am This is on my to do list this Spring. Was hoping for the road to melt out some to save mileage. Great perseverance by all! Super sunrise shot and I’ll be praying for you as well.
gunnison_garrett14	Nice! 5/10/2015 9:22am Nice trip report! Very enjoyable read!
Monster5	Awesome indeed 5/11/2015 8:55pm Great work powering through with a team. Those conditions can be incredibly draining. Stay positive.

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