Peak(s):  Haleakala Mountain - 10,023 feet
Post Date:  08/22/2013
Modified:  12/14/2013
Date Climbed:   12/29/2012
Posted By:  kimo

 Ka la i ka Mauli Ola: Haleakala Mountain, From Sea to Summit   

Ka la i ka Mauli Ola. Translation: The sun at the source of life.

Ka la i ka Mauli Ola: Haleakala Mountain, From Sea to Summit

Haleakala Mountain is an enormous dormant shield volcano on the Hawaiian island of Maui. It is one of the largest volcanos on the planet. It rises from the depths of the Pacific Ocean to a towering height of 10,023 feet. The entire mountain stands over 29,000 feet tall if measured from its base on the ocean floor. Haleakala is the high point of Maui, the fifth highest ranked summit in the Hawaiian Islands, and the 85th most prominent peak in the world.

The mountain holds great significance in Hawaiian culture. The demigod Maui created the Hawaiian Islands when he tricked his brothers to paddle harder after he caught the ocean floor with his fish hook. Maui then climbed on top of Haleakala to snare the sun and slow it down. Caught, the sun begged for release from Maui’s trap. The captor and captive came to an agreement: Days would be long in summer and short in winter. From then on the giant mountain became known as Haleakala, or the House of the Sun.


A distinctive geological feature of the mountain is massive Haleakala Crater. The crater is not a volcanic crater, but a huge erosional valley carved by wind and water. Scientists believe the head walls of two erosional valleys, one from the north and one from the south, merged at the top of the volcano. Sometime later, volcanic cones erupted from the valley floor, and today, the huge depression resembles a true volcanic crater.

Every year, thousands of visitors drive the paved road to the top of Pu'u Ula'ula, or Red Hill, as the summit of Haleakala Mountain is known. At over ten thousand feet of elevation, it is a remarkable experience for many visitors.

The much-traveled summit road sweeps back and forth past blind turns and steep dropoffs.

For those looking for the road less traveled, the park offers a special treat: A sublime twenty-mile sea-to-summit hike that climbs to 10,023 feet of elevation. The route is shown in red on the map below.


A sea-to-summit hike of Haleakala presents a logistical challenge. The start point for the hike is the small village of Kaupo on the south coast of Maui. It's a place pinned to the ragged edge of the map. If the Earth was flat, Kaupo would sit at the precipice, ready to slip quietly into the abyss.

Kaupo means “night landing place", presumably in reference to canoe travel, once so important to the lives of area residents. Automobiles have replaced the canoes, and today the rough and tumble Piilani Highway runs through the village, connecting Kaupo with modern towns far to the east and west. But calling this rough road a "highway" is a misnomer. Traveling the road from either direction is a daring adventure in its own right. The broken pavement twists and turns along forests, clouds, and cliffs. Rain is a frequent companion.

It's easy to see why ancient Hawaiians considered Kaupo as wahipana, or "special place." Thousands of Hawaiians once lived in the flourishing district. The Europeans arrived in 1778 and now the area is one of the most remote areas in the state of Hawaii.

Kaupo aloha 'aina. For the love of the land.

Out here, mail is one of few attachments to the outside world.

Last-chance supplies might be found at the Kaupo General Store. Hours may vary.

The Kaupo Ranch cares for 1800 head of grass fed cattle on the southern slope of Haleakala. The ranch uses controlled grazing techniques to keep animals and pastures healthy.

The village of Kaupo can be seen far below. The ranch spans from the sea to the national park boundary at 3800 feet. The ranch allows hikers to access the national park on a marked trail that crosses over the ranch.

Our plan: to park in Kaupo and hike forty miles in four distinct sections over three days, with two nights of tent camping in wet and wild Paliku. We end up taking four days to complete the forty mile adventure. The map of our route, broken down by day, is shown below.


Preface: Ua mau ke ea o ka 'aina i ka pono.

Translation: The life of the land is preserved in righteousness. (The State Motto of Hawaii)

Chasing 'da sun: we arrive in Hawaii a few days before Christmas.


It is good to be home.


Way of life.


The Hana Highway twists and turns through the east Maui rainforest on our way home to Keanae.


The small village of Keanae is perched at the edge of the mighty Pacific.


We enter the land of the waters of Kane. In Hawaiian mythology, Kane is considered the highest of the four major Hawaiian deities.

Kane gives the water and the water brings life.

Welcome home, Hawaii style.


The next morning we enjoy a quiet stroll through the sleepy village. We stop by the old coral church to give our aloha to my grandfather who is buried there.


The fine line between worlds.


I am small.


Plumeria: the most beautiful flower.


Of the land.


Of the gods.

Kids, big and small, love the Hana skate park.


The joys of Christmas.

For the first few days we enjoy our time with friends and family, while doing our best to ignore Haleakala. On the day after Christmas, we get our first good look at the mountain from the Wailua Valley wayside. Lush Keanae Valley rises toward Ko'olau Gap, which is one of two large openings in the walls of Haleakala Crater (the other opening is Kaupo Gap, which we will use to enter the crater). Long cascading waterfalls plummet from precipitous cliffs deep in the valley. We are inspired by what we see and feel. It is time to climb the mountain.


With hugs and kisses and a hui ho! we leave Keanae by the twisty road, heading toward Hana, my favorite town in all the world. It's easy to be lazy there, to sleep until noon and feel no guilt. Bird songs ride in on the ocean breeze and create a dreamy mood conducive for doing absolutely nothing. Hana is the meaning of vacation, although, ironically, the Hawaiian word hana translates to "work".

A friend of the family loans us his studio cottage in Hana for a week as he travels elsewhere. It's the perfect base camp for us. We ready our hiking gear and load our backpacks as the sweet songs of Israel Kamakawiwo'ole play on the stereo. Everything has fallen right into place. And so now, before we go and enter the wahipana, please read and remember the Hawai’ian protocol for sacred places:

E Ui No Ka ‘Ae
E Mahalo Aku
E Komo Me Ka Hoano
I ka hele aku, e ho’oma’amau I ka wahi.

Ask Permission,
Give Thanks,
Enter With Reverence,
When you leave, return it as you found it.

Take it home, Bruddah Iz...

Day One: Ola i ke ahe lau makani.

Translation: Life is in a gentle breath of wind.

Date: December 27, 2012
Mileage: 4 miles roundtrip
Vertical gain: 900 feet

From the trailhead to the sea and back. The day's hike is shown in blue on the map.

The next morning we are slow to start, and so is the truck. The ignition turns over lazily and the truck stumbles to life. We make the brief but twisty drive from Hana to the park's Kipahulu Visitor Center in under an hour. In Kipahulu, the rangers issue a limited number of backcountry camping permits each day. No reservations are taken in advance. Just keep in mind the Kipahulu visitor center doesn't open until 9am. This is Hawaii - wats 'da rush? We complete the permit process and talk some story with the ranger. In Hawaii, family is everything, and as it turns out, the ranger knows my family. She tells us conditions in the crater are good and water is plentiful. We leave the visitor center with a warm sense of aloha. The "seven sacred pools" of Oheo are a short walk away.

I steer the truck toward Kaupo. After some exciting twists and turns we reach Kaupo village just before noon.

We drive up the quiet single-lane road leading to the trailhead. We reach a closure gate after a mile and park on a small grassy parcel near the national park sign. This is the Kaupo Trailhead, and there is not a soul in sight.

We lock the truck and begin to walk back down the road toward the ocean. We will lose nine hundred vertical feet over two miles.

We walk the quiet country lane for a mile before reaching the Piilani Highway in the center of the village. A tour bus filled with smiling visitors rolls by on its way to somewhere else. They wave and we wave back.

We turn and walk the road for another mile toward the east.

Famous Huialoha Church comes into view. Near here is an open gate, with an unmarked trail leading to Mokulau Beach below. The trail is on state land. The church is on private land. Heed the warnings.

We greet the ocean with open arms. The cool water feels good on hot feet. I feel fortunate and ask for safe passage with a quiet pule.

All too soon we leave the pleasures of the sea for our obnoxious truck parked two miles away. Clouds ebb and flow overhead. Our plan for today is to grab our overnight backpacks from the truck, hike up the arid south slope through Kaupo Gap, and establish camp at Paliku, more than seven miles and 6000 feet up the volcano.

The clouds retreat mysteriously and Kaupo Gap is revealed. We then feel some serious doubt. It's past 2pm. The hot midday sun in Kaupo has drained our energy. The thought of carrying a 30lb pack up the mountain at this time of day sounds like torture. Some plans just aren't meant to be. At the truck, we kick off our heavy boots and gladly step into slippahs.

In the church of Nature. We leave Kaupo with a smile, excited to return for an earlier start tomorrow. We make the 90-minute drive back to Hana for delicious food and a good night's sleep. On the way back to Hana, we stop at the Kipahulu ranger station to ammend our permit for the following two nights, which they kindly do.

Day Two: I ku ka makemake e hele mai, hele no me ka malo'elo'e.

Translation: If the wish to come arises, walk firmly.

Date: December 28, 2012
Mileage: 7.5 miles one-way
Vertical gain: 5400 feet

From the trailhead to our camp. The day's hike is shown in red on the map.

We wake early in Hana, before 4am. Our reward for rising early is a candy-colored sunrise from across the Pacific, as we drive the Piilani Highway to Kaupo.

We reach the trailhead by 8am. I park on the grass near the national park sign. Pay no attention to the mileage, as it seems measured by a crow. Walking, Paliku is 7 to 8 miles one-way, depending on how lost one becomes while crossing massive Kaupo Ranch.

The first gate to paradise: a cow pasture.

We enter Kaupo Ranch. The first few miles of trail cross ranch land on the way to the national park boundary at 3,800 feet of elevation.

The ranch is a maze of cattle trails and ATV roads. We follow the occasional trail sign as best we can, and we open and close a few gates along the way.

Tall grass hides the trail signs in some areas. We lose the trail and wander through the ranch before finding the trail again.

Road walking doesn't get any better than this.

The lonesome south shore of Maui.

The arid landscape suddenly turns lush. We approach the park boundary.

The last gate to paradise: the entrance to Haleakala National Park. It is the only national park that is fully enclosed by a perimeter fence designed to keep cattle, feral goats and pigs from entering.

These beautiful koa trees greet us with open arms. Protected within the boundaries of the park, the majestic trees thrive here.

We follow the trail under sprawling canopies of native koa. Declining koa forests across the state represent a last haven for threatened indigenous species.

We turn to look back at Kaupo far below. The silvery Pacific shimmers beneath winter's south sun.

The trail continues to climb.

As we ascend, the temperature drops. It's a pleasant break from the scorching sun on the Kaupo ranch.

Ama'u, a species of fern endemic to the Hawaiian Islands.

The mossy trail steepens as we approach Paliku.

Mountains in cloud.

We reach the crest of Kaupo Gap. The high cliffs above Paliku take center stage. After seven miles of strenuous hiking, we have arrived.

Don't trust the signs. The sign at the start said 5.5 miles to Paliku. This one says 6.8 back to the trailhead, and we are still .2 miles from Paliku. I'd put money on 7.5 miles being just about right.

The clouds vanish like a phantom soon after our arrival. We pitch our tent in the cool evening light, just before sun down.

The sun sets on the crater rim.

End of days.

We enjoy a peaceful night's sleep under the light of a full moon.

Day Three: Mai ka l hiki a ka l kau.

Translation: From the sun's arrival to the sun's rest.

Date: December 29, 2012
Mileage: 21 miles roundtrip
Vertical gain: 3700 feet

From our camp to the summit and back. The day's hike is shown in yellow on the map.

The sun chases the moon. We emerge from the tent into the cool, calm crater. The stillness is remarkable.

It's 7:30am. Our late start assures we will return after dark. We head toward the park road.

We aren't the first and won't be the last.

The sun rises over Kuiki Peak. The peak, at 7553 ft, is the eastern most point on the crater rim.

We have entered the House of the Sun. In the distance, the prominent volcanoes of the Big Island rise above the clouds.

It is all a bit surreal.

We've come two miles. Red Hill, the summit of Haleakala, can be seen on the distant skyline.

The Haleakala silversword. This endemic plant, once on the verge of extinction, is a beloved hallmark of Haleakala National Park.

We follow the sinuous Halemau'u Trail past towering cinder cones.

Kawilinau, also known as the Bottomless Pit, is a black vent tube ten feet in diameter and of unknown depth. Debris chokes the opening sixty feet down. At rear, majestic Hanakauhi Peak rises prominently into winter's blue sky.

The Haleakala summit house is can be seen on a small hill at the top-center of the photo. Five miles and 3,000 feet of vertical separate us from the summit. We leave the Halemau'u Trail and follow the cutoff toward the ultra-popular Sliding Sands Trail, which is the trail we will use to reach the summit.

The Sliding Sands Trail provides remarkable access to beautiful gardens of native silverswords.

Up to the sun.

The view back into the crater. Massive Hanakauhi Peak fills the skyline. After a remarkably lonesome hike, we start seeing more and more people. We are two miles from the summit.

Haleakala is one of the most endangered parks within the national park system. Numerous threatened animal and plant species make Haleakala their home.

We cross an impressive slope of multi-colored cinder. We have walked ten miles. The summit is close.

We look north toward the spur trail to Kalua o Ka Oo cinder cone. Behind is Koolua Gap, one of two large gaps in the crater wall. Out below the clouds is the village of Keanae and the vast Pacific Ocean.

The summit house comes into view.

From where we came. Paliku is below the cliffs at the very back of the crater, and a world away.


And then suddenly...what the..? The visitor center is stacked with vehicles.

A human-kind house of the Sun.

We've been talking about cheeseburgers for the last five miles. We ate nearly all our food for the day on the way up. We are desperate to search the visitor center shelves for something, anything, but preferably a burger. Our search starts poorly: the sign on the wall outside said "No Food Sold Here". Well...they lied. We procure 2 bags of macadamia nuts and two Hawaiian dark chocolate bars - a suitable burger replacement for sure. We stop at the picture window on the way out the door. Suddenly I feel like a fish in a fishbowl. I close my eyes and step into the light.

We get the hell out of dodge and head straight for the summit house on Red Hill, about a half mile away. Shiny Science City lurks in the back.

The summit house seen from the near empty parking lot. Where is everyone? I'm guessing most people stop at the lower visitor center and call it good. They never reach the summit which is a short half-mile drive away.

Walk? We race to the top. She wins.

Anna poses next to an empty summit house. It's 2:53pm. We've hiked in the sun for hours. The quiet building provides much-needed relief.

There is something strangely Kubrickian about all this.

Cheeseburgers in paradise.

In the House of the Sun.

The sun is well into its downward arc. We shoulder our packs and head down the road toward the Sliding Sands trail.

We begin our descent into the crater. The red cinder simmers in the warm light of late-day sun.


The shadows turn long. The lush paradise of Paliku can be across the crater.

Do silverswords dream of electric sheep?

Paliku - six miles? This sign could be right.

Where time is measured by the millennia.

We hike into the night with our headlamps on low. The trail flows like a sanguine creek past shadowy ridges of black lava rock. No menace lurks in the dark here, and my mind runs carefree. Paliku is quiet and still when we arrive after 9pm.

Mission accomplished. I crack open a certified well-earned beverage and we celebrate our successful trip. It's not long before exhaustion takes hold and we are asleep.

Who killed Mr. Moonlight? Waves of rain wash over the tent throughout the night and into the next morning.

Day Four: Hahai no ka ua i ka ulula'au.

Translation: The rain follows after the forest.

Date: December 30, 2012
Mileage: 7.5 miles one-way
Vertical gain: None

From our camp to the trailhead. The day's hike is shown in red on the map.

We lay in the tent through the morning and listen to nature's most beautiful rain songs.

The rain will outlast us here - it is time to go home. We break down the tent and stuff the seeping wet mess into a pack.

Water, straight from the source. Before leaving Paliku, we take a few minutes to filter from the rainwater catchment tank.

We descend into cloud.

Hot and dry Kaupo seems a world away.

The old timers say, "Hahai no ka ua i ka ulula'au," or the rain follows after the forest.

The trail plays hide and seek through the lush Hawaiian flora.

We have found Heaven on Earth.

We've enjoyed three days of carefree bliss in the park. We hesitate to open the gate.

Sweet smile.

Where the sky mixes with sea.

Should we stay or should we go?

Kaupo Gap receives around 60 inches of rain a year. The rain remains a constant companion on our descent.

We open the last gate with bittersweet relief.

We have walked in the rain for hours. We drop our seeping backpacks into the back of the truck. Mud-covered boots and waterlogged clothing soon follow on top. We are now dry, warm, and blissfully content. We start the truck and steer it down paradise lane.

Streams swell with rain and waterfalls pour into the ocean.

Wailua Falls plummets nearly 200 feet from a cliff beside the road near Kipahulu. Because of easy access, visitors usually crowd the pools at the bottom and that can make the photography difficult. On this rainy day no one was stopping, and so I did.

The last road to Paradise.

We reach Hana on a misty afternoon. We unload wet gear and then shower, excited for our reward: dinner and drink on the lanai of the Paniolo Lounge.

It is an edacious bookend to four days of adventure. We retire to our relaxing cottage, our souls fulfilled in every way imaginable.

Afterword: Ho'ola'i na manu i ke aheahe.

Translation: The birds poise quietly in the gentle breezes.

The New Year is just a day away and Hana knows how to celebrate.

Fireworks are fleeting. Flowers - now they last a while.

We see ourselves reflected in the land.

Nature's hourglass pours out. Our time on Maui is nearing an end.

Eat well, live well: fresh Mahi tacos from the Paia fish market.

One way in, one way out: the Hana Highway.

With hugs and kisses, we say goodbye to family and board a plane to Honolulu.

The flight to Honolulu goes quick and easy. In Honolulu, we rent a fast car, enjoy a delicious dinner, and savor a great view of Waikiki from our hotel room. The charms of the city comes on strong and we can't avoid the attraction. We have lived two weeks in blissful naivety. Tomorrow, we will get on a plane and leave this paradise for our stateside reality.

The haul.

Reflections of future past.

I am comfortably reclined with a window view. We may be leaving Hawaii, but Hawaii is a state of mind. I put the song "Hawaii '78" on the player. As we fly high above the Great Pacific, the spiritual anthem of protest and love reminds me of the transient nature of life. I wipe away a tear and close my eyes...

The journey and the summit are inseparable, they live within each other, they are one. I have included numerous photos that portray that relationship between mountain and life because I could not separate the stories. This report has been a labor of love to create, as it has evolved through numerous iterations and rewrites over the past 8 months. At first, it was known around our home as simply "the trip report". Of late, it's been called my "Moby Dick". After laboring over photos and captions for months, the dynamic shifted to a burden. I will never feel this story is complete, but it was time to cut the cord.

I tried my best to capture the beauty of Hawaii and create a sense of adventure, but after giving it one last read, I'm now convinced that the real beauty of this place must be experienced first-hand. No matter how much effort I put into making this trip report, I can do nothing to recreate the experience of being there. If I succeed in inspiring just one person to pack their bags and visit this very special place, then every minute I spent laboring over the details is worth it. Thank you for reading. Malama o ka ʻAina.



  • Comments or Questions

Don't know where to begin...     08/22/2013 15:30
Kimo, simply incredible. I've said it many times, you truly have a gift my friend. Delicious scenery and food. Thanks so much!

and ”wats 'da rush”... that explains a lot.


Work of art     08/22/2013 15:45
Not just the pictures, but the TR as well. Lyrical and informative is a hard balance to achieve but you did it. I would delightfully read a Kimo report on a sand hill in Nebraska.


Amazing....     08/22/2013 15:52
One of the best half hours of my life was just spent reading this. Can't wait to go back to Hawaii for a visit. Thanks, Kimo for posting this.


It is all sort of surreal ...     08/22/2013 16:01
I am overcome ... this is such a powerfully special trip report. I feel as if you have transported me on an adventure without even leaving my chair. The photos carry so much color and texture and emotion and fragrance. The history of your homeland has great depth and you tell it well. I have heard that version of ”Somewhere Over the Rainbow” many times ... thank you for putting a face to that voice. I will close with this ... you have one photo caption that ends with ”she wins”. I would dare say, my friend, that because of you and your willingness to share your gift, we all win. Happy trails to you both!

Dave B

Bittersweet     08/22/2013 16:09
Having had a rather unpleasant experience living in Hawaii several years ago the two times I have returned there have been met with mixed emotions. It's such a beautiful place but one that is sullied for me. However, your trip report absolutely highlights everything that is beautiful and pure about those islands. I very much enjoyed reading this report.

Thank you.


Thanks so much for this...     08/22/2013 16:12
I lived in Lahaina for awhile and Haleakala was my sanctuary. I would spend days at a time exploring the crater, and did this exact hike one weekend. Your excellent report was a serious trip down memory lane. Your reflections and writing conjure the whole experience for me, so thanks.


ahhhhhhhh.....     08/22/2013 16:27
This report really makes me miss family on the Big Island. Thanks for taking me to my ”happy place”


Thanks Kimo!     08/22/2013 16:30
This is a marvelous trip report on an exquisite place. It really brought me back there and then some!


Awesome!!!     08/22/2013 17:23
I went to the big island in May for 2 weeks for a field research class with school where we studied the biology and geology of the big island. It was my first time to Hawaii and our instructors really aided us in experiencing Hawaii on a different level (we saw so much). We went to the top of Mauna Kea and I was blown away. This is also how I met my now boyfriend. We both are planing a trip back to Hawaii (maybe Maui after reading this) in December. Amazing photos!!!


Wow     08/22/2013 18:01
Such a quality report and photos! Thank you.

That version of Somewhere Over The Rainbow is one of my favorites.


I loved.....     08/22/2013 18:35
Everything about this post!!! I am going to read it again just for the hell of it! Thanks for sharing!


Beautiful...     08/22/2013 19:31
The pictures, the words, the story...all of it! Thanks for sharing.

Chicago Transplant

Stunning!     08/22/2013 23:15
Just plain stunning, and a route I have actually wanted to do for a long time. I had a friend that was getting married in Maui way back in '03, and had I been able to secure the vacation time I was hoping to do this circuit, but alas I wasn't even able to get the time off for the wedding, let alone an adventure like this one. Some day, some day...


Wow...     08/22/2013 23:32
Superlative trip's really a work of art. After reading this, I can't bring myself to just drive to the top of Haleakala whenever I make it out there; I'll be reaching the summit by this trail!


Unbelievable     08/22/2013 23:46
This is a masterpiece kimo. I would pay $1 to read this again, and $1 anytime after that. Belongs in Outside Magazine's December issue. Your writing skills and photography skills are amazing on their own, but the combo of the two is really something special. Thank you for the read. Hope you have more adventures planned for the near future so I can read the report!


Paradise     08/22/2013 23:52
I was there in May and reading your report made me relive it, thanks


What an incredible journey!     08/23/2013 02:16
Thanks for sharing this journey with us all! You have an amazing talent and we are all blessed by it!


Incredible     08/23/2013 02:31
Thanks for letting me escape the grind for a few minutes while reading this.


This trip report     08/23/2013 04:14
I love it. Thanks for your efforts to bring it to us with love.


Love it!!     08/23/2013 16:37
What a great trip.


Incredible Shots!     08/23/2013 20:12
And what a cool adventure. I hope I get to do this someday! Thanks for posting Kimo.

P.s. That night tent shot looks like it should be on the cover of the REI catalog! Great photos, again.


Oh man     08/25/2013 04:44
This is fantastic. Pictures, words, thoughts, and all. Time to convince my sugar momma to take me to Hawaii. Nice meeting you this weekend.


Best     08/25/2013 05:37
Best trip report I've read. Incredible photos.

Is it Nat Geo, or just Kimo?

Thank you for taking us with you on a beautiful trip.

PS... Me and a friend rode our bikes up Haleakala 23 years ago. I was there for a week. My hair went permanent afro. I loved the airport on Maui back then. More air than port.


Oh, great.     08/25/2013 14:43
Now Bertina says she wants to go back to Hawaii. I was hoping to never have to return to that hideous wasteland. Thanks a lot.


Dude     08/25/2013 15:10
This TR is seriously unreal...I find myself coming back again and again. You have done your destination justice Kimo.


Bill Middlebrook is angry     08/28/2013 22:38
He had to buy a new server solely to hold all the pics from the TR.


Incredible     08/29/2013 16:02
TR. I've always wanted to get to Hawaii, but now I want to hike there. Thanks for your effort on this, Kimo. Writing, photography and advanture all came together perfectly here!

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