Windom Peak

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 5/15/2025, By: AlpineSplit
Info: Still plenty of good riding to be had on Windom, the Widowmaker is getting a little thin but not bad. It did not warm up until very late in the day. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 12/23/2024, By: paulbarish
Info: *Copy and pasted from my post in sunlight peak* Very safe but physically brutal! Took the train to Cascade Wye (much better than hiking from purgatory like I did for Eolus a few winter ago). Expected to be on skis out of the gate but ended up walking in approach shoes until shortly after needle creek when I could FINALLY switch to skinning! Luckily there were plenty of down trees blocking the trail so lots of transitions haha. Camped at 11k. Many running water sources available just above. At least 3 good ones within 20 of the trail. The trail is mixed snow and rock until Twin Lakes where it was hard packed all the way until 13k where you turn onto the south face of sunlight. Then it needed flotation but skied like a sheet of ice (over to Windom). Skinning this section was heinous and Ski crampons would have been awesome. Upper mountain had post holing that could be avoided with extra scrambling. Overall the snow was soft and not very supportive. Summit block was tricky in ski boots, but it was my first time so maybe I could have done it an easier way . I skied from approximately 13700 over to Windom trying to lose as little vert as possible, then stashed skis and took a Rocky rib on the north face to link with the ridge. I skied from 13400 to twin lakes easily then on and off skis until the prominent switchback in the trail around 11800. I took skis on and off probably 30 times in the next few miles and I skied through a lot of stuff that people who care about their skis wouldnt have! Then proceeded to pack up camp and go all the way back to Cascade Wye to catch the train. Overall, I think snowshoes would have been easier and saved a lot of energy, probably in the end faster. More snow will help a lot. Yesterday was a 22.5 hour day and I suffered more than I expected! I hope this helps someone. Happy solstice!!! Pics on the sunlight page 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 9/28/2024, By: null_pointer
Info: Main route has snow. I was able to avoid it to 13,700 feet, but it becomes very heard to avoid after that. If you stick to the climbers route above this...you will be crossing snow. Snow is 2-4 inches deep. It was soft and wet in the afternoon, which made the wet shoes and rock combination dangerous. I followed the ridgeline proper back down to about 13,700 which avoids 95% of the snow. I would not attempt this after an overnight freeze. Just way too much risk of a fall. There is also snow lower near as you attempt to gain the ridge, but you can just traverse below this. See pics. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 9/28/2024, By: null_pointer
Info: Main route has snow. I was able to avoid it to 13,700 feet, but it becomes very heard to avoid after that. If you stick to the climbers route above this...you will be crossing snow. Snow is 2-4 inches deep. It was soft and wet in the afternoon, which made the wet shoes and rock combination dangerous. I followed the ridgeline proper back down to about 13,700 which avoids 95% of the snow. I would not attempt this after an overnight freeze. Just way too much risk of a fall. There is also snow lower near as you attempt to gain the ridge, but you can just traverse below this. See pics. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 8/10/2024, By: jalexander
Info: Summited Windom with my 11 year old daughter on 7/31, great conditions. Has been raining some recently but our few days on the trail were perfect. We hiked off the train. Many folks grabbing all 4 in Chicago Basin on the same day, we just did Windom. Trail on Windom near the top is a little hard to find. I was "off" more than "on" trail in the last 1/2 mile, but there are many ways to scramble to the top. All Trails is great, but not spot on near summit. Cairns mark the whole way, you can see them much better on the way down. Enough cell service on top to call and check in with my wife. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/15/2024, By: caesarsalad
Info: A couple small snowfields to cross just before the standard Sunlight/Windom split. I did Windom on 7/14 in the early morning (crossing snowfields before sunrise), and they were slick and difficult to cross quickly. Due to lots of rain on the 13ths, the footsteps in them weren't super helpful. Would have been nice to have spikes for those 5 minutes. On the way back, I took the upper route which bypassed the sloped snowfields, and the incoming sun seemed to be quickly softening them. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/18/2024, By: jacobslaton
Info: Climbed Sunlight and Windom on July 12. Conditions were great. Very little snow other than one small patch not far from twin lakes. No traction needed. The approach to the Sunlight ridge was dusty and loose, but not terrible. On Windom, we saw several groups descending via one of the gullys on the east side, which they said they regretted once they were down due to loose rocks and overall steepness. Some cairns in that area likely need to be demolished. The standard route on the ridge is solid and fairly easy to navigate with good cairns throughout. The lakes serve as a good water source, but there is also a trickle of snowmelt that runs through the valley between Sunlight and Windom where you can refill bottles if needed. Below the lakes, water is plentiful and easy to access. In the basin, mosquitos and biting flies were bad so be prepared for those. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/1/2024, By: tlinkus
Info: Most snow of all the peaks, that being said, we were able to summit without crampons, ice axe, or spikes. Can either go straight up lower snowfields to saddle or navigate through snow-free rocky areas. Only one real snowfield up high that was probably about 10ft and could be bypassed with a little scrambling. Overall would recommend spikes if not comfortable crossing snow, but definitely not mandatory. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 10/23/2023, By: awestra
Info: Windom, Eolus / N Eolus, Sunlight from Purgatory Flats On 10/22, windom had snow between rocks on north slope (see pic). Gaiters would've been nice but managed by rock-hopping. Sunlight standard route was dry. Eolus had only a couple tiny spots of snow, did not need traction 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/26/2023, By: JasonCrane
Info: Note - I summited Sunlight & wasn't able to grab Windom. The north face of Windom has a decent amount of snow below the West Ridge route. Those gullies look to be filled in for the season. From a distance, if you view Windom from Eolus, the south face is a stark contrast of dry rock versus the snowy north face. Looks like a line drawn along the ridge separating the two. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/24/2023, By: andlours
Info: Snow started above 13k near the climb to the saddle. A lot of it could be avoided with rock hopping, but micro spikes were really helpful near the summit. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/3/2023, By: Briere
Info: Full summer conditions still; one very minor snow crossing by the lake but no traction or anything is needed. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/3/2023, By: bryanf
Info: Met up with the West Ridge route at the saddle between Windom and Peak 18, after shortcutting laterally across the basin from the bottom of the Sunlight chute. From this point up, the route is straightforward and easy until the notch. From the notch onwards, you must be very careful with route-finding. I think more careful than the class dictates, as the ridge is actually quite thin and it's easy to get too low. On the way down, we scrambled down the boulder field of the main route to meet up with the Sunlight-Windom fork. This section was mixed thin scree and boulders. No snow on this route depending on how you make your way from the fork to the saddle. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 8/19/2023, By: Snommed1
Info: Windom/Sunlight...90% summer conditions. One snowfield to cross (~50yd, see picture) with no easy go-around. If this is still frozen solid from overnight, can be a sketchy traverse. Easy crossing once the snow has softened. Mosquitoes have abated in Chicago Basin. None to speak of. Not a lot of Needle Creek water access points up to Chicago Basin if you had planned to filter water along the way. Wear sunscreen. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 7/26/2023, By: nrobsaihttam
Info: Entered Sunday, left Tuesday 7/25. Awesome hike, bugs were tolerable in the basin. No need for spikes on the couple hundred feet of snow patches for Windom/Sunlight if you just use your hiking poles and follow footprints. About 20-something people went into the basin each day. Campsites weren't too hard to find. One of the coolest 14er experiences yet.