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Torreys Peak

Peak Condition Updates  
2/11/2012
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 2/20/2012, By: ccmhockey
Info: Very windblown, huge cornices, and packed down quite nice. Crampons and axes definitely required, and no floatation required. 
1/30/2012
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 1/30/2012, By: Vermont Mike
Info: Went up Cupid and Grizzly from Loveland Pass today. The west ridge up Torreys looks almost completely windswept at the moment. Likely no gear needed, although I‘m sure an ax would be a good idea. Nothing except normal winter wind/cold gear needed to get up to Grizzly, but I didn‘t go further to check out the Grizzly/Torreys saddle. I used gaiters but probably didn‘t even need them. I can provide photos on request. 
1
1/2/2012
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 1/3/2012, By: jscampoli
Info: I had to park all the way at the winter trailhead, however if you have snow tires you can make it further. There were multiple vehicles all the way up to the barn. As for the route itself, did the ridge in mountaineering boots without crampons. Descended via the saddle trial between Grays and Torres, used crampons because the snow was extremely hard and icy in places, though you could do it with less and only end up on your butt a few times. Brought snowshoes, didn‘t even think about using them. 
12/17/2011
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 12/18/2011, By: kushrocks
Info: With a decent 4 wheel drive car you can get about 1.8 miles up the trailhead. I made the bad decision to go another.3 miles past that into deeper snow and ended up getting stuck on the way out. Thank you to the two skiers who helped dig us out. Where I was stuck was 2.1 miles up the road or about .9 miles from the summer trailhead . . . Not recommended. The trail to branch off to Kelso is packed down and easy to follow. Do not waist time and energy bringing snowshoes they were not needed at all. Microspikes worked great here. It was an absolute stunning day. Once on the ridge we started and probably did the first 15 minutes with Microspikes but when we had to traverse a steep snow bank we knew it was time to switch to crampons. The route was icy in spots but for the most part crampons did great. The knife edge was easy to cross with the snow but just after that the white rock section was a little hairy because it was somewhat icy. Once on the summit of Torreys we switched back to microspikes which were great up Grays and all the way back to the car by the standard route. If your looking to ski this route it looks like it will be a while before conditions improve enough for good skiing. Above 12,000 the snow is mostly windblown and not very deep. You may get about 1.5 miles up from the summer trailhead so roughly a quarter mile before the turn off to Kelso Ridge and then there wont really be anything skiable. 4th time up Kelso Ridge and each time I seem to enjoy it more and more. It was great hiking with James as well as Dave and friends. 
12/7/2011
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 12/8/2011, By: markf
Info: started from the bottom of the road. Someone had driven up to the lower edge of the private property very recently, but I would want 4WD and VERY good tires for this. I carried snowshoes but only used them for a short stretch, not sure if the energy saved using them equaled the effort to haul them around, take them off, put them on. Microspikes and light hiking boots were perfect for the rest of the trip. 
11/11/2011
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 11/11/2011, By: scottmoser
Info: Reached summer trailhead in 15 or 20 minutes from highway in a Cherokee with good tires. Others stopped lower down. Had snowshoes but left them in the car and never wanted them. Used crampons only very briefly for hardpack on trail, probably advisable, but you could still do without. 
10/15/2011
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 10/15/2011, By: bf31415
Info: AlpineGoat‘s conditions from 10/14 still applicable for Grays (traction as in microspikes very helpful for east and ridge trails). Did Torrey as well and microspikes useful for a portion of the traverse (icey crust for a stretch). I left my spikes and poles at the saddle and hiked to the top of Torreys with just my winter boots. Snow only on the top 1/3rd of the saddle->summit of Torreys and didn‘t need any supplemental traction. Wind was a slight annoyance but otherwise great conditions. 
9/24/2011
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 9/28/2011, By: Short
Info: There is a little bit of snow/ice on the buttress just after the knife edge. I had nothing but boots and was fine. Grays/Torreys Standard Bakerville trail was packed snow that was turning into ice. This was much more slippery than any of Kelso. 
9/15/2011
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 9/17/2011, By: captainp
Info: Thursday, 15 Sept., Plenty of new snow falling above 12,000‘. There was anywhere from 6-18 inches on the ground up high and some glazing on the steep parts of the ridge. Crampons weren‘t necessary, but an ice axe would be prudent. Sorry no pictures, it was snowing and blowing too much to risk my camera. 
9/11/2011
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 9/12/2011, By: kushrocks
Info: The ridge was awesome. Dry about 3/4 of the way up. The last 1/4 there was snow in spots but the knife edge was dry. The only tricky spot was just past the knife edge where it was iced over in a few spots. BRING MICROSPIKES!!! They were aweseome and we had zero problem with footing going up and down. We went over and tagged Greys after and it was almost comical how many people were commenting on how they should have brough microspikes. People were slipping and falling all over the place. I was suprised with the hundreds of people who were unprepared and didnt bring any sort of traction or poles while wearing tennis shoes on snow and ice. FYI Kelso Ridge is Awesome 
7/23/2011
Route: Kelso Ridge
Posted On: 7/25/2011, By: metalmountain
Info: We climbed Kelso Ridge (also snagged Kelso Mountain) up to Torrey‘s. It is basically completely snow free accept for one section leading to the knife edge, which was mentioned in a previous trip report. It is on the south side of the tower leading to the knife edge, and you would definitely want an axe to cross it. We went more or less up the east/northeast side of the tower which required some exposed class 3+ type moves, but it seemed relatively solid and made for some fun climbing. Just watch out, a slip on the snowfield or a fall off the snow free side both could have bad results. If anyone has questions just shoot me a PM. 
7/15/2011
Route: Dead Dog Couloir
Posted On: 7/15/2011, By: caverdude
Info: Climbed the Dog today. Snow is very hard and crampons/ice axe very necessary. Get an early start!! The rockfall shooting gallery started at 6am. I started hiking just before 4am and stopped at the talus slope in the far right of the overview photo. Climbing commenced at 5:30am and there is lots of noticeable rockfall on the slope, including some really big scary rocks. I stayed to the right of the obvious runnel. There are many steps starting about 1/2 way up so you can climb faster the higher you are. I finished before 7am and really don‘t recommend climbing later than that due to all the rockfall I could hear below me. The worst rockfall section is from about 13,100 to 13,600ft. I don‘t ski or snowboard, but that runnel in the middle coupled with the very icy snow would make life difficult. The snow is continuous all the way to the top and it‘s very hard, so it‘s really in nice shape, just need to start early to avoid the rockfall. 
7/12/2011
Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 7/13/2011, By: SLKRR
Info: Standard route is almost entirely free of snow on the lower sections. There are just a couple of small snowfields to cross and lots of wet and muddy ground. Several streams cut across the trail, and it is good (though probably not essential) to have waterproof boots. The trail over to the Grays-Torreys saddle cuts across a large snowfield. It is slushy and can be crossed without any special gear, but I found poles to be very helpful. Above the saddle, the ridge is entirely dry. Didn‘t climb Grays, but the switchbacks up the East Slopes appear completely dry as well. 
2
7/6/2011
Route: NW Face/Tuning Fork
Posted On: 7/10/2011, By: candymountain
Info: The road into Grizzly Gulch road is free of snow past the Northwest face of Torreys. There was one giant mud hole that I did not want to take the Tacoma through. Looks like someone else had to get pulled out. Parked here and walked maybe 10 minutes uphill to stream crossing into couloir. Continuos snow from near the bottom to maybe 150 vertical feet from summit. Snow was good if you stay skier left all the way down. Started a few point release wet slides that moved at a snail's pace. 2 inches deep at most. Great Day even though we started late, about 0630. 
7/1/2011
Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 7/1/2011, By: pklotzbach
Info: Just wondering if anyone has information on the snow conditions on the West Ridge route to Torreys/Grays from Loveland Pass. I‘m thinking of running/hiking that on Sunday. I know the East slopes route still has a significant amount of snow, and figure that there may be snow on the N/E sides of the ridge, but am hoping/thinking that the ridge itself and/or the S/W sides of the ridge may be relatively snow-free by now, given normal snow accumulation patterns. Thanks for any info anyone can provide. Posted for dant262@yahoo.com